2009 xb9sx?
- Thread starter luke2
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Enemy Zero
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I'd say just because its new to you, start it off right with a fresh oil change. It'll help you to get to know the bike a bit too.
here's a good how to video for it.
http://youtu.be/SMuEHcP6iws
only thing I will say is DO NOT use a torque wrench to put your plug back in. The threads strip extremely easy and the torque values in the factory service manual are completely wrong. Just tighten until you feel the o-ring seat and then 1/4 turn to tighten. I know this from experience and had to do a full swingarm swap earlier this year because of it and the previous owners buffoonery.
here's a good how to video for it.
http://youtu.be/SMuEHcP6iws
only thing I will say is DO NOT use a torque wrench to put your plug back in. The threads strip extremely easy and the torque values in the factory service manual are completely wrong. Just tighten until you feel the o-ring seat and then 1/4 turn to tighten. I know this from experience and had to do a full swingarm swap earlier this year because of it and the previous owners buffoonery.
user_deleted
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luke: all good info given to you but a few things to be aware of:
1. when you turn key on, then turn run switch(red switch right handlebar control pod) you must let the dash lights cycle thru. the light with the V-twin logo in it must cycle and turn off. oil pressure light should extinguish after 1-2 seconds following normal start-up.
2. oil level always checked with engine up to temp and rear swingarm warm...like after a nice ride. and checked on sidestand and level surface. level must be within low/high marks on stock dipstick cap.
3. these motors generate approx. 10psi per 1000rpm operating range with 20-50 wt. oil at 70 degrees F air temp. anything above or below those #'s not normal.
4. do NOT...i repeat...do NOT ride or run it with low oil pressure light illuminated. not knowing its history or service records i strongly advise dumping trans/primary oil and engine/swingarm oil. both have identical 5/8th O-ringed drain bolts. remove both, let drain for an hour, remove cowling (7 torx screws) and remove filter. a 2007 and up 1.5L toyota yaris/scion filter fits. crapmart has them for $4. trans/primary holds 1 quart of 20/50 motorcycle specific oil (i love amsoil in there), and engine holds 2.5 quarts with filter change. i like castrol act-evo or any quality 20-50 oil. CHANGE BOTH OF THEM then see how your pressure is. hope this info. helps.
1. when you turn key on, then turn run switch(red switch right handlebar control pod) you must let the dash lights cycle thru. the light with the V-twin logo in it must cycle and turn off. oil pressure light should extinguish after 1-2 seconds following normal start-up.
2. oil level always checked with engine up to temp and rear swingarm warm...like after a nice ride. and checked on sidestand and level surface. level must be within low/high marks on stock dipstick cap.
3. these motors generate approx. 10psi per 1000rpm operating range with 20-50 wt. oil at 70 degrees F air temp. anything above or below those #'s not normal.
4. do NOT...i repeat...do NOT ride or run it with low oil pressure light illuminated. not knowing its history or service records i strongly advise dumping trans/primary oil and engine/swingarm oil. both have identical 5/8th O-ringed drain bolts. remove both, let drain for an hour, remove cowling (7 torx screws) and remove filter. a 2007 and up 1.5L toyota yaris/scion filter fits. crapmart has them for $4. trans/primary holds 1 quart of 20/50 motorcycle specific oil (i love amsoil in there), and engine holds 2.5 quarts with filter change. i like castrol act-evo or any quality 20-50 oil. CHANGE BOTH OF THEM then see how your pressure is. hope this info. helps.
neilrl79
Well-known member
+1^^^ Definitely change the oil in both holes ASAP, it's not hard to do yourself and it will give you a little piece of mind.
Enemy Zero
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Everything lunatic said is spot on. Its best to have that peace of mind and know its one less thing to worry about.
I too am a big fan of amsoil 20-50 in both holes but there has been a ton of debate about oils on this forum so use what you like.
I too am a big fan of amsoil 20-50 in both holes but there has been a ton of debate about oils on this forum so use what you like.
user_deleted
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i appreciate the kind words. threw in the "amsoil" and "act-evo" references in hopes of igniting possible sunday morning heated oil debate in lieu of going to mass.
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^ I hope this happens
PS I got the brake pads John!
[up]
PS I got the brake pads John!
[up]
user_deleted
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good deal jesse. use them in good health. you're a father now so good brakes among other things a necessity.
go cytocis
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I'm game, when do we start!?
okay finally got a picture onto my computer. The top half the tank is painted matte black along with the front fairing. Wish they were the hero blue but i dont think I can remove it.
Anyway, this thing is pretty quiet. I dont have the money to buy a 400 dollar exhaust. I have the tools to modify or build one myself. I actually build custom exhaust pipes for my other motorcycle (yamaha vstar) but they are just straight pipes. Any advice or links.
I cant get the phot to embed, someone help me lol http://s969.photobucket.com/user/psu2005/media/buell.jpg
Anyway, this thing is pretty quiet. I dont have the money to buy a 400 dollar exhaust. I have the tools to modify or build one myself. I actually build custom exhaust pipes for my other motorcycle (yamaha vstar) but they are just straight pipes. Any advice or links.
I cant get the phot to embed, someone help me lol http://s969.photobucket.com/user/psu2005/media/buell.jpg
user_deleted
Well-known member
luke: i'm still of the opinion that for $175 including return freight to you (my cost last time randy did a muffler for me) that a hawk perf. muffler is biggest bang for the buck. he supports this site, member of AMA hall of fame, wonderful guy to deal with and alot of sound and performance for not a whole lot of $. here ya go.
http://hawkperformancemotorcycle.com/content/hawk-performance-buell-xb-series-exhaust-modification
