06 XB12X Sidestand Repair

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sparkycat

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Joined
Mar 22, 2007
Messages
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Location
Michigan
Just got a '06 XB12X with a wobbly stand. Before I could look into it more, down it went. A previous owner had Helicoiled the Case holes with the short version and what looks like 3/4" bolts. Stock bolt size is 1 1/4" I think, so not enough threads to hold that much weight.

The question, has anyone had experience using JB Weld on the case holes with a stud/nut setup for the sidestand bracket? I found 3/8" Allen head set screws (grade 8) of the right length. I was wondering if the JB Weld would bond the hole and grip the threads. The case is OK, no cracks I can see. The bolt holes were enlarged and threaded for the 5/16" X 3/4" Helicoils which pulled out. I can slip the 3/8" screw 3/4" into the holes in the case but would drill/tap the rest of the way to match the screw. The mounting bracket holes will need to be enlarged to match. I don't believe I could drill/tap and use a bolt, not enough meat to hold. I could hog it out to 7/16" but I wonder about the casting bosses being able to hold after removing that much material.

Has anyone added a support to the bracket which ties into a third bolt somewhere on the lower part of the engine?
 
You should be OK to drill and tap (CAREFULLY) to the next size up without compromising the bosses in the case. Mark the drill bit so you don't drill too far, use a bottoming tap and get the exact length bolt for the job, cut one if you have to. Don't over-torque and use red loc-tite. Sorry it fell over:(

FWIW the EBR's have a 3rd bolt on the kickstand bracket that actually bolts to the stock muffler to triangulate the mount.
 
You should be OK to drill and tap (CAREFULLY) to the next size up without compromising the bosses in the case. Mark the drill bit so you don't drill too far, use a bottoming tap and get the exact length bolt for the job, cut one if you have to. Don't over-torque and use red loc-tite. Sorry it fell over:(

Was thinking the same, check.

FWIW the EBR's have a 3rd bolt on the kickstand bracket that actually bolts to the stock muffler to triangulate the mount.

I'd thought about fabbing up an extra tab onto the stand mount that might bolt to a boss welded to the muffler. Still tossing it around...

Thank you!
 
has anyone had experience using JB Weld on the case holes with a stud/nut setup for the sidestand bracket?

YES

. I was wondering if the JB Weld would bond the hole and grip the threads.
YES

drain front and rear master cylinders....drain fuel tank to near empty...drain primary fluid...drain swingarm oil tank. takes about 1/2 hour to do them all then you have the benefit of replacing all with new fresh fluids.

put several large packing blankets on floor and lay bike over on right side. get help doing it. that makes the fix as simple as possible. you'll need to clean the hell out of the aluminum engine case holes. use the 24-hour to cure JB weld. it's the 2-part blend that is black and white and becomes light gray when blended. works well.

Upon 1st read it seemed like alot to go through...Makes more sense to setup a better work space and do a very thorough job since it may be a one time shot on an aluminum engine case that I'd like to keep! I have the 2 part, longer cure time, 5000 something PSI JB Weld, new so I don't have to stop mid repair because the tube is rock solid!

then upgrade the stand with this: part # L0174.4A8

factory is NLA...i still have a few new kits in stock.

Mine seems to have the large pin already. The S shaped spring plate seems to bind a little on the large pin causing the leg to not swing all the way forward. This mounting bolt issue happened as I was about to look the stand over. I would like to get as little play as possible and may opt for new stand pieces as I can find them. I can search for the sidestand part related posts.

Thank you!
 
What would the largest size bolt I'd want to try to tap the bosses for? Either SAE or Metric.


Plan A - Drill out to next larger size bolt and tap. Drill out stand mount holes to match.

Plan B - JB Weld grade 8 set screws into the bosses and use a gr 8 nut and gr 8 lock nut.

Hope I don't have to figure out what Plan C might be.
 
-I own two 07, XB12STT's
-Stand bolts on one of the bikes loosened
-It went down in dramatic fashion on a WSF Ferry shearing both bolts
-Fellow bikers helped me up and I put the stand in a carry bag
-Sat on the bike all the way across Puget Sound
-At home my wife held the bike while getting off and getting it up on stands
-I worked out the sheared 1/4” bolts
-I had made a wooden cradle for the muffler jacking points and can raise the bike fairly high
-With my wife steadying the bike I drilled tap holes for 5/16” NC threads
-Taped the holes then cleaned them with break cleaner
-Reinstalled using copious amounts of Loctite Blue on the new Flange Bolt threads
-Did the same on the other bike
-This was years ago and nothings loosened since
 
I went with plan A.5 Bolt holes drilled and tapped for 3/8" NC studs. The holes were so big 3/4" in that I'd have needed a 7/16" bolt to get full threads for a bolt. I went to a smaller stud and will fill the hogged out area with JB Weld for support at the mounting surface. Should be dry out today so I'll finish up. I used a cherry picker to lower the cycle to the RH peg which was low enough to work on and allowed the hole to drain out the brake cleaner. I'll post pics later. Thanks for the replies.
 
As I put the stand back together, is there any use to the small diameter "pin" at the top of the pivot pin? It seems to keep the S-shaped spring bracket from completely moving forward keeping the stand from being pulled into it's "parked" position? Contemplating grinding it off.
 
Pics

Initial Helicoil breakdown.
Helicoil.jpg

Uly on lift for work
Cherry picker.jpg

Damage done by Helicoil repair and failure
Case.jpg

Drill and tap for 3/8" grade 8 set screw studs
Stud.jpg
 
While JB Weld is curing I adjusted the pivot pin to gain full range movement of stand into forward position
Pivot1.jpg
Pivot2.jpg

Muffler was looking sad so a coat of BBQ black
muffler.jpg
 
Finished. Dab of blue loctite on the nut for insurance with the lock washer. Rock solid. Stand swings forward and feels great. Thanks all!

Mount.jpg

Uly.jpg
 
The kits are quite expensive but well worth the investment but I like to keep a range of lengths of 1/4-20 and 5/16-18 TIMESERTs, way better than Helicoils for thread repairs.
 

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