Catch Can V2.0

I hope all the dirt will have gone after breather reroute mod. Next check at 30000 miles after 10000 miles when I will change spark plugs again.

I have finished breather reroute mod, installed the catch can and test ride the motorcycle. So far it works with no issues.




Here is installation process.

Remove sit





Remove airbox cover





Remove air filter cover





Remove air filter, secure the inlet hole, unscrew the airbox baseplate





Remove the hoses from the airbox baseplate. I just cut them off







Push air velocity stack rubber lip down the airbox baseplate hole





Push the temperature sensor down to remove it from the grommet





Remove airbox baseplate





Cut off hoses zip ties and unplug the hoses from the PCV valves





Unscrew two front oil cooler fasteners





Attach the catch can with two new longer fasteners from the breather reroute kit I listed previously. Apply Loctite 271 red on them and torque them according service manual





Cut some transmission hose from the breather reroute kit I listed previously and stick it in the hoses holes in the airbox baseplate from the bottom like it is shoved on the picture below





Trim the hose ends on opposite side like it is shoved on the picture below

Cut three hoses from transmission hose from breather reroute kit I listed previously. I found the best lengths for them are 129 mm, 280 mm and 301 mm. Connect them to the Y-fitting from the breather reroute kit I listed previously





Secure the hoses on the Y-fitting with zip ties





Connect 129 mm hose to the frond cylinder PCV valve





Route the 301 mm hose down to the catch can along the left side of engine front cylinder passing the wires harness





Connect the 280 mm hose to the rear cylinder PCV valve





After this you should see something like this





Secure both hoses attached to the PCV valves with zip ties





Attach the 301 mm hose to the catch can fitting and secure it with stainless steel hose clamp from breather reroute kit I listed earlier. Make sure none of the hoses touches the engine. Use zip ties to secure the 301 mm hose to the wiring harness to prevent contacting it with engine case





Done! Assemble everything back.








The stainless steel air filter located on the back side of the catch can and secured by frame elements from dust and rain

that was a constructive comment lol

After first day riding there is no moisture inside catch can.

The simple process of the existing hot air in that box, combined with cooling after shut-off and exasperated by drawing in yet more cool air from the vent, will cause the suspended liquid vapors to condense in the form of moisture, that never came from the engine

You can get moisture in the can with ZERO input from the engine. Especially if its metal, especially if its big, especially if its near the engine.:tongue-new:

This freaks out some overzealous non-mechanics, when the box is opened and the murderous, mayhem, of 'milky' oil presents itself to the visual orbs causing the shriek of ghastly wallet pain as the only option is total engine replacement:mad-new: Nooooooooo!:upset:

Or ignore it and just go riding


Fer realz though, put a little bit of absorbent material in there. I'm totally serious when... right now, I'm going to say, right below here... "Tiny maxi-pads work very well".


Tiny maxi-pads work very well. The inner layer absorbs your discharges, but will still show the nasty discharges you could have that warn of problems in your box, and might even require an exam:upset: While the outer breathable layer keeps everything in your box clean. I'm not sure how big your box is, but shoving a pad that fits, will keep you box clean and dry... ready to impress all the guys that see your box. Oh and you won't need that silver thing screwed in your other hole either. The pad will allow fresh air into your box even with your big hole open.:applause:

Cooter said:

The simple process of the existing hot air in that box, combined with cooling after shut-off and exasperated by drawing in yet more cool air from the vent, will cause the suspended liquid vapors to condense in the form of moisture, that never came from the engine

You can get moisture in the can with ZERO input from the engine. Especially if its metal, especially if its big, especially if its near the engine.:tongue-new:

This freaks out some overzealous non-mechanics, when the box is opened and the murderous, mayhem, of 'milky' oil presents itself to the visual orbs causing the shriek of ghastly wallet pain as the only option is total engine replacement:mad-new: Nooooooooo!:upset:

Or ignore it and just go riding


Fer realz though, put a little bit of absorbent material in there. I'm totally serious when... right now, I'm going to say, right below here... "Tiny maxi-pads work very well".


Tiny maxi-pads work very well. The inner layer absorbs your discharges, but will still show the nasty discharges you could have that warn of problems in your box, and might even require an exam:upset: While the outer breathable layer keeps everything in your box clean. I'm not sure how big your box is, but shoving a pad that fits, will keep you box clean and dry... ready to impress all the guys that see your box. Oh and you won't need that silver thing screwed in your other hole either. The pad will allow fresh air into your box even with your big hole open.:applause:

Click to expand...

Talk about innuendoes!
Hilarious! And constructive! Another homerun from Cooter, the discharge expert!

That is freakin' hilarious, Cooter!

