Rear brake pads

[Mesozoic]

Yes, another rear brake pad thread. I use my rear brake mainly in city riding approaching stop lights/signs, etc. so mainly low speed stuff. I've got an EBC rotor and EBC HH pads right now and the brakes are not great - the pads are worn out so it's time. The initial bite was never very strong and unless I really heat them up they don't perform well on the street. What are some other good options to try? I was considering Hawk HMC1003 (organic) or HMC5003 (sintered) as a test. Also Braking CM56 and SM1. The reason I'm looking at the semi-metallics instead of sintered is because they perform better when cold. Since my rear brake never really heats up due to lack of use, maybe the semi-metallic will function better?

 

[GregoXB]

My 2 cents, OEM rotor and pads in the rear.

 

[Mesozoic]

You know what, I've actually got EBC FA140 pads in the back - which are organic, I believe... not the HH as I had thought. So switching to the HH compound might improve things?

 

[Cooter]

The Buell rear brake sucks. I don't know why. I think its a OE master cylinder thats too big because its a hard pedal and no stopping force.

You shouldn't be able to tell a hot/cold difference in a street pad unless they weren't bedded properly. If the rotor doesn't have any pad material transferred to it, or (it was cleaned off) you could get a slick when cold symptom.

FWIW I never use the rear brake anyway, unless the STT is off road!

 

[Mesozoic]

Well, I certainly use it when approaching a stop cautiously in the city since it's much more gradual and has less bite. There's numerous options out there, but not sure what I will run out back next. I've looked at the Ferodo ST, SBS, Braking CM56, Hawk, and EBC HH.

 

[LouWambsganss]

I have a slight grudge against Lyndall, because they sell a pack of two pads for the 8 piston ZTL2 caliper, but they never mention that it is not a full 4-pad set. However, the product is good. I have the Gold+ pad material and like it. It is organic.

 

[njloco]

Cooter, where does that road go and how far are those mountains from you ? Also, if you don't mind answering this one, is there a beer stop or do you have to bring your own ?

Oh yeah, is there any after markets to improve the rear brakes performance, oops, never mind I found my answer, which is no, there really is no way to improve the rear brake's performance.

 

[lowkey]

is there any after markets to improve the rear brakes performance, oops, never mind I found my answer, which is no, there really is no way to improve the rear brake's performance.

Bleed bleed bleed and then bleed it some more! The rear brake has plenty of stopping power but does have a terrible "wooden" feel which makes modulation of biting force not so easy. I suspect it is the master cylinder as Cooter pointed out. This is a common trait of to large of MC, feel goes out the window, smaller would bring modulation and feel but require more pedal pressure for the same force. Taking the time to get every last little bit of trapped air from the system makes them work very well aside from feel. Maybe the fact I use Motul RBF 600 also made the improvement.

Mesozoic, can't think there is a better cold temp material than organic, the more "track" or "race" oriented the pad is made for, the higher the ideal working temp range for bite is going to be. Maybe it is just the wooden feel that is throwing you off?

EDIT:

I want to play the STT's in the dirt game too! I was on Q3's! And yes of course we had cold beer with us.

 

[Mesozoic]

I'm also running Motul RBF 600, but what's throwing me off is that the rear brake in my 1125CR works great for the same purposes I need the XB rear brake for. The CR is new to me however, so I don't know what pads it's running. I don't think it's the same brake, either.

 

[user_deleted]

smaller would bring modulation and feel but require more pedal pressure for the same force.

that is incorrect. for the same identical amount of applied pressure the smaller the bore of a master cylinder the greater the line pressure that is generated. the larger the bore the greater amount of fluid volume that is "moved" thru the system and which coincides with the amount of calipers and size of them that the master cylinder is required to operate.

this goofy thread fails to identify and understand the "smallness" of both the rear brake rotor...the caliper....and the size of the twin pads. why is the system "wooden" in feel and small in stature? simple. to prevent unwanted rear wheel lock-up.

 

[Cooter]

njloco: That's an entrance to the Southern/ West end of the Grand Canyon, near Peach Springs (just past Hackberry), AZ off Route 66. You can get to the Skywalk from there (60 miles!)
No beer, no gas, no nothing. Awesome But theres always a flask in the saddlebags, I'm a rolling BATFE nightmare:sorrow:

You could buy pads all day, but the easiest definitive solution is more pressure.

Rear masters for motorcycles are cheap and (mostly) mount the same so I'm looking for a smaller master, or to change the pivot on the pedal. Then the foot pedal will travel more. Either way I will get more fluid pressure with the same pedal pressure. It will allow better modulation as well to prevent lock-ups. I could run a bigger caliper for the same result but that would be harder to find with the right mounts etc. On the never ending list of projects

 

[lowkey]

smaller would bring modulation and feel but require more pedal pressure for the same force.

that is incorrect. for the same identical amount of applied pressure the smaller the bore of a master cylinder the greater the line pressure that is generated. the larger the bore the greater amount of fluid volume that is "moved" thru the system and which coincides with the amount of calipers and size of them that the master cylinder is required to operate.

this goofy thread fails to identify and understand the "smallness" of both the rear brake rotor...the caliper....and the size of the twin pads. why is the system "wooden" in feel and small in stature? simple. to prevent unwanted rear wheel lock-up.

Yep, my mistake...:up: it's been a few years since I was researching this for picking an MC for the ZTL2. Just glad I picked the right MC that seems to work perfect (2006 Hayabusa), both feel and required pressure. Had a 50/50 shot of getting them mixed up and I of course did...

I'd still have to argue that a wooden feel could cause wheel lock-up much more easily because of the lack of feedback through the pedal. On the front you know exactly what you are going to get based on feel through the leaver. Done enough both front and rear become muscle memory to get exactly what you want from each brake.

 

[Mesozoic]

Has anyone used the SBS LS sintered rear pads? I see people reviewing them on EBRForums and several others stating they're pretty good.

 

[njloco]

Looks like a real nice road for ully's and Stt's with the right tires. Must be a great ride and plenty of good places in those mountains to camp. I was out that way back in the late 70's, the canyon is mind boggling to say the least. Someday soon I hope to get out there again but this time I'll have a bike, hopefully the Buell.

I get why the longer brake peddle would work but I can't seem to grasp why the smaller reservoir would do anything, unless it works like the principle of the example lunatic gives above ?

 

[Cooter]

A smaller M/C piston requires more travel to move the same amount of fluid. You have to be careful not to go to small as theres not much travel to work with.

 

[jl551c]

FWIW I never use the rear brake anyway, unless the STT is off road!

Love that picture Cooter. Makes me want to be there.

 

[Cooter]

OK! First one to the end gets to name it I was thinking Los Cooters caerán?