04 XB12R cold idle issues
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I'm glad the post was that long, it has the detail that is required 
So, in short, you enriched the idle in the map, increased the CSE a little to help, then corrected EGO.
I remember spending a lot of time last year trying to lean out my maps to reduce popping (I get a lot of decel pop). I reflashed back to stock race map after that so any changed I made should have been lost.
Thanks for the feedback Negative, I will have a go at enriching the maps to start with, and if that works I will then pretty much follow what you did.
Oh, question: where is your idle adjust? Is it the TP?
So, in short, you enriched the idle in the map, increased the CSE a little to help, then corrected EGO.
I remember spending a lot of time last year trying to lean out my maps to reduce popping (I get a lot of decel pop). I reflashed back to stock race map after that so any changed I made should have been lost.
Thanks for the feedback Negative, I will have a go at enriching the maps to start with, and if that works I will then pretty much follow what you did.
Oh, question: where is your idle adjust? Is it the TP?
I'm very glad I could help ...
I had to richen up my idle values in my fuel maps to begin with before I even started tuning the bike itself because of the modifications I had done to the bike ... the stock values were a little too lean to promote a stable idle with what I had done (K&N and Jardine exhaust = more air through the motor)... After I got myself in the ballpark with the maps (basically I added about 5% or 6% to what was already there to try and get things rolling), I started the bike and let it warm up to temp ... Used my idle screw to bring the rpm's up around 1050 ... Looked at my ECMspy to see what the EGO correction was reading ... Then killed the bike, adjusted the squares the bike was using for idling on the fuel maps, and restarted the motor to see where I had gotten myself ... It took a while of "start-adjust idle screw to 1050 rpms-make note of EGO correction-kill bike and apply changes to maps-repeat" but eventually resulted in a stable idle ... I went ahead and richened up the CSE also to help cold starting with the increased airflow as well (I mean, if It moves more air when it's warm and ends up on the lean side ... why wouldn't this happen when it's cold too!?) ... It seemed to help with starting and cold idling some (i.e. it didn't die 5 times before it finally decided to start running on it's own) ... I got rid of my decel popping by putting the bottom row (the same tps value row that the idle uses) down to like 10 or 15 and ramping it up some around the 1700 and 2300 rpm collumns to let it ease back into the fuel rather than going from a straight row of 10's back into an 80-something cell ... I'll upload a picture of the map I'm talking about to help explain ...
Now as far as "Idle adjust" ... If you mean the engine's idle SPEED adjustment ... that's the little allen screw on the front of the bike by the left air scoop (as you sit on the bike) that you screw all the way out to do a tps reset ... as you screw it in/out it opens/closes the butterfly in the throttle body to allow more/less air into the motor ...
screw it out = less air = slower idle ... screw it in = more air = faster idle ...
I really hope I'm understanding your question there man ... I can't really think of another "idle adjust" on the bike right off hand ...The reason I'm messing with it at all is because as I changed my map values, the idle speed would fluctuate due to the fuel/air mixture being slightly different and it would either rev slightly faster or slower depending on whether it was richer or leaner than where it was the previous go-around...
I had to richen up my idle values in my fuel maps to begin with before I even started tuning the bike itself because of the modifications I had done to the bike ... the stock values were a little too lean to promote a stable idle with what I had done (K&N and Jardine exhaust = more air through the motor)... After I got myself in the ballpark with the maps (basically I added about 5% or 6% to what was already there to try and get things rolling), I started the bike and let it warm up to temp ... Used my idle screw to bring the rpm's up around 1050 ... Looked at my ECMspy to see what the EGO correction was reading ... Then killed the bike, adjusted the squares the bike was using for idling on the fuel maps, and restarted the motor to see where I had gotten myself ... It took a while of "start-adjust idle screw to 1050 rpms-make note of EGO correction-kill bike and apply changes to maps-repeat" but eventually resulted in a stable idle ... I went ahead and richened up the CSE also to help cold starting with the increased airflow as well (I mean, if It moves more air when it's warm and ends up on the lean side ... why wouldn't this happen when it's cold too!?) ... It seemed to help with starting and cold idling some (i.e. it didn't die 5 times before it finally decided to start running on it's own) ... I got rid of my decel popping by putting the bottom row (the same tps value row that the idle uses) down to like 10 or 15 and ramping it up some around the 1700 and 2300 rpm collumns to let it ease back into the fuel rather than going from a straight row of 10's back into an 80-something cell ... I'll upload a picture of the map I'm talking about to help explain ...
Now as far as "Idle adjust" ... If you mean the engine's idle SPEED adjustment ... that's the little allen screw on the front of the bike by the left air scoop (as you sit on the bike) that you screw all the way out to do a tps reset ... as you screw it in/out it opens/closes the butterfly in the throttle body to allow more/less air into the motor ...
screw it out = less air = slower idle ... screw it in = more air = faster idle ...
