Some real bad shifting issues.

[bigblast7]

Okay so here goes. I'm so damn aggravated, been trying to figure out this dang problem for days now! Something is wrong with my transmission and I'm not sure what. Here's what I'm feeling. The shifting is absolutely horrible, it all started when my primary screw became fairly loose due to vibration of a highway ride. Thankfully I found it before it became completely unscrewed. But some oil leaked out. And then my oil pressure light came on. So I was nervous and bought some mobil1 for my engine at least to out in before my oil change. Light went off, felt fine. THEN! my shifting became clunky and it would get stuck in 5th it would take me to jam it down to get through the gears. Finding neutral takes a few minutes but its there. Shifting from 1st to second is clunky and hard but possible. But second to third and up the lever wont budge it's like it gets stuck. SO I immediately thought **** let me do an transmission fluid exchange before anything eta worse. I replaced the old fluid with again 1qt mobil1 vtwin. Turned the bike on let it run for a second hoped on and even worse results. It would get stuck in any gear and would take me to kick it hard to get it up or down any gears and anything above 2nd was nonexistent all just felt like a jam.
I've been searching non stop on all forums for any answers. I've found so many but not sure which one(s) could be the actual problem. (shift linkage, shift pawl, pins, Detent plates, etc)

Anyone have any ideas or suggestions. Also I've basically pulled my entire primary case apart except that the case won't come off because of the shifter piece(round piece that shift lever clamps to)????[confused] how do I remove the entire case off?

 

[xtremelow]

Did you loosen the primary chain tensioner/guide (Nut and allen on the bottom), also disconnect the ramp mechanism? Reach through the top inspection cover and make sure the chain is really loose.

that is the only thing I can think of that would hold the case on, assuming you have all the bolts out

 

[Sidewinder]

If your primary screw (tensioner?) came loose... Did you readjust your primary chain when you tightened it back up? I'd think if it was too tight you'd have that sort of problem. I had the opposite problem where my chain was too loose and caused shifting problems.

 

[dallasb]

You have to take off the clutch ramp for the primary case to come off.

 

[dallasb]

I didn't see that xtreme had already touched on the clutch ramp...if I could edit my post ^^ I would.

First and foremost do not under any circumstances force the bike into gear. I understand your frustration but you can end up costing yourself a lot more money and headache. I would start with the most simple explaination by checking your clutch adjustment. That can explain why its hard to shift but doesn't really touch on the lights. Basically start from the beginning and work your way back. I just got done with pulling my primary off due to a dirtdobber nest in my transmission vent line. Be very careful when pulling off the primary as to not put the clutch cable in a bind. Also take care as to not put to much pressure on the round piece that the shifter connects to.

To take off the clutch ramp just remove the inspection cover. Use a screw driver and turn the piece on the inside clockwise (I think). Once you get the nut unscrewed disconnect the clutch cable from the clutch ramp. The primary case will then slide off.

All this was for a xb...but it should be close to the same thing. Hope that helps.

 

[bigblast7]

so i guess it was the clutch worm?

A friend picked it up and did the work of adjusting it he said it was just out of adjustment. He said its just something that needs to be checked and adjusted every so often. I wish I knew it was that so I could have done it myself instead of paying him. But im just thankful its working. The only thing now though is its making like a chirp when it engages like everytime i just "blip" the thottle or begin to go i hear a little chirp from the clutch. any ideas?

 

[bigblast7]

Its actually like a chirping sort of humm, it also makes just the humm sound when I kill it and roll to a stop in neutral.

 

[EvilMike79]

I think when the primary is too tight on my blast it makes a humming sound. I loosened it a little and the humming stopped. I dont know much but that is my guess.

 

[bigblast7]

Thanks man but it's coming more from like clutch plate area especially in fourth. Like a whirling

 

[bigblast7]

Wow so its gotten really intense today? Any suggestions? The guy who adjusted it the first time said that it's almost for sure the nut that's right inside the primary cover the one that the spring goes in to. He said that it looked a bit rounded and I could get another from a dealer. Does anyone think this could be it and if so have a part number for it. It's killer loud in 1,2,3,4 but 5th it goes away completely

 

[mar1]

Hi everyone, I have a 07 buell blast and its stuck on first gear wont go neutral or any gear. I would like to do it my self but no experience in this. My question, is it a simple fix that I can do? or just take it to a dealer that would probly cost me alot$$$$$. she only have 4000 miles. Any suggestion for me to save some money would be great thanks.

