Silverrider
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Anyone ever successfully removed paint from a cherry bomb airbox
- Thread starter sinikl
- Start date
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Cooter
Well-known member
Even with compound, it will be scratchy and foggy until the final step of polishing. The trick is to have the whole piece have a uniform finish before going to the next step.
http://www.buellxb.com/forum/showth...tic-scratch-removal&highlight=scratch+remover
http://www.buellxb.com/forum/showth...tic-scratch-removal&highlight=scratch+remover
OK.I went back to 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, compound (admittedly crap turtlewax), polishing compound (twax again), and then Meguiar's plast-x.
In some light it looks really great, like here:
...Except where there's a haze that I think is from the lacquer thinner attacking the plastic when i was stripping it. this is the spidery haze visible below on the right side of the 'hump' in the flyscreen or at the top and bottom edges of the screen.
Mind that when i was stepping up the paper this hazing was always there, even when i could see it "under" sandscratches from the paper i was using (confirmed by changing the orientation i was sanding in and watching the sand scratches follow).
I scraped at it in one place with a knife (ruining all my sanding, i know) to see if i can get to clearer plastic underneath and that seems to have worked? Do I just need to sand these areas til i see the hazing gone because i hit "good" plastic underneath?
BTW: I realize the buff/polish is not perfect (you can see circular lines) and i get that,but it's "good enough" for me if I can just get rid of the haze.
In some light it looks really great, like here:
...Except where there's a haze that I think is from the lacquer thinner attacking the plastic when i was stripping it. this is the spidery haze visible below on the right side of the 'hump' in the flyscreen or at the top and bottom edges of the screen.
Mind that when i was stepping up the paper this hazing was always there, even when i could see it "under" sandscratches from the paper i was using (confirmed by changing the orientation i was sanding in and watching the sand scratches follow).
I scraped at it in one place with a knife (ruining all my sanding, i know) to see if i can get to clearer plastic underneath and that seems to have worked? Do I just need to sand these areas til i see the hazing gone because i hit "good" plastic underneath?
BTW: I realize the buff/polish is not perfect (you can see circular lines) and i get that,but it's "good enough" for me if I can just get rid of the haze.
LouWambsganss
Well-known member
That looks like it could be acrylic crazing. It is caused when a solvent is absorbed into the material and causes micro-cracks. It's not just a surface blemish. Depending on the depth, it may sand out. If the cracks go too deep, some clearcoat intended for plastics may help to make them less noticeable.
http://aristechacrylics.com/wp-content/uploads/Stress_Crazing_on_Acrylic_Surfaces_and_Its_Causes_Bulletin_186.pdf
http://aristechacrylics.com/wp-content/uploads/Stress_Crazing_on_Acrylic_Surfaces_and_Its_Causes_Bulletin_186.pdf
That is a neat link, Lou! If i'm reading it right it says solvents (my fault) are not enough unless the material was stressed by bending in construction (my paraphrase), so it would make sense that the crazing follows the edges of the bubble in the shield and the side of the shield.... which it does.
i will sand more to try to get to 'good' material underneath and report back.
To think i was just gonna order new parts (i probably will anyway) but now i'm determined to make this right/die on this hill. Hey, it gives me something to do while watching TV, right?
i will sand more to try to get to 'good' material underneath and report back.
To think i was just gonna order new parts (i probably will anyway) but now i'm determined to make this right/die on this hill. Hey, it gives me something to do while watching TV, right?
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