still surges and misfires

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buellwanted

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Mar 23, 2008
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I have a 03 xb9s 2800 miles it sat alot is what I was told. I have replaced fuel, oil, plugs, plug wires sanded terminals on battery, and crankcase breather mod. It still does it. It starts out ok for 5 miles and then I start crusing at 4000 rpm and it feels like it cuts out and surges. Or when roll through a turn at a stoplight It cuts out and I feel like I will fall over. any help??? [mad][mad][mad]
 
Check the volts on the battery and do a load test on it. Fuel injected motors will struggle with a bad battery. I went threw it awhile back, the bike started fine but ran like crap. Found out the battery had a bad cell and would not hold 12.9v it would never go above 12.5v.
 
The guy before me bought it from the dealer w race kit installed so I belive it has had it done. But I am buying the spy cables this week and going to do it my self anyway 55.00 is way cheaper than 90.00 and a day at the dealer. I am going to test the batt tonight
 
The first recommendations that comes to mind as soon as someone mentions that a stored bike is having problems are:

1. Gummed/varnished fuel system
2. Degraded battery

Both can cause the symptoms you describe, and there's lots of previous posts on resolving them.
 
I tested my battery it is at 12.8 so thats good however I also had my coil tested and it is messed up the primary is at .02 which it needs 0.5 to 0.7 so it is way low, and my secondary is at 12.66 and it needs to be 5.5 to 7.5. I talked to the dealer and he said it is because of the race ecm. A coil through him is 44.00 but if I am going to burn it up again I am looking into aftermarket. Is there any or should I go with stock and hope for the best.
 
The dealer said your race ECM is the cause for a bad coil? Your dealer is full of crap. Just curious- Where did you get the primary and secondary resistance specs for the coil? I did a quick skim through my maintenance manual and couldn't find them.
 
Never mind- I found the coil specs in my manual in the troubleshooting section.

According to your numbers, your coil primary may have a short in the windings. The manual says to replace the coil with a known good one. So, borrow a coil from another XB or spend the coin on a new one. Your secondary resistance check is a little high, but it doesn't look like an open winding. The reading might be due to dirt or minor oxidation on the coil connection or meter test leads.

Either way, my next move would be to swap out the coil and see if your symptoms go away. I'm assuming you've already pulled your spark plug wires and inspected them for arcing. If you've verified that your spark plug cables are good and your symptoms don't change after the coil swap (note that the replacement coil MUST be fully bolted to the frame for it to work) , then you need to start looking at the fuel system.

I'm glad you have the manual and are using it. The troubleshooting recommendations for starting and running problems are pretty thorough. Keep at it- You'll find the problem eventually.

P.S. Unless you load test your battery, you don't really don't know it's good, even if the voltage reads 12+ volts. I'd test it, just for the peace of mind of knowing that I had a good battery, especially since you believe the bike was stored for a while.
 
I got a 20% off coupon in the mail as a promo from the dealer so I thought what the hell it only cost me 36.00, but 7 to 10 sunny days to wait. The plug wires are new and so are the plugs. I havent ordered the spy cables yet but will buy this weekend. I am going to take the battery to autozone on sat also. I hope this is the answer. Thanks for the feedback man.
 
Tork: When you say it needs to be fully bolted to the frame, would it be possible that lining the bottom of it with sticky double sided foam tape could interfere with that? Lefox had recommended I add some rubber or foam tape to the bottom to minimize vibration and avoid cracking and although I tightened it like a ************ I wonder if it needs to be making metal to metal contact that this was jacking up??? But wait, what would that have to do with the multimeter readings I'm getting. As the new coil I ordered is brand new it couldn't be oxidized or corroded could it? So frustrated.

Wanted: Any luck???
 
Nobody likes to admit they're wrong, but I misread the manual, which says that the coil does NOT need to be fully installed for it to function, which contradicts what I told you previously. I looked at the electrical schematics and also see that the coil has no reference to ground, so the foam tape you put on would not cause a problem, and would help minimize vibration as Lefox advised.

Anyways, back to your problem- I don't know what kind of volt/ohm meter you're using, but if you have it set on the wrong scale when doing resistance checks, you can get erroneous readings, especially when you're measuring down in single-digits (like your primary check). Measure your primary resistance again and make sure your meter is set on the "x1" scale or whatever the lowest scale is on your meter. See if that reads closer to the .5 to .7 ohms you're looking for. Make sure you're measuring across the two outer conductors on the coil connector plug. When you check the secondary resistance across the two coil outputs, set your meter to the "x1K" scale and see if that's the problem. Your posted resistance readings may not be correct, but they don't indicate a short or open either, which is what usually happens when a coil goes bad. The fact that you're getting the same erroneous readings on two different coils also makes me suspect the meter settings used on your checks.
 

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