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Thinking about a project...

Buellxb Forum

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34nineteen

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 6, 2015
Messages
4,485
Location
Kolache Factory
I recently sold my XB12S and kind of miss it. I never really fell in love with the super short wheelbase, or the styling... and I've always liked the tubers, especially the M2 and X1.

So... I figured I'd look at the eye candy on this forum and came across purpony's bike with the XB wheels (and damn you!) and am just smitten.

I just finished a project bike and have been hunting around for another. It seems like with most of my project bikes, I tend to toss out or need to sell off most of the small parts. So, in this case, I'm thinking about building up from scratch. I think I found someone selling a M2 frame and I should be able to source the rest elsewhere.

Here is what I am thinking so far:

M2 frame
XB forks (03-04)
XB wheels
XB ZTL2 front caliper
Corbin seat

Thanks in advance for all advice!
 
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OK, well I have the bike home and have been cleaning it up and seeing what is really up mechanically with the bike.

First thing... new battery. Then, I pulled the spark plugs, dropped some oil into the spark plug holes and spun the motor over a couple times. Plugs installed, a quick shot of gas and it fired right up. No weird knocks or anything... so far, so good.

I pulled the carb and cleaned it out last night. I'll change the oil tonight and clean out the fuel tank as well.

I noticed that is has the steel swingarm on it. I heard there was a recall on some of them, but everything I have found about it doesn't point out how to tell if the recall has been done or not. I submitted the VIN to Harleys website to check it against those service records, but the progress icon just spins forever. I think after 20 years they decided to write this one off. LOL.

Anyone have a tail fairing they want to get rid of? :)
 
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Ok, fun times...

I have it now where it fires up immediately when you hit the starter.

The bike didn't come with a muffler, just the original header, so I threw a cheapo Thrush muffler on it so I could actually listen to the motor run.

So, it's making a funny rumbling sound which seems to come from the primary case. It doesn't sound like chain slap (not that I'm a Harley expert), more like a rumble. So, I shut her down and drain the primary. It dumps about 3 quarts of very dirty (and sparkly) oil into the pan. Hmmm...

I pull the derby and primary cover off and low and behold. The primary compensator? nut falls out. It looks like it's been rubbing on the primary case a bit and has worn down the first couple threads on the crank. I'm going to the HD store to get a new nut on Monday and see if I can torque this bad boy back down to 240-250 ft/lbs and hopefully save the day.

The adjuster shoe has some grooves in it about 1/16" deep. Isn't the shoe supposed to be smooth? Also, some nice grooves cut into the top of the primary cover. Good times.
 
Status update:

OK, so I bolted the primary case back up while the nut was on order. I received the nut and went to start cracking in back open, and lo and behold another 1/2 quart of oil comes out of the primary. So, the internets said that it is probably the crank seal behind the stator. Purchased new seal, and installed (with spacer in place).

I was also able to clean up the threads of the crank. Using a small triangle file and a hardware store bolt, it seems I was able to get the threads clean enough to accept the replacement nut, and get this buttoned back up. Tonight, its brake cleaner, lots of red locktite and 250 ft/lbs of torque (80-90 on the clutch).

Are there any sort of "timing marks" to align the chain and pulleys to? It wouldn't seem like it, and I didnt see anything listed in the googles.
 
Nope. As long as you didn't mess with the cams. Chain, rotor and clutch drive gears all go back on as one unit. At least that's the only way I've been able to do it.
 
OK. Good to know. It didnt seem like the primary drive had anything to do with timing, but wanted to make sure before I unload a bottle of red locktite and massive amounts of torque to the crank nut.

Right now, I'm just at the point where I want to make sure everything is somewhat sound before I start hucking a bunch of time and money at it.
 
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How loose does a primary chain have to be to hit the top of the cover?!?!?

Note the worn away metal on the lower right where the crank/front primary pulley had been rubbing on it.

Hopefully I don't need to get back in there in awhile as I used a metric sh*t ton of red locktite and torque!

I also have to figure out the clutch cable "quick release" threading. Is there a kit to fix the threads or do I just need to get a 5/16-24 helicoil kit? The funny part is that the clutch cable threaded section just pushes and pulls out of the cover, but a 5/16 bolt fits in there just about right. Maybe.


 
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So, I'm doing a lot of cleaning and trying to figure out a plan of attack.

