Hi all. My Ulysses does not want to idle and sounds like its running on one cylinder. Im getting signal to coil, getting spark, there is fuell pressure, injectors are both giving fuell. When I crank it i can rev it but does not want to idle and it sounds way different, almost like an offroad. Different than the normal deep sound. Sometimes when it starts up and i rev it to keep it going there is popping at the throttle body. Ive done a tps reset which i cannot get lower than 1.2 degrees. No errors showing up on ecmspy apart from the air temp sensor from the air box being unplugged. Almost forgot to mention, ive been struggling with it for 2 years, started intermittantly to stall while driving and not getting it staryed again, then for weeks and decided to get new sparkplug wires, spark plugs. But didnt solve my problem Stood for just over a year and decided to try and take it on again. Ive added new fuel and oil..any ideas?
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2007 Buell XB12X stalling
- Thread starter jakes1982
- Start date
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njloco
Well-known member
Did you try cleaning the Injectors, since it sat around for awhile. Take the air cover off and visually check TPS, also check for dirt.
Here you go,
https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showt...or-under-15-00&highlight=Testing+intake+seals
Here you go,
https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showt...or-under-15-00&highlight=Testing+intake+seals
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user_deleted
Well-known member
getting spark, there is fuell pressure, injectors are both giving fuell
how have you confirmed this?
When I crank it i can rev it but does not want to idle and it sounds way different, almost like an offroad.
typically a spark plug backing itself out of the cylinder head....or loose exhaust header clamps or cracked header near the exhaust port.
ve done a tps reset which i cannot get lower than 1.2 degrees.
no tps reset can be successful unless the initial TB plate setting is confirmed to be 0.
Almost forgot to mention, ive been struggling with it for 2 years, started intermittantly to stall while driving and not getting it staryed again,
there is popping at the throttle body.
that right there along with high AFV value that, when reset, quickly rises well over 100 again all signs of classic failing fuel pump. remove and rebuild with full kit and correct OEM parts or replace with new.
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Lunaticfringe I have removed the injectors along with the rail and when the fuel pump primes both injectors are shooting out fuel in the air when i turn it upside down with the little space ive got.
Sparks when i remove it and hold it agains the engin. How can i check if there is any pressure being lost through the sparkplugs? I will check out the throttle body later today try to clean without letting any dirt going into the intake perhaps the tps will zero out and close better . Will keep you updated.
Sparks when i remove it and hold it agains the engin. How can i check if there is any pressure being lost through the sparkplugs? I will check out the throttle body later today try to clean without letting any dirt going into the intake perhaps the tps will zero out and close better . Will keep you updated.
Silverrider
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2016
- Messages
- 2,802
Spray a little fuel in the TB see if it runs on both and better , You need to see if pump delivering 50 lbs of pressure. How many miles ?
Ok got home and checked the timing, fuel pump priming when it hits TDC exactly in the middle of the inspection hole. Fuell pressure is plenty, i didnt use a guage but it squirts out even if i try to keep the pipe closed as hard as i can with my thumb. There is one thing that i noticed. I removed the plugs and double checked the gaps on 0.9mm while i was at it i checked for spark again, confirmed. But....the front cylinder spark plug i could smell the fuel the rear sparkplug could not smell fuel and a carbon deposit, very dry.....also after cleaning the plugs and putting them backnd then cranking it and revving it the front cylinder is much colder and rear cylinder very very hot afterwards.
When i removed the front sparkplug to test for spark it wanted to idle at first turn when cranked even with pkug outside obviously not right but had to switch it off. Then when i tested rear plug for spark, i got spark again but didnt even try to start.....what on earth? Sounds like it could be something more serious....any ideas?
When i removed the front sparkplug to test for spark it wanted to idle at first turn when cranked even with pkug outside obviously not right but had to switch it off. Then when i tested rear plug for spark, i got spark again but didnt even try to start.....what on earth? Sounds like it could be something more serious....any ideas?
user_deleted
Well-known member
it goes like this: if your motor has fuel...compression....timing...and spark....it has no choice. it has to run and run on both cylinders. the introduction of "air" results in compression.
if your motor was at room temp...and you ran it for a short period.....and it didn't "sound right"....and the rear cylinder header was hot to the touch and the front cylinder header was cold....clearly your front cylinder is NOT firing. why? absence of fuel or spark, or both. if the plug was wet and smelled of raw fuel then it is missing "spark". that can only be a faulty ECM ground...a faulty ECM....faulty coil....faulty plug wire....fouled/faulty spark plug. odds in favor of wire and/or plug as your OEM coil is a dual-fire and extremely rare for 1 post to not fire. use this info to trouble-shoot.
Thanx lunaticfringe. I agree The front cylinder is cold, and plug smell of fuel...so yes it must be something going on at the front cylinder because that fuel is not being used or combusted i take it. When i remove that plug to test for spark it wanted to idle as good as ever when the plug is outside, sounding abnormal off course. I have tested the resistance of the coil and its within spec. Can it be a leak somewhere with regards to air pressure?
njloco
Well-known member
I love it when you talk logical !
user_deleted
Well-known member
I love it when you talk logical !
knock it off Kenneth! LOL
i hope you realize keyboard trouble-shooting is a crap-shoot at best....but if this bike was in my shop, here's what i'd do:
i'd assume this thing has fuel and fuel only at TDC compression. that would be my starting point.
i'd remove and replace the plug with known good new one. NGK DCPR8EIX is what i'd replace it with.
next i'd simply place a compression tester gauge into the front plug hole....hold throttle wide open...key on....kill switch to on...and crank for 5 seconds or so and read the gauge. anything in the 145-155psi range would tell you the cylinder has operable compression. if so then continue on.
next i'd replace the spark plug wire to rule it out as a culprit.
finally with new plug and plug wire in place start the bike and see what you have.
if the cylinder is still dead then it clearly is the coil.
this would be how i'd attack it.
njloco
Well-known member
Do exactly what he says and, in the order he says to do it in !
Baught new spark plugs again. Started right up and idling perfectly thanx. Dont know why the previous "new" ones didnt work, maybe because off all the cranking they got damaged some how.....the next morning bike didnt want to start again...wiggled the harness coming from the ignition sensor and it started again....noticed shavings on the wire right at the bottom were it kind of makes an S - shape loop. Will get that sorted today.
