Pop from rear wheel.
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Red93stang
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Pics of the hub area? Did you buy the bike new? Does it look like its spun a bearing in the past?
buellxb9rs
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Maybe yours won't be like the recent bike I purchased. find out the real wheel bearing on the right side was shot,but the bearing fell right out because it had worn through the metal making the bearing hole larger. Had to get a new wheel. Most likely that's your problem but you may get lucky and that not be the cause. Good luck though
buellxb9rs
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It is supposed to be pressed in not loose
Red93stang
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Yup like xb9rs said above, time for a new wheel.
The inside of the wheel is kinda pitted. I went out and cleaned it up a bit and the bearing just spins around. Dude the fork springs were two different sizes now the I need a new wheel. God, I haven't checked the valves yet. This 1125 is being a pain in the ass. No wonder the po got rid of it. Ill baby her up and get her fixed though.
buellxb9rs
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Did you get a good deal on it? He may have know what he was doing
thumpin1203
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You CAN get a second life out of your wheel if you want.. take and clean-up the bore with 320 grit, then take a punch and stagger-dimple the inner bore around it's circumference.. then bed-in a new Black-seal 6006 2RS1 bearing with j-b weld, let it set overnight and torque the axle to only 30 ft/lbs upon reassembly. (HD's recommended 50 ft/lbs is too high, inducing axial loading, generating core heat and shortening the service life of the bearing IMHO)
It's a low buck fix, and the "jury is out" as to how long it will last.. however, with that said, I did it to one of the first buells I owned many years ago and the fix lasted 5,500+ miles, (up until the day I sold it, so likely many more)
It's a low buck fix, and the "jury is out" as to how long it will last.. however, with that said, I did it to one of the first buells I owned many years ago and the fix lasted 5,500+ miles, (up until the day I sold it, so likely many more)
I got the bike for 3,000. I would say I got a good deal. Ill check with Harley and see what just a rim costs. By the time I buy a wheel and have it painted I could buy a used or even new one(?) for the price of yours wolfo.? I'm kinda open to whatever at this point. Our first snow is comin in a couple days so ridin is over for a bit anyway. So what your sayin thumpin is that gluein the bearin in may work. I don't get how it loosened it self out like that?
buellxb9rs
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New wheel and bearings will be about $400 if you Hey the wheel thru lshd1.com and get all balls bearings
I would just peen the mating area of the bearing and wheel in the wheel with a sharp punch like thumpin said but get sleeve retainer green lock tight. That's a trick to keep machinery going I wouldnt concider a new wheel before trying this.good luck
go cytocis
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Interesting mix of "fix 'er right the first time" & "git 'er dun" solutions. Both have their merits. Arguments for the former approach are peace-of-mind that it'll work properly & safely for many miles without risk of bearing failure (which can have catastrophic consequences). On the other hand, if the clearance between the wheel & bearing isn’t too sloppy, you might shim and/or punch the recess to get a good enough fit that’ll be a whole lot cheaper than a new wheel.
I guess it really comes down to your own confidence & risk tolerance.
I guess it really comes down to your own confidence & risk tolerance.
I wouldn't peen it. You have no control of where the bearing ends up. It will most likely end up crooked and not square or in the same plane as the good bearing, and you are locating it on a very small area. When you install the axle you'll just straightening it up and oblong the hole and be back to where you were in a short period of time.
I have used shim stock the take up the difference. It worked, but you need a good calipers or inside mic to figure out what size shim you need. There needs to be .0005-.0007 press.
The only way to fix it properly is to machine the bad press area larger, press in a slug, and machine a new bearing bore.
I'm a machinist and have a rim that I'll be doing this to, when I get time. Which is getting harder to find now with snowmobile racing coming up fast.
Just my 2 cents
Matt
I have used shim stock the take up the difference. It worked, but you need a good calipers or inside mic to figure out what size shim you need. There needs to be .0005-.0007 press.
The only way to fix it properly is to machine the bad press area larger, press in a slug, and machine a new bearing bore.
I'm a machinist and have a rim that I'll be doing this to, when I get time. Which is getting harder to find now with snowmobile racing coming up fast.
Just my 2 cents
Matt
Not certain what is meant by peening. All good feedback. I am concerned that it may do it again with an 08 wheel. The 10 wheels have 3 bearings I guess to fix this problem. Aren't there plenty of other high performance machines that run just 2 bearings and don't have this problem or is this common? Seen a couple on ebay but am worried that they may be crap too. The 10 wheel is Villain Black, if I get a 10 wheel how am I gonna get Barricuda Blue paint?
thumpin1203
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All good, fellas 
.. yeah, my official advice is.. buy a new rim! that is exactly what I would do now, knowing the potential consequences of a less than perfect repair. HOWEVER, I did get many thousands of "hard use" miles out of the procedure I stated above.. there are many ways to "skin that cat", but the old Knurl and JB weld worked WELL in a pinch for me.. just sayin'.. lol
.. yeah, my official advice is.. buy a new rim! that is exactly what I would do now, knowing the potential consequences of a less than perfect repair. HOWEVER, I did get many thousands of "hard use" miles out of the procedure I stated above.. there are many ways to "skin that cat", but the old Knurl and JB weld worked WELL in a pinch for me.. just sayin'.. lolthumpin1203
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"I am concerned that it may do it again with an 08 wheel"
Whatever you get, don't torque the 'fricken axle to 50 ft/lbs, 30 ft/lbs is plenty!
@ 50 ft/lbs there are excessive axial stresses that heat-up the bearing and reduce the service life.. once water intrudes a worn bearings seal, it's the "kiss of death" for any longevity..
Been there, done that
ps.. oh yeah, always question HD and their particulars.. they didn't become the giant they are without an "extra profitable" service dept and it's related charges.. (catch my drift)
FUHD
Thump
Whatever you get, don't torque the 'fricken axle to 50 ft/lbs, 30 ft/lbs is plenty!
@ 50 ft/lbs there are excessive axial stresses that heat-up the bearing and reduce the service life.. once water intrudes a worn bearings seal, it's the "kiss of death" for any longevity..
Been there, done that
ps.. oh yeah, always question HD and their particulars.. they didn't become the giant they are without an "extra profitable" service dept and it's related charges.. (catch my drift)
FUHD
Thump