I'm the process, I'm also going through everything making sure it's mechanically sound. I've been able to make it start up easily and idle like a kitten, but if you touch the gas it sputters and dies. I've completely cleaned and rebuld the carb, complete with a new diaphragm. I keep thinking its a carb issue, but then I realize there may be something else causing a problem. Hmmmm....

http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss111/34nineteen/Mobile Uploads/image_zpsvywr2l5o.jpg
 
Idles like a kitten, but coughs and dies when given gas. Carb has been completely flushed, cleaned and rebuilt with a new diaphragm. No vacuum leaks. Hmmmm....
image_zpsvywr2l5o.jpg
 
Idles like a kitten, but coughs and dies when given gas. Carb has been completely flushed, cleaned and rebuilt with a new diaphragm. No vacuum leaks. Hmmmm....

I've heard this sensor tends to live a short life, especially in hot enviroments like mine (AZ). Anyone heard anything to confirm/deny this?

I'm thinking about picking the aftermarket Drag Specialties version of the ignition pickup.

http://www.dragspecialties.com/products/?productId=228203&partNumber=08073017

Has anyone had good/bad luck with this?
 
OK, so I replaced the ignition coil/pickup/sensor or whatever you call it with a known good one. Same problem. Fires right up and idles like a kitten. Touch the throttle and it just spits sputters and dies. I was thinking it was an ignition problem until I was watching a video on rebuilding carbs and the guy mentions "don't forget to put in the needle jet tube". Wait, what? Hmmm... mine didnt have one of those, and it did seem weird the way the needle interfaced with the emulsion tube.

A quick phone call and a trip down to the Harley dealer for 27100-88 and she now responds to throttle input. Lots of backfiring out the exhaust and runs a bit rough, however I do have my timing glass on order to arrive this week hopefully so I can re-time her back to spec. Things are looking up!



I took this picture from the interwebs. The circled part was missing from my carb. Maybe the previous owner misplaced it during a cleaning?
 
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So, as I move along on this project. I step back and look at the bike and think...

I started this project thinking I was going to follow pur-pony (and others), and build this up with XB wheels which I absolutely love! I also really like the perimeter brake of the XB as well.

As I look through pictures of other tubers to see what other people have done, I am beginning to really appreciate the style of the original bike. So, part of me is also thinking about just stripping my existing wheels, polishing them up and keeping everything closer to stock. I've been looking at the PM wheels and am torn whether to just upgrade to those. They're nice, but really expensive.... if I'm going to go that route, why not just do an XB front end, wheels, brake, and pur-pony's silly expensive (but beautiful) rear pulley.

It seems like Twin Motorcycles still has the caliper rebuild kits for the PM/Buell brake and the rear appears to be a mid 90's KTM/Brembo setup.

Thoughts?
 
Ok. So she starts okay and idles okay. Now that I have a makeshift temporary muffler in place, I can actually listen to the bike idle and rev to listen for issues. My timing light seems to have developed legs over the past 10-15 years and is now where to be found. So, I basically timed it by a trial-and-error method of just moving the cam plate back and forth to see how I can get it to run best. Looks like it's time to pick up a dial back light (with tach).

The carb has a 48 pilot and a 185 main jet. The vacuum slide has been replaced and I have thoroughly rebuilt the carb with a new needle and reset the float height.

Now, that the bike is somewhat behaving and stable, I have been able to spray some carb cleaner at the intake manifold connections to check for leaks. From what I can gather, it seems that the manifold to head seals are leaking as well as the carb to manifold seal. I get the manifold to head connections and will be ordering new seals. I wonder what I'm doing wrong with the carb/manifold connection. I've replaced the seal and have greased it to help keep it from binding/moving, etc. Hmmm.....

I've ordered a rebuild kit for the front brake and have stainless hoses on the way. I think someone along the line mixed in some DOT 3/4/5.1 fluid into the factory fill. The brake pistons were all sticking when I got the bike, and a thorough disassembly and cleaning didn't fix it (first time is hasn't worked for me), so I'm thinking the seals may be swollen.
 
I don't have a pic of the intake, but I could take some this weekend as time allows. Its just a stock manifold, on stock heads, with a stock CV carb. The only thing aftermarket is the Hypercharger (sorry, I love those things). I have had the Hypercharger off during this procedure, but don't think that should be affecting anything. Yes, I am using the carb bracket.

So far, I've bought a new HD intake manifold, new flanges, new seals (both HD and James blue). I've also ground down my old flanges, tried tightening everything all the way down, the 6-8 nM torque setting, I've used Hylomar on the gaskets (a little and a lot), I've tried using just grease, I'm now using GMS (GM gasket sealer) on the flange/seal area and I'm still getting a leak.

The weird part is that I get the engine speed to increase when I spray carb cleaner at the flange/head interface. Using propane doesnt have an effect on it (but it does when I point in right at the carb throat).
 
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