Primary Oil Change?

[DevonG]

Hey guys I just got my 03 firebolt 9, I'm starting my first week of riding (already did breather mod and snorkle delete) and the guy has basically let the bike sit in the garage for over a year untouched.

So I changed the oil in my swing arm and it was really bad but I didn't change the oil in the primary. And my shifting isn't that smooth and finding neutral is hard, I just wanted to know if I can put the same mobile1 vtwin synthetic in my primary, I'm not even sure how to change it... I think I saw the drainplug by the shifter, if so where does the oil go in??

Thanks

 

[browland]

yes you can use the same oil. drain by the shifter and fill in the inspection cover. 1qt... check primary chain tension while you're in there

 

[303xb]

As long as the mobil1 you're using is for v-twins and safe for primaries, wet clutches, etc. Stand the bike up, drain, and refill through inspection cover like browland said, using a long funnel. Should take about .95 qt. Download a manual above if you get stuck. Super easy.

 

[Stevenc150]

I always just pour in the full quart and it seems to be fine measure out fine. Also have some tin foil, or cardboard handy to redirect the draining oil away from your exhuast.

 

[Alfatango1]

Avoid oils that say "energy conserving" in the bottom half of the donut (SAE stamp). These oils contain friction modifier additives that could cause clutch slipping over time. Essentially all 0w-20, 5w-30 and 10w-30 oils are energy conserving, and should not be used in your motorcycle. Other than that there should never be an issue with car oil in a motorcycle, especially synthetics.

 

[Stevenc150]

Stick with motorcycle specific oils. Motorcycles engines break down oil viscocity much more quickly than cars do. Also, our air-cooled v-twin operating temps demand more from oil than a water-cooled car engine. It's also not worth the price difference to me to chance it - but to each his own.

 

[Alfatango1]

Well I wouldn't use dino oil in my bike but full synthetics pass all breakdown tests in bikes. Just change them at the proper intervals.

Until I see new testing that says definitively that using non motorcycle specific oil will damage an air cooled engine or if MC companies start denying warranties I'm fine with it

 

[303xb]

What I don't understand is why would anyone just not pay an extra 3$ a qt to put the tried and true fluid in?? We're talking 12 bucks a season. I love to gamble, but if it's on 2 wheels on going tried and true.

 

[Alfatango1]

It's not about money and I'm not a gambler I just don't believe in everything advertisers tell me. I was a buyer for one of the biggest auto parts retailers, then I was a sales manager for a giant parts distributor so I worked with a lot of oil companies and as such got a lot of inside info on the stuff.

 

[browland]

Alfa I can agree advertisers like to do what they can to sell more product at higher prices. But sometimes if you don't have the inside info or don't know what to look for one can screw themselves. You might chose a non motorcycle oil that has sulpher additives that can find its way to the stator or end up as you said earlier with the additive that could ruin the clutch

 

[Alfatango1]

You might chose a non motorcycle oil that has sulpher additives that kind find its way to the stator or end up as you said earlier with the additive that could ruin the clutch

This is true so one should be careful or do due diligence. So to make it simple and easiest it would be best to buy MC oil only! See I'm not that hard headed

 

[DevonG]

Alright great, thanks guys I'll get on that hopefully this makes a big difference... Brought the bike to work today and everyones like wow and asking me a bunch of questions

 

[DevonG]

And yea holy f&@) this mobile one is expensive, which do you guys prefer in these bikes AMSoil or Mobile?

 

[BuddhaBuell]

alot of guys run both of those as well as Royal Purple....
Mobile1 runs aboot $14.99/q up here on Vancouver Island..

another trick i've used for filling up the primary is to cut a toilet paper tube in half and line it with tinfoil...works great

I run Motul Twin Syn for V Twins and it is costing me $11.99/q and I change my oil every 3000kms (there are weeks were I ride an easy 1000kms)

just my .02

 

[gbyrd]

I prefer ams. works very good. there is a reason they are official oil of the 08 sturgis rally and 09 daytona bike week. its just that good IMHO.

 

[dallasb]

Dang I just picked up ams. 20-50W for 9.75 a qt.

 

[kalifornia]

full synthetics pass all breakdown tests in bikes[/quote]and of course so do conventionals. In fact the same conventionals mixed in Mobil 1 and other oils advertised as fully synthetic.

 

[GW 04 XB12R]

A certified diesel oil such as 15W-40 Rotella-T or Mobil Delvac is also acceptable. It's convention so it's still a 1,000-1,500mi oil change, but it's like $10/gallon. This can be reassured if you look in the service manual. It suggests diesel-certified oil if you cannot use HD oil right away.

 

[DevonG]

Just a little update guys I replaced the oil and I'm noticing a nice difference, haven't had a chance to take it out for a long ride yet though. I did end up stripping one of my inspection cover screw heads and damn that was alot of fun to take out in the end I just ended up getting a specialty 2 bit screw extractor from Canadian tire and it worked really well. Thanks for the help guys
-DG

 

[jasoncummings64]

how often should primary oil be changed?