1125cr front brake issues

[Belljm]

Hey guys, bit of a problem,
I just got the CR and all seems well, except the front brake. The lever is stock and feels quite stiff as if it "clicks" into place and just locks down the front wheel. The wheel doesn't feel encumbered until I pull on the lever. There isn't much travel in the handle before the wheel locks up and the whole front end jars forward. There is nothing gradual about it.

I've attempted to maneuver it different directions and I've gotten to where I can halfway predict it, but I still find it alarming how abrupt it is. This is my 4th motorcycle (2nd Buell) and I've never had this issue before.

Just thought I'd check with you guys, if perhaps I was missing something. I don't have a terrible amount of experience with braking systems, but I'm sure google can help me get a better understanding of what I'm up against.

Thanks.

 

[ocgreenmachine]

Have you checked the pistons on your calipers to see if they are dirty and are sticking? Also, how is the brake fluid level?

 

[34nineteen]

All of my Buells have had gummed up brakes for one reason or another.

My M2 needed everything ( I think someone mixed DOT 3 with 5).
XB's all had sticky pistons in the front caliper
1125CR had a sticking rear brake

 

[user_deleted]

assuming the lever perch...pivot pin...and lever are in good shape, moving freely and not showing any signs of crash damage or being dicked with by some PO.....your symptoms indicative of either a collapsed brake hose and/or master cylinder needing rebuilt. most likely a needy master cylinder. they're easy to rebuild and the kit inexpensive. before you dive into it at the very least remove the caliper and clean the piston seal areas of dirt, corrosion and brake dust....and remove the brake hose at both ends and blow thru with compressed air to confirm hose is not blocked/clogged. rebuild the master cylinder....EBC HH new pads(which i stock if needed)....and dot-4.

 

[Cooter]

I'm with Lunatic on needing the M/C re-built. Bleeding the brakes will knock a bunch of stuff loose in an old system as well.

In the meantime, remove the lever and grease the pivot a little (not WD-40... a dab of grease) and also put a dab of grease on the end of the M/C piston, see if that helps.

 

[34nineteen]

Like those two said, the M/C is easy and cheap to rebuild. I usually pull mine apart, clean it thoroughly and put it back together. You will need a set of long, thin snap ring pliers, though. Trying to do it with an off the shelf regular ones with the interchangeable tips may prove to be tricky. I have a set dedicated to it (and I use it on SRAM/Avid MTB brakes as well).

I like these:
https://www.sears.com/craftsman-2pc...6uLbo3NEHWBkxkeTkzggel_xewgD2ACxoCd50QAvD_BwE



Not a good choice:
https://www.qcsupply.com/oem-snap-ring-plier-set.html


I've been lucky and havent had to replace a the seals on any of my XB's, but my M2 had fluid contamination and the seals appeared to be deformed.

 

[Belljm]

Thanks for all of the help guys. The fluid level is exactly as it should be. Yesterday was warm so I tooled around a bit and it seemed to have eased up, but not as much as I'd like. If I work the lever a bit, it seems to ease the sharp grab and will allow me to slow to a stop. The lever setup looks fine; no indication of damage at all. I'll pull it apart and apply some grease first, if that isn't helping then I'll go into the more in depth ideas that you guys have presented.

Thanks again for all of your help.

-Jon