I really hope I'm understanding your question there man ... I can't really think of another "idle adjust" on the bike right off hand ...The reason I'm messing with it at all is because as I changed my map values, the idle speed would fluctuate due to the fuel/air mixture being slightly different and it would either rev slightly faster or slower depending on whether it was richer or leaner than where it was the previous go-around...
It was literally just that. I call that the TP adjust. Was wondering if there was another idle adjustment
Looking forward to some tuning time on the bike using your posts as something to go by. I'll let you know the results (maybe later today, maybe the weekend).
Thanks!
Looking forward to some tuning time on the bike using your posts as something to go by. I'll let you know the results (maybe later today, maybe the weekend).
Thanks!
Excellent!!!... Looks like we had the same thing in mind after all... But while that screw does adjust the TPS in a fashion that's not it's only function, it also opens and closes the butterfly on the throttle body to speed up or slow down the idle speed of the motor... So in a way we're both right... Hahaha...
.... I'm really glad I can help get ya started... Hopefully this sets you on your way to getting it tuned out like.... I'm can't take credit for developing this method tho, and if you REALLY wanna dig into the guts of ECMspy tuning go to the "150 helpful links" sticky thread in the "General Bike Chat" section of the forum and read through all of the ECMspy threads you can find... The "HUGE ECMspy thread" was what really cleared up a lot of foggy areas for me... If you need any explaining I'll do my best to help out, but by no means am I an ECMspy guru... I've just got a decent grasp on it's function and a good understanding of how closed loop fuel injection works...
Good luck man...
.... I'm really glad I can help get ya started... Hopefully this sets you on your way to getting it tuned out like.... I'm can't take credit for developing this method tho, and if you REALLY wanna dig into the guts of ECMspy tuning go to the "150 helpful links" sticky thread in the "General Bike Chat" section of the forum and read through all of the ECMspy threads you can find... The "HUGE ECMspy thread" was what really cleared up a lot of foggy areas for me... If you need any explaining I'll do my best to help out, but by no means am I an ECMspy guru... I've just got a decent grasp on it's function and a good understanding of how closed loop fuel injection works...
Good luck man...
Hmm. Went and had a fiddle with the bike. Upped the CSE about 3 points at the 2 lowest settings, set the 4 idle blocks for front and rear (basically the 4 that are lit up when in idle) up 5 points as a starter. Bike manages to idle longer before dying. OK good, we're getting there. Wait, EGO is 105.3%? Hmm OK add another 3 points to the 4 idle blocks. EGO is still 105.3%. Eh, OK, add another 5 points why not. Not any better. EGO is still 105.3%.
Somethings wrong here.... Am I going in the wrong direction and EGO @ 105% is the max it will go? 105% means lean it out or enrichen?
I tell ya what. For someone who works in IT, this computer is baffling me
I know 9 v 12 are different, but could you post some screenies of your front or rear maps so I can see how far out I am? Or does anyone else have screens of 2004 XB12R maps with K&N and some sort of decent pipe?
Ta.
Somethings wrong here.... Am I going in the wrong direction and EGO @ 105% is the max it will go? 105% means lean it out or enrichen?
I tell ya what. For someone who works in IT, this computer is baffling me
I know 9 v 12 are different, but could you post some screenies of your front or rear maps so I can see how far out I am? Or does anyone else have screens of 2004 XB12R maps with K&N and some sort of decent pipe?
Ta.
Well, I'm glad I stumbled upon this thread. It seems like after changing my ECM out with another that I'm having the same issue. It idles and runs great when warm but until it gets up to temperature it idles low and wants to stall, often succeeding. It looks like I have some tuning to do.
Well, I took the easy way out... After reading around about people putting the stock exhaust on and keeping the "race map" I started thinking about that too. After another ride to see if things had magically fixed themselves, I realized that it felt like it was rich (bogging a bit here and there and a little lumpy at constant throttle) all over the charts. Comparing the race map to the stock map, it appears that the race one was more lean almost all over, against what I expected, especially where my idle problems were at. I also realized that after a ride, starting it back up while the engine was warm, it was bogging down then too so it wasn't just a cold idle issue.
I updated the ECM maps yesterday, bumped my TPS up to 5.5 (had been sitting at 5.1) and took a ride. Idled when the engine was cold, ran great, and started right back up to idle when it was warm from the ride.
I updated the ECM maps yesterday, bumped my TPS up to 5.5 (had been sitting at 5.1) and took a ride. Idled when the engine was cold, ran great, and started right back up to idle when it was warm from the ride.
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