Adding o2 bung
- Thread starter rb70383
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Use a small MIG welder. Try not to leave any holes or the tube will crack from vibration.
FYI, you don't need to add a bung for a WB O2. Put it in the stock location and you can Datalog with it. You can run the bike with it as well. It should have come with a NB emulator.
If you are looking to put a bung in the front header and tune with that be aware it's slightly different than reading from the rear.
FYI, you don't need to add a bung for a WB O2. Put it in the stock location and you can Datalog with it. You can run the bike with it as well. It should have come with a NB emulator.
If you are looking to put a bung in the front header and tune with that be aware it's slightly different than reading from the rear.
user_deleted
Well-known member
1-XB12 header significantly LARGER pre-collector OD than XB9 header.
2-2010 "dual-bung" correct XB12 header is factory part # S0101.7AA you MUST add suffix U7B to that # if ordering. at least 30 still left in system.....retails around $250.
3-a quality ding and scratch free XB12 header if mint fetches $200 all day long. cherry yours out....sell it...buy what i listed above. but then again that might be too simplistic for your complex tastes????
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XB 9 headers are 1 5/8", XB12's are 1 7/8".
If you're good with a torch, it can be gas welded and look very similar to a TIG weld.
If you've not done it, this is a short demo of it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4e5YHC_Owpg
Personally, I wouldn't recommend MIG unless you're a pro with it and are using gas. If you do, purge the tube with argon (100%, not a mix) since it's 304 stainless steel.
Most small weld shops can probably quote you a decent price to weld it in, I'd mark where it needs to be welded, maybe even drill the hole for them (uni-bit step drill) and hand them the header and the bung. $25-30 would be a safe bet on cost.
If you're good with a torch, it can be gas welded and look very similar to a TIG weld.
If you've not done it, this is a short demo of it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4e5YHC_Owpg
Personally, I wouldn't recommend MIG unless you're a pro with it and are using gas. If you do, purge the tube with argon (100%, not a mix) since it's 304 stainless steel.
Most small weld shops can probably quote you a decent price to weld it in, I'd mark where it needs to be welded, maybe even drill the hole for them (uni-bit step drill) and hand them the header and the bung. $25-30 would be a safe bet on cost.
Did this recently on an xb12.
You didn't say "dual WB" before, thats why I gave that answer.
Lunatic has a good point about just buying a header, the placement of the front O2 is a bit tighter than it looks by the front engine mount (and RSS if you have one) the angle is important for clearance but make sure the tip of the O2 is still as close to the center of the pipe as possible.
Dean is right, don't put a 9 header on a 12... and I assumed you know how to weld with your welders? A uni-bit will work fine and leaves a round hole (unlike a big drill bit) but it will leave a step to clean up on the lower part of the radius on the header, try a Rotabroach instead. Blair makes an inexpensive kit.
http://shop.blairequipment.com/Fractional-Rotabroach-Cutter-Kit-p/11090.htm
Perfect precise holes every time. They will even cut very thick steel quickly (quietly!) and vastly more accurately than a hole saw
Lunatic has a good point about just buying a header, the placement of the front O2 is a bit tighter than it looks by the front engine mount (and RSS if you have one) the angle is important for clearance but make sure the tip of the O2 is still as close to the center of the pipe as possible.
Dean is right, don't put a 9 header on a 12... and I assumed you know how to weld with your welders? A uni-bit will work fine and leaves a round hole (unlike a big drill bit) but it will leave a step to clean up on the lower part of the radius on the header, try a Rotabroach instead. Blair makes an inexpensive kit.
http://shop.blairequipment.com/Fractional-Rotabroach-Cutter-Kit-p/11090.htm
Perfect precise holes every time. They will even cut very thick steel quickly (quietly!) and vastly more accurately than a hole saw
Clean work Dean! You must have a lot of practice welding:eagerness: haha
No idea whatchoo talkin about Willis.
rb70383
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Complex tastes? I can turn anything simple into an ordeal. Its a talent
Sounded like a good idea about the 12 header with dual bungs. I have a another header just have to see which one it is.
My bad, yes with the intention of going dual sensors. I cant remember the issues with a 12 header on a 9. Does it kill that much torque?
I haven't welded stainless yet. Figures it could be a nice winter project. I may take the header out and take it to a shop.
I only have the standard gas for mig welding. I have a oxy ace setup just never welded stainless with either setup. Not sure how often I will have to, don't have the money to invest in that yet.
Sounded like a good idea about the 12 header with dual bungs. I have a another header just have to see which one it is.
My bad, yes with the intention of going dual sensors. I cant remember the issues with a 12 header on a 9. Does it kill that much torque?
I haven't welded stainless yet. Figures it could be a nice winter project. I may take the header out and take it to a shop.
I only have the standard gas for mig welding. I have a oxy ace setup just never welded stainless with either setup. Not sure how often I will have to, don't have the money to invest in that yet.
Lol, I love people with odd talents, you have one.
Swapping out to a 12 header is an upgrade and won't hurt anything. I'd recommend tuning it, but you're headed in that direction anyway, so moot point there. (Nope, not mute point, MOOT point. There's a difference. Grammar nazi side track ftw.)
Welding stainless is no more difficult than any other steel. I'd take the header off the bike regardless of the route you choose, it doesn't take too awful long to do.
