Some questions. Problems with Buell Ulysses

[tazwolf]

Hello,
I bought a 2006 Ulysses about 3 months ago, I have had a lot problems and would be really grateful if someone could help me some
questions?
I bought the bike hoping I would be able to ride it during the summer and then I would spend the winter doing any maintenence that would be needed but due to the problems I have that has not been the case.
I have little experience with motorcycles, I owned one 10 years ago for a couple of years (A triumph Thunderbird Sport) and I do not have and never have had a car., so I am lost about some things. I have a buelltooth and can use megalogviewer to log. The bike is stock but I purchased a K&N filter and have installed it.

1) My belt broke after 2 days of ownership, I have installed a new belt. Form what I have read online, the new belt should be really, really tight but I can move mine about 1/2 inch up and down at roughly the midpoint, so its tight but not overly so as seems to be the norm with a new belt. Is this ok?

2) All 3 of the tie bars isolators are worn out, would this affect the looseness of the belt?

3) I have an exhaust leak in the front cylinder where the header joins, would an exhaust leak in the front cause the O2 sensor in the rear to give O2 sensor always lean code? I have tried to check for exhaust leak in the rear but I do not know how to as it is difficult to get to. I have checked for intake leaks and there are none.

4) From looking at the service manual it appears I have to lower/rotate the engine in order to replace the rear tie bar isolator which is connected to the rear engine mount. I am a little confused about how the rear engine mount works, what is the purpose of the rubber around the mount (the rubber on mine has started to come loose in parts around the circumference of the mount) I cannot see what the rubber is isolating against as the bolt goes which goes through the middle is surrounded by metal. in what case does the engine mount need to be replaced,do I need a new one?

5) Shifter linkage is loose, are the eyelets in the rod end supposed to move or should they be rigid?

So, a lot of questions and I would be really grateful for any help as I feel rather swamped with all of the problems I have.

Regards
Taz

 

[Chicknstripn]

Wow, what a post!
First, make sure your battery is in tip top shape. Insure the battery connections and all the grounds are clean and tight. This includes the grounds to the rear subframe and the grounds at the front steering neck/stem area of the bike.
Second, if you believe your tie bars or isolators are beyond their service limits then replace them. However, it's rare to have any engine mounts, other than the front isolator, wear. But your bike IS a Buell and stranger things have been posted.
You have a service manual. That's great. Read it. Learn it. Love it!
The Buell platform is not a complicated one. Using the service manual and some common sense you should be able to tackle any task your bike throws at you.
If your front exhaust is leaking, replace the exhaust gaskets. This will require and engine rotation. It's not the easiest thing to do but it's also not the hardest. I've rotated my engine about a dozen times in the ten years that I've owned my bike. AND I STILL HAVE THE MANUAL AND NOTES BY MY SIDE EACH AND EVERY TIME!
During that rotation you should be able to replace everything you're concerned with. That is everything except the rear isolator mount. That will require dropping the engine out of the frame entirely. Honestly, I would like to see a pic of that mount to see what you believe is worn.
As far as your belt tension is concerned referee to your manual. It should tell you how much play the belt should have. Excessive play is usually a result of a belt tensioner pulley issue or bad rear wheel bearings.
Are you sure you replaced the broken/worn belt with the correct belt?
With ECMdriod you should be able to clear codes and reset your TPS. I believe TPS resets are required about every 10k on 2007 and older Buells.
That should give quite a bit of food for thought.
Just follow your manual and tackle one task at a time.
Good luck

 

[tazwolf]

Thank you Chickstripn for you thorough post.
Battery is new, done all the grounds
i have a service manual and am using it, just have some simple questions and needed some advice.

The tie bars wiggle around slightly when moved, i can see the eyelets have come loose form the rubber surounding them so engine rotation will have to be done for the rear one and I will replace exhaust gaskets at the same time.
There is no info on play for the belt in the service manual, I will leave that for the moment and concentrate on fixing the other stuff.
I took the shifter linkage apart and readjusted and tightened it much better now, still wobbles a bit but much better than before.
So i am concentrating on the doing the rotation now.
thanks for all your advice, much appreciated!.

 

[Chicknstripn]

Check the DIY section. I'm pretty sure there's a thread with pictures on how to perform an engine rotation. If you have a service manual the thread isn't necessary but I believe you can never have too much info when diving into the unknown.
Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[tazwolf]

So, i am in the process of doing an engine rotation and am stuckbat removing the front isolator bolt, the rubber from the mount seems stuck but there are may threads about this so i am working through them trying different solutions. I have a worry though and that is how tigten both bolts on the rear tiebar. Before rotating down one loosens the right hand side of the bar and rotate down after loosening front iso bolt. When i am done and ready to rotate up, how do i tighten theleft side of the tiebar in the correct position? The right hand side can only be tightened and torqued with the engine up but the left hand side can only be tightened and torqued when the engine is rotated down. Any tips?