05 xb9sx checklist

[Fielding05xb9sx]

Hey gang, happy holidays. Sending my 05 xb9sx city with 13k miles in to a local vtwin shop on the 3rd to have my force exhaust installed. I have the buelltooth module for them to use also. I’ve only had the bike for around 3 months. I’m also having the muller power clutch installed as well as new grips, pazzo levers(if they arrive in time), and k&n air filter. Going to have them probably install new or lube up clutch cable as mine currently is hard to pull. Was wondering what other “mods” I should have them look at while it’s in the shop. I’d do it all myself but time is something I don’t have working 70+hrs a week. I also have a big bore kit from hammer performance on a set of heads that were intended for an old bike(same model and year), would yall recommend having them install this now or save some money and wait till…i need new heads or just itching for more? I’ve read that the force exhaust can take away torque from the low end and seeing how I just use this around the city to torque around, how could I gain that back? I’m also interested in a new gauge as I’d really like to have a gear indicator, fuel level indicator, digital speedo. Looked into Koso but also interested in chigee and carpuride for the phone mirroring but need to look further into them and see if some models have gear and fuel indicators.

 

[Cooter]

You won't get a fuel gauge just by adding the gauge, you need a sender installed in the tank. Possible, but not worth it when you already have a trip meter and a low fuel light to let you know, IMO. You might get a gear indicator, but I don't think most of those gauges would do it. You'll need one that calculates RPM/Speed, not one that needs the 'what gear am I in' input from the bike.

The power you'd be gaining or losing with exhaust or ECM changes can be seen on a graph, but doubtful you'd notice on the bike. I'd save the Hammer kit until you know for sure this shop can handle it. If you're new there, get a few things done before giving them the hard one.

 

[34nineteen]

NCCR makes something like that. You may want to contact Jens to see if it will do a gear indicator (speed/rpm) also.

https://ebutik.nccr.se/aim-motorspo...2-strada-icon-instrument-cluster-for-buell-xb

 

[Fielding05xb9sx]

Ok so, just got a call from my mechanic and they are having trouble tuning. They need me to fill out a tune file request form on revmo. In the form revmo asks which tune I would like, however, their options are for Buell race kit, d&d, or revmo exhaust system. I contacted revmo and waiting for a response. I contacted forcewinder and they sent me to Nick with IDS. Contacted Nick and he said for an 05 the closest match they have is their p&a (Buell race exhaust) upgrade and I have to send in my ecm to have them flash it for $100. Total newb and technologically delinquent, so my question(s) are how would they not have a map for my specifics? I’m guessing no one has done a map for this year and exhaust before? Would “closest match” still be ok or would I be shorting myself? Any suggestions on best option for me?

 

[Barrett]

Go with Nick @ IDS and his "closest match" suggestion. IDS is the absolute best out there. $100 well spent.

 

[Fielding05xb9sx]

Finally had the time and weather to pick my bike up this week. Got the muller power clutch, pazzo levers, and forcewinder exhaust and they tuned it using rev mo Buell race map which the guy from rev mo said is the same thing nick at ids had. Started it up and it idled great at around 1k but noticed at my first stop light the rpm’s stayed at 2k. About 2-3 miles into the trip I came to a stop light and kicked it into first gear and it kind of hissed and the headlights went out and the rpms dropped down to 1k and it kinda bogged but never died. It went away within 30seconds and rpms back up to 2k headlights on. Went about another mile and same thing happened. About .25 miles from my house in second gear I took my hand off the throttle and the bike never bogged down, as if it was automatic it kept rolling. I also had new grips installed. Got home put it in neutral and it would not come down from 2k rpm. I was told he performed a tps reset after the tune from rev mo. Fired it up last night and it stayed at 1k rpm but I kept hearing like an occasional fuel injector priming noise right by where the front head exhaust comes out, don’t know if it’s normal but just something I noticed. Didn’t get to put it in gear and ride it. Lastly, the brake light lights up when I hit the rear brake but kinda blips for a millisecond when I hit the front brake and never fully lights up. Thoughts? Called mechanic he had nothing helpful to say other than hmm. Spent nearly $1k getting all this done so any help that I could steer my mechanic in would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Fielding05xb9sx]

Oh I also had a new head temp sensor installed. The mechanic is a Harley mechanic but I’m getting the impression he had the apprentice do the levers and tuning.

 

[Cooter]

You spent a thousand dollars at a mechanic shop and it runs like that?? I'd ask them the questions, not us! LOL.
and you need this:
https://st-paul-harley-davidson-bue...-9-genuine-buell-front-brake-light-switch-b1m

 

[Fielding05xb9sx]

Yeaa she’s alll messed up. Just went for a ride and I didn’t notice any loss of headlights but it sticks in 2k rpm occasionally at stops and I have to go between 1st 2nd and N to almost trick it out of it and it’ll go back to 1k. Also noticed when I got into 3rd and pinned the throttle sometimes it’d get up and go per usual and others it kinda bogged down and barely increased speed and it’d sound like it was choking. Sometimes it rides great, others it’s like it’s having a stroke. Shop is closed already but going to call them tomorrow and send it back in. I paid wayyy too much to get a bike back with upgraded parts that runs like ****.

 

[upaero]

Go with Nick @ IDS and his "closest match" suggestion. IDS is the absolute best out there. $100 well spent.

Nick is going to sell him the only thing he has, which the same Buell Race Kit tune.

 

[upaero]

bLaME tHe tUne iF yOu dIdN't paY iDs fOr iT.

 

[upaero]

Check the AFV, which will tell you if the ECM has either adjusted itself lean, or is trying to compensate for a problem like low fuel pressure. Also, it's ALWAYS a good idea to check fuel pressure FIRST, before any parts changes or tuning.

 

[Fielding05xb9sx]

Rode by the mechanics and had them take a look. Tested for intake leak and got nothing. Re checked the numbers in ecmdroid and everything checked out. When I reached out to rev mo they said “it’s not the Buell made tune. I suggest you check fuel pressure.” IDS said “I suspect your LFuel value (Buelltooth calls it the AFV) is likely less than 100% after riding. The lower value will likely result in a higher idle RPM and may be the cause of the weak performance when you give it throttle. You might want to set the AFV to 100%, disconnect the O2 sensor, and ride it for a test. If it runs well, then runs poorly again when you reconnect the O2 and run it for a few miles, your fuel map is probably not optimal, and/or the TPS is not zeroed properly.” Mechanics said they didn’t have time but to bring the bike back in this upcoming week and they will have to drop the engine to check fuel pressure which based on their behavior makes me think it’s more money out of my pocket because they were getting frustrated and ranting about how ****** the tune capabilities are for this bike specifically how ecmdroid doesn’t let them see more parameters. Went to researching and found that ecmspy has more in depth parameters, is this the case? In other words would ecmspy be able to tell them something more based on the issues im having? Lastly, I left the shop and kept riding for like another hour since the mechanic suggested just maybe the ecm has a learning curve that it needs to figure out on its own by simply being ridden. And what I noticed was when I get to a stop and the rpm’s stay at 2k I can get them down to 1k if I put it in first gear and slowly release the clutch without giving it throttle so the engine kinda bogs and blips down to 1k rpm then engage the clutch and it stays there. Could this be a gearing issue or maybe a throttle issue? The throttle has a bit of play in it before it engages and whenever it’s stuck at that 2k rpm it’s harder to bump through the gears namely 1st N 2nd and I couldn’t get it to N with the high rpm’s or at least I couldn’t get the N light to ever come on so I didn’t ever test if I was in N cuz I didn’t want to stall in the middle of traffic. But I’m wondering if maybe something to do with the muller power clutch they installed combined with the play in the throttle has something to do with it. Lastly the bike does pop a ton when I’m crusing and let off the throttle which I remember in other posts people said was not supposed to happen. It’s not full on backfiring but popping for sure, the exhaust has no muffler so not sure if that plays a part.

 

[upaero]

In Ecmdroid you can see every ECM parameter in real time from your phone. Most important ones are Warm Up Enrichment (WUE), engine temp (CLT), Air Temp Correction (IAT Corr), TPS Position (TPD) and AFV. Check out rev-mo.com/efitroubleshoot, toward bottom of page. First you should check fuel pressure so you can take that out of the equation. Also, I suggest not taking it to a mechanic who is going to trouble-guess everything. It's very easy to do diagnostics yourself.

 

[upaero]

If the bike runs fine with AFV locked at 100 that means the problem is NOT the map or TPS. The problem is with something related to closed loop. Also, you don't "drop the engine" to check fuel pressure. Stay away from IDS and your mechanic.