School me on pin striping and stickers in general

[twowheeltom]

I'm helping a buddy who just ordered up new white plastics for his Uly create a custom look with pin striping. Obviously we want to do this once and not dick the dog in the process so any advise is VERY welcome.

We're basing the bike off of this tribute bike:

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/features/122_1101_mc_project_buell_tribute_bike/viewall.html

and planning on a series of orange and black pin stripes that run lengthwise thru a number - say 3 stripes wide black, med orange, small black. We'll mock this up to be sure of our pattern before. On Tuesday we're headed to a local "sticker shop" that makes decals for fire departments, police departments, city busses, business logos, etc. all for cars. I trust that they will lead us in the right direction, but need to be educated before we go.

1. What type of sticker should we be looking for? i.e. vinyl?

2. What type of prep work is needed before we lay these down?

3. Is one adhesive backing better than another for plastic?

4. Should any type of product be used over the top of the stripes to add to longevity? I'm concerned about a tank bag - or maybe we'll just stay away from the tank bag area...

5. Some stickers fade more than others - why and what types should we stay away from?

I think that's it for now. Maybe responses will trigger some more questions.

*** We did contact the decal shop listed in the article and were told that was a one time deal for the magazine shoot. Between set up and printing it's crazy expensive for another run. ***

Thanks!

 

[Lesley]

1. What type of sticker should we be looking for? i.e. vinyl?

Yes that or polyester. Polyester is stronger but doesn't stretch as easily upon application.

2. What type of prep work is needed before we lay these down?

If the plastic is squeaky clean no problems should arise.

4. Should any type of product be used over the top of the stripes to add to longevity? I'm concerned about a tank bag - or maybe we'll just stay away from the tank bag area

UV protectant. Goes on like ink.

5. Some stickers fade more than others - why and what types should we stay away from?

It's all about material. They make UV protectant inks and toners. You definitely want ink based decals btw
All these questions should be answered when you go to order your decals.
Good luck [up]

 

[expatriate00]

What type of prep work is needed before we lay these down?

The surface must be SUPER clean for the graphics to go on as flat and adhesive ready as possible.
You'll need a small squeegee for actually applying the graphics later. but for now you need some lintless shop towels and some airbrush reducer or some automotive paint prep degreaser. Its available from better stocked automotive parts retailers or from a PPG paint distributor. Airbrush reducer is whats used to thin airbrush paint and is available at any REAL art supply store or model shop. The acrylic paint variety is not what you're looking for though. In this instance you want something slightly HOT to cut any grease on what ever you're applying it to. Now bear in mind this still is a piece of plastic bodywork, you cant dowse it in a chemically hot bath of death. OK, you need gloves for this! The whole point is to CLEAN the parts, this includes grubby fingerprints. Latex gloves will do, or use the poly kind if you like, just use 'em.
First just wash it in water and Dawn dishwashing soap. Scrub with nothing a sponge, no Scotchbrite or brushes they'll just make small scratches in the plastic. Dry with a lintless towel. With a separate lintless towel, absorb a small amount of the reducer or degreaser into the towel. DON'T put too much! You just want to dampen part of the towel. Clean until you've covered the entire part. Dampen the towel again and repeat. Clean again in water and Dawn, let air dry and the wipe with a final lintless towel.Your part should be ready to apply graphics, but if you're handling them be sure to do it with gloves.
WHen you apply the graphics use a small flexible squeegee. You need something with a flexible edge, like a screen printing squeegee( obtainable at previously mentioned REAL art supply store). You need to apply it without bubbles but also without marring the surface of the graphics. Start on one corner or edge and work toward the other using the squeegee as you go. Top to bottom works best but there will be instance where you have to work otherwise. Remember, compound curves are a bitch for graphics, they'll have to be stretched and prodded to fit on all but flattest of surfaces. I suggest breaking the elements up for something like that. Some people I have worked with doing this recommend using Windex under the graphics layer to "float" them on, then squeegee them down. This was usually used on larger projects than this, not sure its necessary here. Those were much larger pieces of graphics material.
Hope that helps, I have used these prep methods for many successful graphics applications on many different surfaces. good luck!

 

[TerryS1980]

You can mix water and dishsoap in a spray bottle to lubricate the surfaces before applying the decals. It will be easier to get all the bubbles out and you can adjust if not properly aligned.