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Racing thread
- Thread starter Kid1620
- Start date
Help Support Buellxb Forum:
it is hard to describe body position in written form, but you need to keep the tips of your feet on the pegs vs. the arch, this keeps your feet from dragging on the ground when leaning. I suggest doing a couple of track days first, but depending on your track, adjustments to your bike may need to be made. unless you are planning on getting out there and racing, I wouldnt worry too much about gearing or anything.
I was always taught to use the inside leg to apply pressure to the peg when initiating a turn, but once you are in a turn, keep the pressure and weight on the outside leg. You almost want to try and touch your handlebar with your chin while in a lean, and slide a bit off of the seat. The knee out part is a guideline, it lets you know how far you are leaned over, but your form will come in time. I started out pretty rigidly, but over a season or so I was able to adjust my body position. Most tracks will have a beginner class that will help you get acquainted with everything, and give you tips. I'd suggest taking the time to learn from the people who ride at your track as each one is different.
I was always taught to use the inside leg to apply pressure to the peg when initiating a turn, but once you are in a turn, keep the pressure and weight on the outside leg. You almost want to try and touch your handlebar with your chin while in a lean, and slide a bit off of the seat. The knee out part is a guideline, it lets you know how far you are leaned over, but your form will come in time. I started out pretty rigidly, but over a season or so I was able to adjust my body position. Most tracks will have a beginner class that will help you get acquainted with everything, and give you tips. I'd suggest taking the time to learn from the people who ride at your track as each one is different.
typically not, but check with your track first. Most tracks have a website that shows what all is required. For instance, mine requires that the bike is in serviceable condition (good brakes, no visible leaks, etc) and then the headlights, brake lights, and signals have to be taped or removed, and the license plate has to be removed. but that is about it for bike prep. If you get more into it you will more than likely spend a ton of money on stands, warmers, tent, trailer, etc... but I know a lot of people who just show up on their bikes wearing their leathers and a backpack with a screw driver, a couple bottles of water, and some painters tape. You typically dont have to worry about safety wire unless you are racing.
Normally for an intro session all that is needed is to remove mirrors license plate and tape up any non-easily removable items like turn signals and headlights/taillights.
Some ask for a hose clamp around the oil filter to keep it from loosening up.
Most of it depends on the track or org that your riding with so check with them.
And there will be a Tech Inspection for them to look over your bike to makesure there isn't any obvious issues with your bike, tire tread, brakes, fluid leaks, etc.
As far as form, be smooth with anything you do.
Body position, keep your shoulders and hips inline, so as you move from one side of the bike to the other your butt and shoulders should move together.
Don't just slide your butt off the seat and leave your shoulders in the same position.
Cornering, all depends on the track and what line you want to use.
Some ask for a hose clamp around the oil filter to keep it from loosening up.
Most of it depends on the track or org that your riding with so check with them.
And there will be a Tech Inspection for them to look over your bike to makesure there isn't any obvious issues with your bike, tire tread, brakes, fluid leaks, etc.
As far as form, be smooth with anything you do.
Body position, keep your shoulders and hips inline, so as you move from one side of the bike to the other your butt and shoulders should move together.
Don't just slide your butt off the seat and leave your shoulders in the same position.
Cornering, all depends on the track and what line you want to use.
Yeah I've read twist of the wrist and watched the movie thing they put out. Tons of info I put as much of it as I can remember into use everytime I ride. Made me a better rider too. Which is why I brought this up to get some more info about track prep and such. I can push harder then I am now but don't really want to do it on the streets. I still need to buy some more and better gear before I get my knee on the ground. Like riding pants that have knee sliders and a better jacket.
I'm thinking about buying different rims and mounting better tires so I can have a set for the track and a set for the street would that be a good idea?
I'm thinking about buying different rims and mounting better tires so I can have a set for the track and a set for the street would that be a good idea?
yeah, track tires get worn fairly quickly, especially if you are using them on the street too... You dont really need as soft of tire to do street riding as you would probably preffer to use on the track. For me, I just have a whole other bike that I use on the track...saved me from buying another set of wheels 
The softer the tire, the better it will grip when you are leaned over.
The softer the tire, the better it will grip when you are leaned over.
Where you planning on tracking at Dave?
Squidbuellie has it right you just need to do it to feel it out. Everyone rides a little bit different and every track needs a slight different set up. Mat Mladin and Troy Bayliss when they started both said they didn't worry about set up they just rode and worked on feel and diallig themselves. Two of the best superbike racers ever that both started late in life swear by that method. Also ya you do need to safety wire your bike but some of the schools will help you with it. I would just call and ask.
I do have a question for the racing masses, clutch vs back brake. For controlling wheelies which do you use? I started off using the clutch, it felt more natural and mat mladin swears by it. Then after doin some racing schools I was told the rear brake was best and I never got comfortable with it so I went back to the clutch. So whats your method of keeping the throttle pinned?
Dave, check this site out, good starting place for you.
http://midwestcaferacing.com/products/
Don't know if you're on the http://www.stlar.com forum, it's mostly just st louis riders. I don't really go there all that much, but they're fairly active. Lots of weekend rides, usually down to Bixby MO and other areas. Some bike nites, different meeting spots.
They also have a test the track day but that's really just for getting your toes wet. Cheap thrill at $30 (I think) but it's only 2 sessions. No safety wiring required, doubled up on jeans, good jacket, boots and gloves.
Regular track days are about $135 per day, I think there's a discount if you do both Saturday and Sunday combined. I don't think they require safety wiring for track days, only races.
http://midwestcaferacing.com/products/
Don't know if you're on the http://www.stlar.com forum, it's mostly just st louis riders. I don't really go there all that much, but they're fairly active. Lots of weekend rides, usually down to Bixby MO and other areas. Some bike nites, different meeting spots.
They also have a test the track day but that's really just for getting your toes wet. Cheap thrill at $30 (I think) but it's only 2 sessions. No safety wiring required, doubled up on jeans, good jacket, boots and gloves.
Regular track days are about $135 per day, I think there's a discount if you do both Saturday and Sunday combined. I don't think they require safety wiring for track days, only races.
I would suggest to anyone taking a Buell to the track that they "nut and bolt" it before they go.
My Buell has the 6mm rotor, but it looks like EBR may have discontinued it in favor of the 1190-style rotor. But if the new-style mounting kit will work on your stock rotor, I think it's a really nice item to add. I believe the new price is only $49.
I would also change my oil (motor and primary) before going and make sure your tires are in GREAT shape. You just want to focus on riding.
IMO, I think new track riders are too focused on body position. I think they should focus on more basic things first, like keeping their eyes up, trying to be predictable and on line and then focus on body position.
My Buell has the 6mm rotor, but it looks like EBR may have discontinued it in favor of the 1190-style rotor. But if the new-style mounting kit will work on your stock rotor, I think it's a really nice item to add. I believe the new price is only $49.
I would also change my oil (motor and primary) before going and make sure your tires are in GREAT shape. You just want to focus on riding.
IMO, I think new track riders are too focused on body position. I think they should focus on more basic things first, like keeping their eyes up, trying to be predictable and on line and then focus on body position.
You dont ride on the tips of your feet. You want the balls of your feet on the pegs(Just behind your toes) If your a bit hesitant of the lean angles you get on the track, pull half an ass cheek off the seat and stick your face where your mirror should be, elbow point right at the pavement. Look at your exit, all the way through it.
Body position can be talked through, but you wont get it fully until you get massive amounts of seat time. Seat time, seat time, seat time.
Body position can be talked through, but you wont get it fully until you get massive amounts of seat time. Seat time, seat time, seat time.
