The RFID shouldn't be used for energizing the ignition for that exact reason.
The RFID part should only activate (unlock) the starter button, (I added a light to tell me if it was unlocked)
Pressing the stock starter button will now either just cycle the ignition on and off, or energize the ignition and crank the bike at the same time (if you have the brake lever or clutch lever pulled, your choice). Now with the bike running, pressing the starter button again will kill the ignition. Slick! You can walk away from it running because the RFID doesn't control the ignition, it just unlocks the starter button. Exactly the way a new 'keyless' car works. Key in pocket, foot on brake, press start button. Press start button again to stop.
FYI, these bikes take a lot of CCA, so don't use the tiny relay in the cheap RFID box to crank the starter. Use it to energize the stock starter relay instead:up:
Interesting. How difficult was it to wire up this way?
And if I understand correctly, it sounds like the RFID basically takes the place of the kill switch, only allowing use of the starter button when it is engaged (which is fine with me).
So if this is the case, how do you turn on the gauges and such (first key position I beleive on the keyed ignition) before starting the bike? Do you have all of that wired into the killswitch so that it is all off when the killswitch is off, and the gauges and headlight come on when you engage the killswitch? Or do you have a separate toggle switch somewhere that turns on the dash and lights?
Sorry if that's a dumb question. I've been doing alot of reading on RFID ignition setups, but it's difficult to find a thorough guide on them, and I've always been more of a hands-on learner anyway.