Transmission Repair

[Troy_99]

Hello, Buellers.
After waiting many years for the right opportunity, I am now a proud owner of a 2006 XB12R. She's a beauty, but she came with a nice parting gift. When shifting into 2nd gear, as I slowing release the clutch, the gear doesn't engage. (like it's still in neutral, but it's not) Then if I rev it up it will jerk forward and catch into gear. Bad, I know, I'm not driving it anymore until I fix it. Also while it's in 2nd, the gears locks up and prevents me from shifting into another gear. That is until it re-engages gear. I've spent the last week reading every other thread I could find with related tranny symptoms and from my research, it sounds like it's my shift fork (part# 34157-06). I've already ordered it along with landing some other used transmission parts including a shift drum (see part pic).

So I wanted to ask you kind sir's if one of you wouldn't mind uploading the transmission disassembly steps from the '06 service manual. I've downloaded the provided '05 manual but I understand that has an older transmission as it was updated to the helical-cut from '06 on. (does that even matter?)

From your experience, what special tools do I need, if any?

Plus any helpful advice and tips would be very appreciated!
Thanks

 

[Theycallmecrash]

The procedure is basically the same between the years, removing the rear engine isolator from the engine gonna be a pain without a very short 1/4" allen. You will also need the transmission assembly pressed out and back in with new bearings if you see any problems. Be very very clear about putting your cam shafts back in the correct spots maybe take a before and after pic of the marks to compare. Actually splitting and mating the cases can be a pain also, dont use a screw driver to pry anything, use a non-scoring wedge. Good luck!!!

 

[Negative]

I DREAD the day when I have to dig into the transmission on my XB .... My S1 is gonna be a snap by comparison ... taking away that trapdoor was a terribly idea maintenance-wise ...

 

[calidaze]

I had Really Really similar issues a couple weeks ago.

It seemed like my clutch cable was getting lose on a my way home from a 3hr ride, hard shifting, clutch not fully disengaging. When I got home I pulled my clutch cable adjustment cover? and adjusted the clutch, took it for a spin around the block and all seemed well.

Went for a ride a couple days later and after a few miles I was getting similar issues to the ones youve described.

When shifting up to third or down to second it wouldnt want to go into gear. If Id let the clutch out and give it a little gas it motor would rev and then engage into the gear in a pretty violent way. Turned around to come home and not long after that I lost all tension on the clutch lever whatsoever. I figured my clutch cable had snapped.

So I just speed shifted her home and pulled the clutch cable adjustment cover again. The cable was fine and intact. So dug in just a little further and found a destroyed throwout bearing! The thing really fell apart, luckily all the bearings were still there but now theres shards and flakes and microflakes of metal in my primary oil.

I have yet replace the bearing and flush the oil(shes just sitting waiting for some love) so at this point Im praying that is what was causing the shifting issue and not something else, since the bearing is cheap and easy to replace. We'll see.

Anyways, have you checked your throwout bearing?

 

[Troy_99]

Thanks for the help and feedback guys, I'll be starting the investigative tranny disassembly soon and I'll post back any news.

@Calidaze - How do I check the throwout bearing? Newb here, sorry.

 

[Troy_99]

Can anyone tell me if the engine needs to be removed to access the transmission? '06 Buell XB12R

 

[Cosworth]

Yes, The engine case has to be split in half to get to the transmission.

 

[Troy_99]

Crap, that sucks. God Bless 'Merica!

 

[calidaze]

Remove the clutch inspection cover. It's on the primary cover near the shifter, it has 3 torx screws.

Remove the spring/locknut.

Then you turn the adjustment screw clockwise until it allows the ramp mechanism to be removed.

This ramp assembly is the first thing to check for proper operation. The two plates should slide smoothly in both directions without any binding.

Then what's left is the adjustment screw that's sitting in a bearing. Check the screw for any excess play or signs or wear to the bearning.

My bearings inner race actually pulled through allowing the screw to come out of the assembly. That's why I lost all of my clutch feeling.

If all seems well in there, then yes you may have to dig deeper.

Good luck

 

[Troy_99]

All seems well in the throwout bearing, thanks calidaze.
I would love to have a word with the Einstein who decided to make the 06+ transmissions very difficult to access and remove. I hope this little project doesn't become the bain of my existence!

