Buell XB starter problems

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I installed the original Buell starter back with new All Balls starter clutch, but I feel it will leak as bad as the Rare Electrical starter because of the All Balls clutch does not have seal for the shaft.

I striped the starter covers with aircraft remover

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Masked the holes and surfaces

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Painted with wrinkle black paint

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Then installed the new clutch, packet the grease and assembled the starter

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Do not buy Rare Electrical starter because it does not have oil seals for the clutch. Here is the motorcycle after a few hours ride, oil is everywhere, on the muffler, under the starter compartment, even on the rear tire

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I removed the Rare Electrical starter and open the starter case and here is what I found. It looks like oil leaked from the gap between the front starter cover and the main body

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The starter is full of primary oil inside. The surfaces between the cover and the main body are not machined, they just have as casted finish, so oil just goes out the starter with no resistance

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There is no any o-ring seal or even groove for o-ring between the cover and the clutch bearing, oil just leak trough the gaps once engine heat build temperature and pressure in the primary cavity.

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No any seal on the shaft

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I installed the original Buell starter back with new clutch, I will see if is going to leak. The only place when the Buell starter can leak is the shaft because the new clutch does not have seal. But the Rare Electrical starter leaked everywhere including the area around the clutch bearing because it does not have O-ring. I have feeling that I will need to buy original Buell clutch with seal or just new Buell starter to replace the starter again. I hate to dig into the primary again and again :mad-new:

Do not buy any starter or starter clutch except original Buell starter or Buell clutch or if you are sure that the starter or clutch you are going to buy has all seals (starter cover should have o-ring around clutch bearing, clutch should have sealed clutch bearing itself, clutch should have seal inside the clutch tube for starter output shaft).
 
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Hey TPEHAK, just another update for ya. I've got another 4000 miles after I replaced the starter clutch with the HD number you have ($114). Works perfectly fine.
I'd like to reiterate the easy test will let you know if the clutch will leak. Just snap the starter clutch into the front starter housing and pour an ounce of oil on the pinion gear. You'll know right away if it's sealed or not... saving you the reinstall and mess later.

Thanks so much for posting, you certainly saved me! Sorry you're having issues with all this aftermarket stuff:(
 
Update. The motorcycle passed 1000 miles with All Balls Starter clutch H-D#31663-90 in the original starter, no oil leaks!
 
Update. Already 7000 miles on the All Balls starter clutch unit. No oil leakages, no slipping, works very well.
 
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I read previous posts about upgrading to the 1.4kw high torque starter. But there were several complaints about oil leaks. I called Rare Electrical,, and they have improved their starters with an O-Ring at the front bearing to prevent the leak. They sent me a pic of the update. I will also post this on one of the other starter threads.

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ohh and hey... whats involved with replacing this part... like is it an engine out or just drop fward... kinda hopping it can be done in place? cheers
 
Read the thread, all the options are there. The choice is yours.

You can get the step-by-step starter removal instructions from the free manual download at Buellmods.com or Buelltooth.com. You don't need to rotate the engine, but you do need to pull the primary. No need to remove the clutch basket to get at the one 1/2 hidden bolt, take out the easy one first, then cheat the second one with a ball-ended allen. Starter comes right out.
 
Read the thread, all the options are there. The choice is yours.

You can get the step-by-step starter removal instructions from the free manual download at Buellmods.com or Buelltooth.com. You don't need to rotate the engine, but you do need to pull the primary. No need to remove the clutch basket to get at the one 1/2 hidden bolt, take out the easy one first, then cheat the second one with a ball-ended allen. Starter comes right out.

do I need to down load the 2009 Service Manual thing for the tarter removal?

Parts arived to day from all balls... so, expect a few questions
 
If you are unsure, then I would definitely suggest downloading the .pdf manual from buellmods.com or Buelltooth.com and reading the whole procedure a couple times before tearing into the bike. Then you'll understand my little trick:up:
 
Did you guys use a paper gasket between the starter and the crankcase? I just ordered a Sportster gasket and it came in thin paper, not steel like the one I removed.
Just curious. I don't want to wait the 2 weeks to get the steel/rubber gasket from the States to Canada where I live. Plus itll be 60$ more than the one I have already.

Also, side note for anyone in the future looking for tips, removing the snap ring that hold the overrun clutch to the other piece is a pain in the ass. If you can afford it, just buy the two assembled already. I wasted a night on it, then needed the GFs help the next day and in no time she was cursing like a true mechanic. Not sure if there is a special tool for it but I had to modify the snap ring pliers that I bought for the job.
 
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