2005 XB9sx Wiring Problem

[xb9-er 2018]

When replacing my rear indicators I believe that I must have shorted something electrical, but I've no idea what.
I was doing a like for like swap to fit larger indicators as the bike was fitted with really tiny LED's which were too small for me. The fronts went on trouble free, and I was working on the rear ones when this occurred The symptoms are these:
1. Instruments do not sweep when I turn on the ignition but the engine will start.
2. No Low beam headlamp, but if I switch to High beam, that works as does the headlamp flasher switch.
3. No dashboard lamps ie. Fuel, Neutral, Oil.
4. No panel lamps in speedometer or tachometer, no odometer / clock.
5. No indicators front or back.
6. Brake light is working.
7. Horn is working.
8. Pilot lamps in headlamp units are working.
9.High beam indicator lamp in dash is working.
I've checked all the fuses and none were blown, but I see there are 3 relays in the fuse box too. Could it be on of these?
I'm baffled and don't know what to do, I hope someone on this forum can shed some light on this for me. Thanks in advance,
Rich

 

[Sdrxb12s]

When working on electrical you should unhook the battery first. This way if you did short power to ground you wont do any damage.
Are you sure that you put the wires back together properly?

 

[Barrett]

rich: you were honest enough to admit that, while working on the bike, you caused a problem. commendable. few admit it.
try these steps:
1-you mentioned checking all fuses. AGAIN....remove key switch fuse(15A) and check it along with the female terminals it fits into.
2-CHECK YOUR WORK! both front and rear! check for bare positive wire shorting to ground....a mis-matched wire that you incorrectly assembled causing a short.
3-lack of "sweeping gauges" when activated via key switch relay the clue. completely different circuit than "start" circuit.
4-see attached image. you have THREE relays. they are key switch...ignition....start. they are ALL THE SAME....20 amp.
remove the key switch relay. it is the same as many late-model chrysler and ford a/c system relays. every auto parts store stocks them as does every Harley-Davidson dealer. about $7 each. take yours and match it up. then replace. you really should have a pair of spares at all times.
5-now do this: key OFF....kill switch OFF....replace key switch relay....fuse box lid OFF....with fully charged battery now turn key on. relay should click and gauges should sweep. if NOT stop right there and report back.

 

[xb9-er 2018]

Thanks for that Barrett, I've just ordered one online and it should be here by Friday. I'll follow your advice and get back with what happens. Fingers crossed!
Rich

 

[34nineteen]

Thanks for that Barrett, I've just ordered one online and it should be here by Friday. I'll follow your advice and get back with what happens. Fingers crossed!
Rich

I had a similar issue last night on my S1. I was installing my Flame Thrower(tm) H4 LED bulb (from Hell Fire Mega Industries out of Leola, PA). When I turned the key to test the light... nada.... no click, no lights, no nothing! It just worked yesterday!

After doing some testing, starting at the battery and moving into the harness, it turned out to be a flaky relay. A little flick and everything lit up. It took about 10 minutes to figure out, and about 5 of those minutes was spent turning the key on and off, scratching my head and making grunting sounds.

 

[xb9-er 2018]

Tried the new relay in the fuse box - nada! Just the same as before, has anyone got ideas on this?

 

[Barrett]

Tried the new relay in the fuse box - nada! Just the same as before, has anyone got ideas on this?

you clearly damaged a critical electrical circuit during your work. this is assuming the bike was completely functioning normally prior to the commencement of your work. not being there i can only offer up suggestions as to how i'd try and locate the source of the damage if i was working on it.

remove negative cable from either sub-frame connection or battery terminal. negative only.
now unplug everything you recall working on. from your description it will be all 4 signals and the flasher relay which, on all cityX models, is in the headlight bucket.
with everything unplugged now reconnect your negative cable and see if things back to normal. if so you've narrowed down the source of your problems.
if not, best of luck.

 

[34nineteen]

Tried the new relay in the fuse box - nada! Just the same as before, has anyone got ideas on this?

Yes, start at the battery and follow the flow of current and find out where it stops. The circuit is incomplete, you need to find where it stops.

Did you test the old relay? Did you check the other relays? There are more than one. Did you check for signal? Did you check to see if the relay was getting power to the “secondary” circuit? Did you jump across the relay plug to energize the circuit? What happens when you did that? So many questions here that you should have answers for.

 

[xb9-er 2018]

Hi again,
I had a car electrician round today to check the wiring, he went over everything and found it was the ECM not acting in response to inputs. I am trying to source another one but can only find for a 2003, mine's a 2005. my question is this - is it a straight swap or is the ECM year specific? Thanks in advance...

 

[casual_observer]

1. Instruments do not sweep when I turn on the ignition but the engine will start.

Wait... what? The engine starts, but you think it has a bad ECM?

2. No Low beam headlamp, but if I switch to High beam, that works as does the headlamp flasher switch.

This has nothing to do with the ECM

5. No indicators front or back.

This also has nothing to do with the ECM



Have you checked to see if the ignition switch is working correctly? Due to the fact that you have so many issues not related to the ECM that are not working, and that the bike actually starts, which is the ECM's main function (which supposedly is not acting in response to any inputs), you have another problem. F

Have you checked to see if the ignition switch is working correctly? Dont just look at it and say "it looks okay". Pull it off the bike and check the contacts for continuity/resistance. Hopefully that "car electrician" didnt charge you for his time.

Or pull the cluster out and apply +12V to terminals 2 and 12 and ground to 13. Do the needles sweep now or not? Likewise, does 2 provide contant power, 12 provide switched power and 13 go to a ground?

 

[casual_observer]

Sometimes there are not enough words.