 

[zilchsniper]

hey everyone. my friend has a blast that is hard to shift into gears and does a little grinding. it is a brand new 08 and only has 130 miles on it. but i am worried for the long trips this summer. the clutch also engages completly withing a 1/16th inch of letting it out. it is so agrevating. i don't know what to do about it. can anyone help.

 

[ezblast]

First adjust primary to the loose side - out till noise then in till noise gone. Then adjust clutch at primary, loosen arm, no need take off, and then if that still doesn't make it right - then do this:
Drain primary, loosen primary adjuster, loosen clutch cable (a cheat would be to count flats out so you can go that many back in)

put bike in N

remove arm

remove shifter

remove inspection cover

remove primary cover, put aside gently with clutch cable still attached -
remove all the stuff in front of the clutch basket, remove top and bottom chain guide shoes and lower spring,remove clutch basket, chain and rotor as a unit - you'll need some big ass sockets and that piece of metal between the two, I think it is the clutch basket nut that is reversed threaded - both will need extra persuasion, and you can't use the air tools, will screw up bearings.
done with the disassembly
you are hereWheeee!! Here goes! The neutral light was flickering and going out and the gear shifter seemed to rattle into gear. Now for the good news! I pulled the peg frame off for the fifth time and pulled the primary cover for a little looksee. I found the bolt that holds the shifter pawl detent loose behind the clutch drum! The bolt also holds the shift drum in place, hence the flickering neutral light! Off comes the primary chain set, out comes the locktite and it now shifts like a dream! and all the transmission noise is gone to boot. Neutral is easy to find.

Your problem is a little different - you'll replace the Detent plate, clip(s) and do the drum pin adjustment as well, then do the shift pawl adjustment, then the clutch adjustment, then the primary adjustment, then the clutch cable adjustment.

Except you'll also have the rotor off as well so you can get to everything.

your detent plate, detent clip, and drum pins have mis-aligned/or clip broke. you'll have to go all the way into the primary, replace clip, plate and re-adjust drum pins before putting on new detent clip and plate, so that the drum pins are all the same size - put a drop of locktite at pin base of any long pin and gently tap in till the same size as the rest - max length 0.335. While there - chamfer stator plate edges ttill all are rounded. Do shift-pawl adjustment - use proper drill bit size. You will need a primary gasket, primary inspection gasket, oring for primary drain and adjuster, shift shaft seal, detent plate, 2 Detent clips (some folks put two on if 1 is too loose feeling),red and blue locktite, and basic tools, and a thin1/16" piece of steel 1 1/2" by 4 1/4" with each end rounded. A couple of beers later your done, reassemble - couple more beers. lol - Test ride in the morning - should shift better than when new from the factory. When your in this far - your just following the easy to follow manuals instructions for procedures - to get into and out of 5th gear you may have to rock/roll the bike a tinny bit - lol - then just reassemble to spec per manual
For folks - notes on the Shift Pawl Adjustment:
1) Use the correct size drill bit - see manual.
2) measure your drum pins, if any are over sized, put a drop of red locktite at the base and gently tap back in till the same length as the rest of the pins.
3) Replace detent plate and clip, maybe use two clips - been done - those clips are a real weakness.
4) Chamfer the edges of the Stator wire protection plate.
5) make sure primary is totally loose when doing adjustments, should be the last thing adjusted - clutch at primary then at levor, levor should be loosened before opening primary.
6) Use a good synth in 15/50.

The rest is pretty much by the manual and easy to do.
Note there is both a parts manual and service manual here for your usage and reference.
After 3 good 1/2 hour rides re-torque primary bolts to spec in pattern specified.


I know its a bit haphazard, but its not really a how to - more of a rough outline of a how to, however, I hope you do get the idea of how easy it is - with the information supplied and the manuals it should be a piece of cake.
EZ

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[ezblast]

re-adjust drum pins before putting on new detent clip and plate

EZ