Swapping out to a 12 header is an upgrade and won't hurt anything. I'd recommend tuning it, but you're headed in that direction anyway, so moot point there. (Nope, not mute point, MOOT point. There's a difference. Grammar nazi side track ftw.)
Welding stainless is no more difficult than any other steel. I'd take the header off the bike regardless of the route you choose, it doesn't take too awful long to do.
Possibly, but I ran widebands on my 1125 for 5 years, maybe 30k miles and never had a problem with them. Most of my bikes that I keep long term get widebands installed on them not long after I get the bike. Also, they worked just fine in the stock location. 6" or so from the heads.
I've used several different controllers but the actual sensors have always been Bosch. LSU 4.2 and 4.9 models. The 4.2's are the older version, slower refresh rate, but they work just fine. Never had an issue with any of them, combined mileage, probably 50k? Highest was 30k on my 1125, the rest are sub-10k miles.
As far as the controller itself goes, I've used PLX-Devices, Daytona Wego-3 and Innovate mostly. Currently on my 1190 it's a Daytona Wego-3 dual controller with a custom display, my xb12 has an Innovate DLG-1 on it.
As far as the controller itself goes, I've used PLX-Devices, Daytona Wego-3 and Innovate mostly. Currently on my 1190 it's a Daytona Wego-3 dual controller with a custom display, my xb12 has an Innovate DLG-1 on it.
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rb70383
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Project is still rolling. Got my 10+ 12 header in. Dual sensors. Going to get it jet hot coated as well. Also ordered the DLG-1.
Been playing with ECMspy and working on my cold running. Had to call it quits at high 20 degrees. Too cold for me.
Big thing I'm trying to find now is how to actually run dual wide bands on the bike through the ecm so it can be data logged and then analyzed. Or does just the rear O2 data get logged and you have to watch for the front?
Or in order to run dual sensors' data, I would need to run their logworks program?
I feel this should be straight forward, but for some reason it not sinking in.
Been playing with ECMspy and working on my cold running. Had to call it quits at high 20 degrees. Too cold for me.
Big thing I'm trying to find now is how to actually run dual wide bands on the bike through the ecm so it can be data logged and then analyzed. Or does just the rear O2 data get logged and you have to watch for the front?
Or in order to run dual sensors' data, I would need to run their logworks program?
I feel this should be straight forward, but for some reason it not sinking in.
DDFI-3 required to log it through the ECM directly. 2 addtional wires are required, pins 1 and 33 on the gray plug. DDFI-2 would be a little more difficult, there's no way to get the info into/out of the ecm easily.
I wouldn't call it a straight forward process, it's a bit of a pita. I just pay Tim at IDSPD to do it and get excellent results every time.
I wouldn't call it a straight forward process, it's a bit of a pita. I just pay Tim at IDSPD to do it and get excellent results every time.
rb70383
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What does Tim do? The tuning or can he upgrade so I can run dual WB? I know, having an 03 I'm at the biggest disadvantage. Manual idle control and not even in the 04-08 XB's. I think 03-02 are the bastard child XB's. lol
I bought a programmable IDS for EBR.
SO, could I use innovatives log software to log the widebands, but still pass through the single o2 through the ECM? That way the front O2 would be synced with the log. So then compare the logs from the WB and the log through ecmspy. After reading that I don't think so as then no calculation would be used for the front o2 (bypassing the ECM) and I would have to interpolate the front cylinder by comparing the 2 logs.
When was the dual o2 implemented? I know 2010 but iirc the earlier ECMs had the ability but not wires. Just read a thread couple days were they ran to the pins and the front o2 logged. Is it only 08+? If so Buelltooth can update the ECM's. Needed in order to use the baro and QS kit from them.
njloco
Well-known member
This should make you explode,
in·ter·po·late
/inˈtərpəˌlāt/Submit
verb
insert (something of a different nature) into something else.
"illustrations were interpolated in the text"
synonyms: insert, interpose, interject, enter, add, incorporate, inset, put, introduce
"language models can be interpolated online"
insert (words) in a book or other text, especially in order to give a false impression as to its date.
alter (a book or text) by insertion
in·ter·po·late
/inˈtərpəˌlāt/Submit
verb
insert (something of a different nature) into something else.
"illustrations were interpolated in the text"
synonyms: insert, interpose, interject, enter, add, incorporate, inset, put, introduce
"language models can be interpolated online"
insert (words) in a book or other text, especially in order to give a false impression as to its date.
alter (a book or text) by insertion
I'm totally turned on right now
OP: what are you trying to do? Diagnose a running issue? You want gauges on the bike? Check factory mapping for perfection?
Like Dean, I have run twin O2's in 2010 stock locations (+/- 4" from the head) for extended mileage without issue. You can use the same WB sensor to emulate a NB input to the ECM for those times you enable CL operation in between tuning sessions where it's locked out.
OP: what are you trying to do? Diagnose a running issue? You want gauges on the bike? Check factory mapping for perfection?
Like Dean, I have run twin O2's in 2010 stock locations (+/- 4" from the head) for extended mileage without issue. You can use the same WB sensor to emulate a NB input to the ECM for those times you enable CL operation in between tuning sessions where it's locked out.
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