XB12R/S Hiccup/Tuning

[Doc13]

So to preface I've had the bike since 2011, it's at 25,xxx Miles. Austin Texas is the location.

Mods:
K&N
Spec Ops Exhaust

Story:
Bike has always run fine, slight decel pop which never bother me (rich is better than lean). Recently (last month) the bike started to hiccup between 2-3K when just starting out. I've always warmed her up a good 10 minutes prior to riding...but for the first 5 miles or so every now and again that slight stutter would occur around the same place. Few weeks later it started to show a bigger stutter somewhere below 3k usually in 1st when I am riding out of my apartment complex and as time went on further and further away usually nothing more past the second stoplight.

Fast forward to today and I've done a TPS reset and just looked over my data. After the TPS everything seemed fine but I've noticed a few things and was just wondering what the community thought:

1. The hiccup went away for the first two days, on the 3rd about 15 minutes into a ride 25ish past initial start, it seemed like I got a hiccup in about 3rd gear between 2k-3k. Now I know these bikes aren't fans of anything below 3k and I usually ride it no lower but I wanted to play with the bike in all ranges just for troubleshooting purposes. Below 3k it is (as are most) very temperamental about throttle changes (on/off) which is expected but these random hiccups seem to come from steady throttle anywhere between 2k and 3k (possibly even slightly above). I've got 9 coughing coming up through the intake, no heavy backfires, no smoke, no lights, nothing. Nothing on hard acceleration and I don't feel like I'm losing power. Now onto what I've noticed (from a novice eye).

1. I checked my timing and (although I need to repeat this since it was late and after work) but it seemed as if at the initial point of firing the mark was almost to the left edge of the peephole. My initial thought is I need to recalibrate this but...that's waiting till later due to the rivets...(by the way wtf Erik...). Could this be that culprit? Also, wouldn't this create issues across the entire powerband?

2. I started mulling over my maps and I've noticed the general rule of the rear cylinder running richer than the front doesn't seem to apply. Now I'm the third owner and I'm 90% sure the second guy didn't tune this bike, but am unsure about the 1st. What does everyone think of the below?

3. My idle after the TPS seems too low in my opinion. Thoughts and I'm assuming since I've got the TPS set correctly that this may be due to the timing issue above?

Thanks for any comments and I realize without actual hands on, that is all they are: comments.

 

[Doc13]

Note: Fixing the images....

Complete

Note: Maps are Front/Rear on both Data and 3D. I also noticed even after a 15 minute ride with a fuel stop that the Cold Start Enrichment still had not dropped all the way to 100%.

 

[aestheticbiker]

When you do the tps reset ate you adjusting your idle screw to the tps volts stop decreasing and then continuing one full turn? And then resetting tps and then tightening idle screw to 5.4 volts and then without shutting bike off letting it idle until warm and then bringing idle up to 1100 rpm?

 

[aestheticbiker]

Because if I'm reading correctly seems your tps voltage is low a tenth of a volt makes a difference and your map will be advanced or retarded accordingly

 

[Doc13]

Aesthetic- I followed the procedure as out lined in the tuning guide as well as looked over the manual. I wound it out to zero, then about a turn more. Reset the TPS, then wound up to what it indicated (I believe 5.4 or 5.5), once I got the bike started I noticed the idle was low. The next day while it was warm I brought the idle up closer to 1k. This is all probably for naught since once it gets colder I'll probably adjust the timing and start over. I just figured talking about this now would do nothing but add some knowledge to the subject on my end.

 

[aestheticbiker]

Okay so reset the tps get that voltage again and then bring the idle up regardless of the tps and see how she does

 

[Doc13]

**Update**

So I played with the mapping, as well as worked with a friends. Long story short the bike runs much smoother in the top end for the most part, there are still minor hiccups down low but:

After making a few adjustment I reset the TPS and reset the AFV, I took a good 20 mile trip and for the first 10-15 miles (mostly highway) the bike ran great, no studder in the upper RPM's and everything felt smooth. The return 7 miles it ran like shit. When I pulled back in I threw it right back on the laptop and the only change was the AFV from 100 to 90. I reset it and took it for a spin around the neighborhood and it felt great, until I turned around (very short distance) and it ran like shit again...again the AFV was set to 90%. I've done this a few times playing with a few settings and the AFV always adjusts down to around 90-95%. I'm confused as to why the bike would run great, but then lower the AFV to a point where it's running horrible? To make things better the Adjustment cable decided to give out so now I'm waiting on that prior to any more time spent on it.

I get that the 02 is taking a reading in closed loop mode, saying it's too rich and leaning it out 10% across the map...? Am I correct on this and if so how should I proceed?

 

[wolfo68]

The way it's acting (not looking at your data) makes me think of an intake leak. any time your idle does something weird it's worth taking a look at, get some carb cleaner and spray the tb seals and see if it changes at all.
5.2 should put you up around 1100.

your tps voltage is low a tenth of a volt makes a difference and your map will be advanced or retarded accordingly

please explain this?...

 

[Doc13]

Wolfo,

Appreciate the input, once I get the new Idle adjustment cable I'll start there. But for what it is worth, the idle seems to be relatively fine. The issue is just off of idle on acceleration. My head wants to describe it as something like within 1-2 second after a load is put up on engine I.E. takeoff.

On the TPS Voltage I think what he is referring to:

The TPS sensor works on voltage. As the voltage increases it "means something" to the ECM. So if your settings are adjusted out of the standard range it would throw it off.

 

[wolfo68]

The voltage correlates to the percentage your butterfly is open, if the original position isn't set correctly this would be true, but that's the whole point of a TPS reset.

 

[Doc13]

Agreed.

 

[Matteson]

Changed the plugs lately? I also like wolfos advice. Keep it simple.

 

[Doc13]

Plugs are changed regularly. Including recently (once before the issue and again after it started).

 

[Theycallmecrash]

I dont think its intake seals, considering your AFV drops to 90. An intake leak would cause it to increase AFV.

So with that said, the bike appears to lean out and not like that, so its getting a false Air/fuel reading, maybe. Either a faulty O2 sensor, or depending on where it runs like crap, the map is rich in closed loop area, but lean in others, so a 10% change makes it run poor in those areas

 

[Doc13]

Crash,

I was thinking the same thing, which is why I tried copying a good map over from a buddy (manually) that lives in the same area and rides the same bike and I had the same issue. I'm thinking I'll swap the 02 out for shits and giggles and go from there. At least at that point I've eliminated the possibility.