07 Uly Fuel Pump

[CCP]

Hey, first post here, thought it might point me in the right direction.
07 Uly - 25K miles
Went out for a ride after sitting for a few winter months
Low fuel light - gassed up
Did 60 miles or so - ran great
On the way back - completely died - full electrical on the dash - no CEL
Would not restart until I cycled the switch - started up ran fine
Happened again a few mikes from home
Hooked up ECMspy - all Diags pass, No active or stored codes.

Cleaned tank vent
Cleaned catch can/ filter - which was pretty dirty
Ordered fuel pump for replacement -

Any other thoughts would be appreciated - this is not very confidence inspiring!

Thanks

 

[Cooter]

Welcome to the forum! Why did you decide to throw money at a fuel pump? Has it been an issue before? That's not typically how a fuel pump dies. Tee into the line and check running fuel pressure? What is the fuel pressure at WOT? Should be a rock solid 49psi, but you'd most likely see a code from going lean.

Since you are familiar with ECMSpy and you are totally sure "all diags pass" and no codes, the things that stop engines without codes are normal operations like turning off the fuel pump or ignition so I would use ECMspy to datalog a ride to see if it is electrical or fuel related.

A corroded fuel pump or ignition relay act like turning them off. Replacements are easy to find locally, ask Barrett

It could also be a corroded red run switch, losing contact there is literally the same as turning the bike off. Test continuity while wiggling it.

The CPS likes to die when the engine is hot. Use a heat gun or very nice hair dryer to heat it up while running.

 

[CCP]

Thanks, it did the same thing at the end of last year also, but I thought I may have hit the switch while adjusting the mirror.
Also had a bad connection on the ignition fuse which cost me a bicep tendon (loading it onto the trailer) so I've gone through and checked/greased all the grounds, fuses and relays.

Good point on the switch, didn't think of that.
I thought maybe the pump because I had to cycle the switch to get it to start. Along with the chaffing issues I read about, thought I would pull the pump.
(it is pushing 20 years old)
I will check the pressure - it does sound strong when priming and during the static diag.
I was running my heated gear also but the battery is pretty new and voltage is good.

 

[Barrett]

Good advice on checking the functioning of both the kill switch as well as igntion switch. Also check the 10A fuel pump fuse and its connectors inside the main fuse box. My money is on a failing fuel pump assembly. NIB now almost impossible to locate and price is exorbitantly high. Your original can be successfully rebuilt-to-new specs if you feel capable of doing the job. I sell complete full rebuild kits and also offer rebuilding service if that portion of the repair seems daunting to you.

 

[CCP]

Thanks for the reply. I was thinking pump but now not sure. I've gone over most of the connections / fuse box connections - all seem good.
A little corrosion on the negative battery terminal - not too bad - Grounds are good
I'll try to heat up the CPS and see what that does. Intermittent problems suck. I just did a test log to make sure i could do it, so I guess I go out and wait for it to fail. Really need a support vehicle!

 

[Cooter]

Why? I thought it starts right back up?

 

[Heavy18]

I had what sounds like a similar issue. For me it ended up being the ignition/key switch. I was able to recreate the issue in my driveway by giggling the key while the bike was running. A replacement part is pretty cheap - the part I bought was C0152.1AD - $44 shipped on ebay.

Good luck nailing down your specific problem.