Shaughn, fantastic work. I've come across many a box that could've used some "FRESH AIR"

Cooter said:

The simple process of the existing hot air in that box, combined with cooling after shut-off and exasperated by drawing in yet more cool air from the vent, will cause the suspended liquid vapors to condense in the form of moisture, that never came from the engine

You can get moisture in the can with ZERO input from the engine. Especially if its metal, especially if its big, especially if its near the engine.:tongue-new:

This freaks out some overzealous non-mechanics, when the box is opened and the murderous, mayhem, of 'milky' oil presents itself to the visual orbs causing the shriek of ghastly wallet pain as the only option is total engine replacement:mad-new: Nooooooooo!:upset:

Or ignore it and just go riding


Fer realz though, put a little bit of absorbent material in there. I'm totally serious when... right now, I'm going to say, right below here... "Tiny maxi-pads work very well".


Tiny maxi-pads work very well. The inner layer absorbs your discharges, but will still show the nasty discharges you could have that warn of problems in your box, and might even require an exam:upset: While the outer breathable layer keeps everything in your box clean. I'm not sure how big your box is, but shoving a pad that fits, will keep you box clean and dry... ready to impress all the guys that see your box. Oh and you won't need that silver thing screwed in your other hole either. The pad will allow fresh air into your box even with your big hole open.:applause:

Click to expand...

Now THAT is funny as hell and you said discharge and box plus hole to many times Cooter and had me on the floor laughing!!!!! I love this place!!!!

Cooter said:

The simple process of the existing hot air in that box, combined with cooling after shut-off and exasperated by drawing in yet more cool air from the vent, will cause the suspended liquid vapors to condense in the form of moisture, that never came from the engine

You can get moisture in the can with ZERO input from the engine. Especially if its metal, especially if its big, especially if its near the engine.:tongue-new:

This freaks out some overzealous non-mechanics, when the box is opened and the murderous, mayhem, of 'milky' oil presents itself to the visual orbs causing the shriek of ghastly wallet pain as the only option is total engine replacement:mad-new: Nooooooooo!:upset:

Or ignore it and just go riding


Fer realz though, put a little bit of absorbent material in there. I'm totally serious when... right now, I'm going to say, right below here... "Tiny maxi-pads work very well".


Tiny maxi-pads work very well. The inner layer absorbs your discharges, but will still show the nasty discharges you could have that warn of problems in your box, and might even require an exam:upset: While the outer breathable layer keeps everything in your box clean. I'm not sure how big your box is, but shoving a pad that fits, will keep you box clean and dry... ready to impress all the guys that see your box. Oh and you won't need that silver thing screwed in your other hole either. The pad will allow fresh air into your box even with your big hole open.:applause:

Click to expand...

Haha bravo bravo. Good little story about the PAD in a BOX..

Cooters, Back in the House. :applause:

After a couple days of commute there are oily mist and splashes around the filter area. I'm glad this stuff does not go on the valves anymore.

I would say that is EXCESSIVE amounts of oil!

Also, what happened to this catch can preventing oil squirting your motorcycle and polluting the environment?

TPEHAK said:

Same thing for catch can, you might think system works without catch can, but when something happened it will squirt you motorcycle with oil or flood the breather line or pollute environment. So you do need catch can if you care what can happen.

Click to expand...

Your catch can does both of those.

It goes outside just a little bit, some mist condenses on the stainless steel exhaust and sprays surrounding area, but the most oil stays inside the catch can.

You can reduce this effect attaching air filter with long tube from catch can outlet hole and tube will go up. Moisture mist will be condensed inside the tube and condensate will flow down back inside the catch can.

Or you can fill inside space of the catch can with stainless steel mesh, or stainless steel sponge, or stainless steel wool. So the vapor will be condensed inside the catch can more effectively and stainless steel exhaust will have less condensed moisture on it.

I do not want to route long tube up, so if there will bee more oil around the stainless steel exhaust I will probably pack some stainless steel wool inside the catch can. But currently I'm OK with some oil mist around the air filter.

AZmidget91 said:

Air movement is cause by pressure differences.

Why are you fighting this? All I said was that the pcv system would work better routed in the Air box. If your catch can actually works, which it won't without a coalescing filter in it, you wouldn't get any oil in your intake.

Click to expand...

Kind of like what I said on page 2?

It works as it supposed to, most of the oil is collected inside the cavity. If you mean catch can must catch 100% of moisture otherwise it does not actually work, yes, you can assume it does not actually work. But even expensive multi stage air drying systems won't catch 100% of moisture, so they actually do not work too.

There is no escape to this labrinth of self-righteous reasoning.

Greatest thread and concept ever concieved.

The Pinnacle of perfection.

And the definition of Insanity.

Finally I have worked out full tank of gas (about 2.5 gallons). And check this out



One teaspoon of oily water!







So I confirm, this thing works just fine!

:eek-new: