2009 XB12SCG Running rough intermittently

[Wghussey]

In general, my bike runs very well, however, I have has three episodes of it running like ass after sitting in traffic or going along slowly in traffic. So the bike will be running perfectly and then all of the sudden when I accelerate, the bike sputters, backfires and has a total lack of power and acceleration. It self resolves after I get onto an open stretch and just start rolling on the throttle and powering up the RPM range for a bit. It seems to clear up after a good flogging. I am guessing the plugs might be fouling?
The bike has sat in storage for several years so I am going to replace the plugs and wires for good measure.
Ideas?

 

[user_deleted]

NGK DCPR9EIX iridiums the plugs of choice. one heat range colder than stock and improve throttle response and starting.
1-VERY closely and carefully check your 2 plug wires and replace if at all questionable.
2-during your access to the coil assembly test it. SM procedure below for you.
3-you failed to mention bikes' mileage but consider replacing the O2 sensor as it's inexpensive....relatively easily accessible....bosch and several other units cross over to OEM on the cheap.
4-since it "sat in storage" for several years consider pulling the fuel pump, cleaning filter screen/sock and testing its output pressure. a lazy pump mimics your rideability symptoms.
5-perform a TPS reset. easy to do and described in your owners manual and the SM.
NOTE: seems i mention this on here weekly.:upset: a back-fire is combustion blowing up thru the TB. after-fire is combustion blowing out the exhaust. if you're experiencing after-fire NOT related to coasting on closed throttle that's almost always faulty plugs. replace them!
you're welcome.

Summarized from the service manual:
1. Using Ohm-meter, measure resistance of front/rear plug wires. Resistance should be between 1.4k and 3.3k ohms.
2. Using Ohm-meter, measure resistance of primary and secondary coil windings.
Primary: Measure resistance between the two outer contacts (there's three contacts inside the connector). Resistance should be between 0.5 to 0.7 ohms.

Secondary: Measure resistance between the two plug wire connectors (outputs) on the sides of the coil. Resistance should be between 5.5k to 7.5k.

 

[Silverrider]

After your bike sat for several years, What did you do to it before starting it again ???????? If anything? just asking . How long is several years ?

 

[Wghussey]

Thanks lunatic, I was thinking along those lines. Bike only had 2800 miles. After I bought the bike, put on new tires, changed fluids/filters/battery. Fixed a bad turn signal relay, ran a bottle of Seafoam through it. Did not address plugs or wires so that was next course of action. I did buy a Buelltooth and put a new map on because I installed a Jardine pipe and K&K air filter. Ran all the diagnostics and checked for codes. There was an old ground fault code but has not come back since I have cleared it. Adjusted the fan settings to com on a little sooner (I live in FL), did a bunch of cosmetic work but I'll save that for the unavailing

 

[user_deleted]

yes sir always my pleasure. you can bank on the plugs being your problem. replace with the NGK's i recommended. procedure pretty simple if you know a few tricks. disregard the SM recommendation of rotating the entire motor. if you need the procedure for the rear plug let me know. front plug is easy. just use a 5/8" box wrench after removing left side factory air scoop. plug sits right there for the taking. and gap the new plugs to factory recommendation and NOT any wider. a wider gap stresses the coil.

 

[David Borthwick]

What is the recommended gap?

 

[user_deleted]

.035"
and if you're asking this i strongly suggest you google "buellxb spark plug gap" and then my screen name to find the correct gapping procedure. tiny dab of precious metal resides on portion of ground electrode that faces the precious metal center electrode. incorrect procedure can harm both destroying an expensive plug.

 

[David Borthwick]

Thanks, that is 0.9mm which is what they come as according to the NGK website.

 

[Cooter]

Yes, typically precious metal plugs are pre-gapped correctly at the factory, but always check them. I have ran across one or two over the years that were incorrect. Could be damage, or a return, whatever, but Lunatic is right, it's a good idea to check.

 

[sinikl]

FWIW i found i needed spark plug wire pliers to get my rear wire off the plug and put it back on (bought some when i got the plugs "just in case" and boy am I glad I did or I'd have been SOL). It is pretty tight in there. Front plug is super easy by contrast.

 

[midway]

bike will be running perfectly and then all of the sudden when I accelerate, the bike sputters

If none of that helps I recall a smart young fellow having a similar situation that when certain RPM's were just right engine vibration shorted a frayed wire into the frame or fuel tank. The worst kind of intermittent electrical issue was finally solved by checking for logged error codes after the incident. She might be talking to you if you know where to listen
Good luck!

https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showt...re-sputter-lower-RPM-only-at-max-engine-temps

 

[GregoXB]

@wghussey... also, check the wiring under the seat. My 09ss was running rough and then started popping the ignition fuse. Turned out to be the seat compressing the wiring harness were it connects to the ecm. I freed up the wires a bit and that resolved my issue.