Front brake still pusling! $400+ later

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Loki

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Bought new mounting hardware, cleaned and scrubbed the contact points on the wheel, new rotor, new res, new pads, and it is still ******. I have found out the problem though. There is a high spot on one of the mount points for the rotor!

I have shimmed it with another washer and then shimmed the two points next to the high point and it is better but it is still high. The wheel has no damage, is straight, etc.

Am I going to just have to buy another rim or does anyone have any idea how to fix this?
 
Well it seems like you touched all the bases, so I'm guessing you broke them in as well?
 
The wheel has zero damage on it and there are no stress cracks or melted paint, so there is no way that is got warped from heat, that much heat would show damage.

With the new rotor not being broke in, I placed the front of the bike on my stand and was able to spin the wheel and it would rotate very smooth on all the spokes but one. Marked that one to figure if it was the problem and started spinning again. It was enough grab on that one spot that you could really feel it.

So I started playing around with adding or taking shims (the concave washers form the old setup) and putting them on the high spot, the others around, to see if I could get it better. I DID get it better but there is still a high spot. But adding one more washer makes it to much adjustment and the rotor will then be worse then before.
 
I see no dot on the rotor nor was it mentioned in the installation instructions. Did that only apply to the old rotor and old hardware?
 
I asked this in your other thread.

On the original rotor it is painted on (green IIRC) the EBR rotor has a machined dot.
 
I spent big bucks on a new EBR rotor, mounting hard ware, new pads and had it professionally installed by a certified Buell tech and my **** pulsates at high speed braking. I just gave up trying to fix it :(
 
The dot shouldnt apply to the ebr 5mm rotor. It states of the paper that the 6mm needs to be facing out (nothing said about the valve stem) and that the 5mm can be mounted either side out.
 
OK, took the whole rotor off looking for any dot you guys were talking about. There is absolutely none on there. But I still took your advice and moved the part that was pulsing to the closet mounting point to the valve stem.

It is A LOT better but there is still a tiny rub at one spot. I want to know if you guys think it could be an issue after I go bead in my pads to the rotor. Here is a video for better reference. I know, I sound funny.

 
I get a little pad rub too when spinning the wheel, I think you will be ok though. Mine doesn't pulse at speed. Hopefully that sorted it all out man.
 
Well my original rotor off my 2005 xb9r has a machined dot in it, and the manual specifically says to have it facing in(or out, don't recall) and closest to the valve stem as possible.

Not to brush off your issue, but is it really that bad? Are you just being oversensitive? Any rotor with holes or slots will not feel "smooth". I can see someone thinking the stock rotor is pulsing, when it is actually not, because of it being drilled.

EDIT just watched your video and I see why you're complaining now. Doesn't seem normal.
 
Yeah, went for a short ride. Forgot to pump the pads back to the rotor in the video, its exactly the same. Brake will still lock up when riding. I think it is caused by the heat from rubbing. Ill have to pull over and wait till it releases.

And now I think my rear brake master gave out.... Im so tired of problems!

By bike has brake problems, needs a tune (not its fault), needs a fuel pump, has a rattle I cant find, shifts hard even after I just changed the oil. Man between by bike and car problems, I'm surprised I am still able to get anywhere.
 
I didn't realize that you bought the 5mm rotor..... With that being said.
Pull the rotor off, lay it on a flat suffice and see if it is flat..... Then send it back.... Because I doubt it's flat.
The 5mm Ebr rotor is crap period.
The 5mm rotor is a reject out of spec stock rotor that did not make the flat mill cut. that is why they are cheaper and thinner then stock. Think of it as a set of car rotors that have been turned, they still work but are not as good as new.
 
I didnt know that, I thought it was better then the stock. I will take it off and put it on something flat. I will also send EBR a message.
 
So they use a reject rotor on the 1190 in AMA? [confused]

I doubt it will help but in every pic I see of this rotor mounted including on the 1190 the slots are going this / direction into the caliper.
 
So they use a reject rotor on the 1190 in AMA?
Click to expand...


Do you really want me to answer that question?........do you have any idea of how a manufacturing company works? Why they don't pull the parts off the shelf for their race bikes. Why a factory race bike is $65,000....
I could go on......
Poo-Barf-Emoticon-200-by-400-filter-effect-2.gif
 

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