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speedo stopped working mid ride

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JonDredd

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 2, 2016
Messages
47
Location
Maryland
2009 xb9sx city
rode to work and all went well. about 8 hours later I rode home and all seemed to be running fine. In fact, I was taking some back roads just to get a little more fast fun on the ride home. After about 20 minutes, I noticed the speedometer was at zero, and I know I was going around 70. I feel like I keep a pretty regular glance at the speedo, so I think I noticed it within a few minutes of it going out. Everything was running fine, so I just kept on going to see if it would kick back in, but nothing.
Then, about 5 minutes after I noticed the speedo, the orange engine light came on and stayed on until I pulled in my driveway about 5 minutes later. I didn't notice anything running differently or any strange sounds, so I shut it off, and the fan came on as usual. I waited one minute, and turned the key, and now the engine light was off and the speedo needle jumped, so I took it back up and down the street and it all seemed to work fine... at least up to about 90 or so down the block.

So my question is this...
What do we think that was all about?
Is it a sign of something to come?
Is there something I should check out now?
I have a Buelltooth dongle thingy, and I've used it years ago to check codes so I suppose I could see if it shows anything? but will it now that the light is off?

Any ideas?
 
do what josh recommended. codes for 2009 all XB as follows:

fault codes 37&43 applicable for speedometer and speed sensor units.
37 more indicative of failing speedo head unit
43 more indicative of speed sensor voltage being too high...too low...short to ground
cracked IC board in cluster usually stores 37 and comes and goes.

you also need to closely and carefully check your ground cluster at the front of the main wiring harness in vicinity of steering neck and dedicated ground behind stock SX fly screen. compromised ground will cause wild speedo fluctuations.
 
If just the speedo quit, look at the speedo sensor (R&R and clean the junk off the magnet) and circuit, speedo stepper motor, or sometimes the needle can physically stick to the gauge housing if someone installed a custom gauge background incorrectly.

If the speedo and tach quit at the same time, you should be looking at cluster voltage (and ground) circuits like Barrett said. The dash lights would go out too if that your issue. Go 90 mph down your block at night.
 
Right now all seems working... but when it happened, tach never stopped working, the engine light came on, and I assume the backlights were still working, all while the speedo was at zero, so maybe sensor related??? It doesn't seem like the needle sticks. I'm pretty sure only the speedo was affected.

I did check the buelltooth and it showed no current codes, but under stored codes was the "43 - VS input short to supply voltage"
Given this, is the front end grounds the first to go over? Is the speedo sensor still a possible factor?
 
If just the speedo quit, look at the speedo sensor (R&R and clean the junk off the magnet) and circuit, speedo stepper motor, or sometimes the needle can physically stick to the gauge housing if someone installed a custom gauge background incorrectly.

If the speedo and tach quit at the same time, you should be looking at cluster voltage (and ground) circuits like Barrett said. The dash lights would go out too if that your issue. Go 90 mph down your block at night.

This^^^^ also check the harness for frayed or damaged wiring.
 
Right now all seems working... but when it happened, tach never stopped working, the engine light came on, and I assume the backlights were still working, all while the speedo was at zero, so maybe sensor related??? It doesn't seem like the needle sticks. I'm pretty sure only the speedo was affected.

I did check the buelltooth and it showed no current codes, but under stored codes was the "43 - VS input short to supply voltage"
Given this, is the front end grounds the first to go over? Is the speedo sensor still a possible factor?


Jon: with the info you just provided and with the info i provided in my initial post....you just resolved this.
stored historical #43 indicates VSS activity the ECM saw, and didn't like. can be VSS signal too high...too low....erractic....short to ground fault(extremely rare). SM shows its location which is top of trans portion of engine case just inboard of plastic front belt pulley cover.
given its easy access and replacement cost...a R&R and thorough cleaning might prolong its service life. historical MUST be cleared out of the ECM.

still several in dealer system as follows:
original list price of $59.40
early version VSS part number 74402-05....NO suffix
later version VSS part number 74402-05B...NO suffix
as memory serves the B designated slight mod to plug end.
 
Jon: with the info you just provided and with the info i provided in my initial post....you just resolved this.
stored historical #43 indicates VSS activity the ECM saw, and didn't like. can be VSS signal too high...too low....erractic....short to ground fault(extremely rare). SM shows its location which is top of trans portion of engine case just inboard of plastic front belt pulley cover.
given its easy access and replacement cost...a R&R and thorough cleaning might prolong its service life. historical MUST be cleared out of the ECM.

still several in dealer system as follows:
original list price of $59.40
early version VSS part number 74402-05....NO suffix
later version VSS part number 74402-05B...NO suffix
as memory serves the B designated slight mod to plug end.

Barrett, we need to create a WIKI with ALL of your knowledge stored there. Like all these tidbits are super helpful.
 
Same thing for me last year.
It stopped working for some minutes than it worked again.
I cleaned the sensor just in case.
 
The only problem I have with mine (off-topic) is that it's off. Says I'm rolling about 5mph faster than I am. That's true of a lot of bikes, though.

34nineteen, did replacing the sensor make any noticeable difference (if applicable)?
 
Possible someone put the needle on wrong at one point? Otherwise, its an electronic stepper motor. No calibration other than the tone wheel at the final drive of the trans (12 and 9 are different).
 
The only problem I have with mine (off-topic) is that it's off. Says I'm rolling about 5mph faster than I am. That's true of a lot of bikes, though.

34nineteen, did replacing the sensor make any noticeable difference (if applicable)?

It just made the speedometer act normal. Before that it was all over the place.

Strangely, after I replaced it, the bike did start running correctly. I talked to upaero about this, and he agreed with me that the speedo sensor was just there to drive the speedometer and had no effect on the how the bike runs. It was still very odd/coincidental though.
 
It just made the speedometer act normal. Before that it was all over the place.

Strangely, after I replaced it, the bike did start running correctly. I talked to upaero about this, and he agreed with me that the speedo sensor was just there to drive the speedometer and had no effect on the how the bike runs. It was still very odd/coincidental though.

Interesting...
 
Possible someone put the needle on wrong at one point? Otherwise, its an electronic stepper motor. No calibration other than the tone wheel at the final drive of the trans (12 and 9 are different).

Yeah it's unfortunate that it can't be calibrated - because that'd be awesome.
 
loose plug back of speedometer

Check the plug into the speedometer at the back...it may be just loose.
 
I went searching for a sensor Sunday to find when I took the part #and Googled it lots of later sportsters and big twins use the same one and the king of on line sales got me one here Wednesday for about $25.

34nineteen mine also acted strange high idle like not warmed up an not as smooth as normal shut down cleaned sensor and it worked for 2.5 miles I haven't put the new one in I will tonight. It only acts up when up to temp for a while cold in the AM went 30miles this morning and worked fine
 
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