 

[thrstrmech]

Sounds like shift forks may be worn, either way you've got to split the case to get to it. Invest into the proper tool in removing the retaining rings on the shafts or you'll be replacing 'em with new ones when you reassemble it. A dead blow hammer worked for me in splitting the case halves along with plastic wedges. Take your time during tear down and build up, replace the hardware ass needed or when recommended in the manual to do so. 1211 Three Bond was great to seal the case halves, although 25 bucks for a small tube, worth every penny and no leaks. Clean the case seal surfaces well before applying the sealant with lint free cloth and alcohol to remove any oily residue. Follow the torque pattern shown in the manual when you marry the case halves. Order an entire engine seal/gasket kit and go with cometic for the jugs, NRHS has 'em pretty cheap. Good Luck and let us know how it goes.

 

[UMDterp13]

Buy a complete bottom end on eBay & swap the top end. Usually less painful & easier down the road (if it's not done correct you will have leaks & random bolts fall out)

Dealer usually will charge $1000 or more-ish for that.

 

[gbalias]

^ i would disagree with that approach unless you wanted to ALSO rebuild the trans in the engine you removed.


itll cost you every bit of more than $500 for a new crank case, even on ebay. then youre dealing with an unknown items internal condition.

splitting cases isnt a big deal if you bag n label all the stuff youre taking out. its really only like 30 bolts....and thats for EVERYTHING! lol.


i just replaced my crank and everything went back together smoothly. used permatex motoseal on the case halves and not even any seepage. the trick is to let the seal cure over night at least before putting oil in there.

 

[Troy_99]

Thanks thrstrmech and gbalias.
Yeah I don't think swapping a bottom end would be wise, but thanks for the suggestion.

A few questions on your tips - please excuse my ignorance.

1. "Invest into the proper tool in removing the retaining rings on the shafts or you'll be replacing 'em with new ones when you reassemble it." You're referring to Snap Ring Pliers right?

2. "Order an entire engine seal/gasket kit and go with cometic for the jugs, NRHS has 'em pretty cheap."
So you're saying I need to buy a complete kit, a top end gasket kit won't do then? And is this what you're referring to? http://www.nrhsperformance.com/partsgaskets.shtml item# 88-C9857 - $144.96 - If that's the wrong product, please advise me to the correct one.

Thanks so much guys.

 

[gbalias]

top end kit wont do since youre splitting cases. youre gonna want to replace crank seal, cam cover gasket, primary gasket, etc.


heres the part # for a complete OEM engine gasket kit:
17058-02D

it comes with enough gaskets/seals for multiple year ranges so there will be some stuff leftover.

but that should get you going. i cant remember if ther trans seals are in there too.....may wanna research it.

i think Surdyke has em for $120 or so.

i also generally always replace snap rings. cheap insurance IMO. but the pliers are def a good thing to have in the box.

 

[bigflash1]

Sorry to hear about your trans issues. You are very correct to not
continue to try and ride. Very bad things can happen if you bend the shift forks further.

Not allot of details here, but I did the repair you are talking about myself.

Take a look here for some small details

http://www.buellxb.com/Buell-XB-Forum/Buell-Firebolt-XB12-XB9/Transmission-lockup

 

[bigflash1]

The vacuum gauge was pegged!

 

[jetlee]

Try adjusting your shift pawl before spreading the cases. Follow the manual's instructions.

When my bikes start hitting false neutrals, I re-adjust the shift-pawl and everything's back to normal for most of the season.

 

[Mash199]

Can you be more specific about what you did to readjust your shift pawl? I've been having this exact problem lately, 05 XB9SX. I tore into the primary and took a look, everything seemed to be in order.

 

[pdksh]

did anyone mention the primary cover clutch ramp? On all of my buells the clutch ramp shows various degrees of wear. If it has been mentioned, I apologize. When ever I stop my bike (lights/construction/traffic congestion) I pop the bike into neutral. I'm sure there are pros and cons about sitting in traffic in neutral. I do the same thing in a manual car. Excessive use of the clutch while stopped is bad on manual cars, atvs and my Buell's clutch ramp.

Is there an adjustment for the shift paw on an XB? I can't remember? Isn't that the adjustment on an Tubber/Sportster that you use a drill bit as a feeler gage. I always thought that was pretty cool of HDMC.