2005 XB9SX Super Part Out - ALL PARTS

[RuiP]

so you're saying we should do it the russian way over the american way?


BTW, has anyone gotten a reply to their PM?

 

[Internet Annoyance]

I think the Russian guy was a bit extreme,,, I am not going to replace piece by piece a box springs springs,,,,,,, but the point is we have become such a throw away society,, its just sad. Maybe its just because i drive old cars,,
(Nothing newer than 1975 in most cases) and spent years building old harleys and british bikes (my oldest is a 1932 BSA,, newest is a 1979 Triumph cafe racer project)

My Ducatis and these Buells are a significant departure from my normal bikes and cars

 

[DrogeN Omen]

how much you want for fly screen and headlight + light grill + gas mask???

 

[BuellsRuell]

I tend to agree...it's a shame to part this bike. [confused]

Throw it on eBay for $2950 BIN and someone will scap it up, fix the broken header stud and keep her ALIVE! [up]

Would sure be a lot easier for you, too....just sayin'.

 

[Red93stang]

I have sent him pm's and had no responce[confused]

 

[defconjuan]

Hey guys -- like I said, I posted when I made the decision and would post prices ASAP (but before the weekend.) I will get back to PMs as well (although all PMs are for dibs so sans pricing... whatcha want? I know you're excited, I'd like to see the parts go to a good home too..)

But I owe you guys a quick run down of why I'm parting it out. First off, I was raised to clean my chicken wings to the bone. There's no throw-away society going on here. I'm blue collar to the bone. I love my Buell and if this was going to be my primary bike -- or I hadn't exhausted a lot of options to fix this stud -- it would be a whole different story.

Here are the options I exhausted to fix the stud before deciding to part it:
* The stud broke when trying to remove it. It was pretty seized in there -- they all were. I had to use heat, cold, PB Blaster, magnets to draw the PB blaster up the threads, breaker bars, and extractor sockets to get all of the other three out.
* The top rear stud broke when using a stud extractor. There was plenty of stud exposed and left to work with.
* I paid a pipe-fitter friend to come over with his truck and weld a nut onto the stud so I could back it out.
* The stud broke again, this time almost flush.
* My gearhead buddy came over with all of his carbine tappers, extractors, etc and we decided to drill it out the stud so we could use an extractor bit.
* We created a small pilot in the center of the stud.
* We widened the pilot so that it would fit a carbide extractor. We hammered in the extractor, added a breaker bar, and the screw started to back out a touch more then BAM.
* The carbide extractor broke -- IN THE STUD. So basically, the steel stud now has a carbide core and is flush with the head.

Since then, I've spent 6 hours and ~$75 on tips to try to drill small pilot hole around the carbide with the hopes of "popping" out the broken carbide tip. If that worked, I'd imagine it would need to be drilled and retapped before even considering reassembly. The other option is find another head, replace it, and re-assemble the bike.

But why, only to trade it in or resell it next year when I'm going to be buying a Uly or a newer Dyna or Electra?

 

[sparky300]

Sorry to hear that stud was being such a pita. At this point, I prob would find a used rear jug, new rings and gaskets and put her back together.

I'm not judging anyone but to part out an entire bike with a single problem that is a relatively easy fix...I guess if you really need the garage space... or money.

To each his own. GL

 

[modrummer]

Interested in the stock fly screen and gas mask.

 

[Cheney]

I've had luck getting seized studs out with the help of a propane torch and wax. You can give that a shot if you can get the broken carbide tip out and get another extractor on the stud. As an example: Removing broken exhaust studs

 

[rsm688]

It's really not that hard to get an exhaust stud out, like cheney said you need a torch and use heat to make it easier. Any machine shop can get it out for you

 

[DrogeN Omen]

stick with it mate, this exact thing happened to me... i spent almost 100 hours slowly grinding out the broken carbide extractor and tungsten drill tip. my bike was off the road for about 7 months as i spent 3-4 hours carefully grinding away with a grinder ball tip and a dremel.

after that i heli-colied it, that was 3 years ago. bike was running fine after that and i still have it.

i was about to throw in the towel like you but am glad i didnt cause i love my bike.

i even had to do a $2500 top end engine replacement last month.

 

[Internet Annoyance]

Pull the head and take it to a competent machine shop with a EDM machine. The machine uses electrical arcs to eat away at the carbide and steel and leaves your alloy heads threads alone. While you at it perhaps use a time sert kit and NEW Studs.. Piece of cake. sure you have to pull the head and then reinstall,, but so what? These top ends are easy to work on, At the end of the day it IS your bike and you can do as you please, but that doesnt mean
that some people wont give you grief about the decision.
Jeezus, you think that repair is a PIA try owning a vintage British Bike.
"What we got here is a failure to communicate. Some men you just cant reach, thats why we got what we had here last week, Which is the way he wants it: Well he gets it, I dont like it anymore than you men"

 

[RuiP]

definitely a great looking bike defcon. [up] Good color combo too.

 

[defconjuan]

You guys almost talked me into keeping it. Alas, I cannot justify it given how many of you need parts, what it will take to get it where I want it, and the fact that I'm getting a new bike soon. Here's the updated thread—your dibs are being respected if you still want them.

 

[fishxb12]

I just pulled my front head, had a stud bolt hole plugged, welded, re drilled and tapped for like $150. It is worth keeping if you ask me. It can be repaired.

 

[defconjuan]

If I'm going to get this carbide out, I'd do it with an EDM machine. I don't trust helo coils or weld retaps. Hell, I'd rather get a used top rear knuckle for $175.

But you're completely ignoring the cost of your labor, and the costs of all the other parts needed: new fuel line, new pipe, new belt, and new fuel pump. Now, add all those parts together, and add some value to your time assuming you're fixing it all yourself. You're way over $1000 (hell, even the pipe alone is $400 for anything not-stock.) Now, consider that I'd spend this $1500 just to sell it running for for $3500 at best. That leaves me $2000.

Now consider the difference if I part it out, and now all you Buell lovers who cannot find parts can fix/update your bikes. My bike helps many, I saved that $1500, and I will get at least $3000 for this bike parted out. At the end of the day, I have $4500 towards my next bike and my bike's helped dozens.

If you're boss enough to get this all done for less than $5–600, I'll bring every part to your shop. Otherwise, consider the math.

 

[Internet Annoyance]

Your logic escapes me, [confused]

 

[defconjuan]

After a lot of debate and a one last crack at it with a hillbilly friend of mine who can "get anything out"—we have succeeded! We got the stud out and I will be keeping and re-assembling this bike. To those trolls who griefed me for almost parting this out, I kinda hate you but I'm kinda glad you griefed me too....

Now, I need to find a preferably used—or discounted new—RT-1, race pipe, stock pipe (to send in for the Drummer mod), or Dean Keda, GPR, or Torque Hammer. Please PM or email me at [email protected] if you have one.

 

[defconjuan]

Pipe found, I now have all the parts I need to finish this saga