Bad Running Uly /// Culprit Found...

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thewanmanrules

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Well a couple of days ago, my Uly started mis-Behaving, electrical issues, headlight blowing out, hard to start, and spitting/coughing when it was first started.... the culprit... a 2006 Harley Battery... in a 2006... The PO stated it had been replaced...


So after a couple days of playing with Fuses, Cleaning Connectors, Checking all of my grounds, a new Voltage Regulator, TPS Reset, and then finally a new Lithium Ion battery, She is back to her old self... Doing Wheelies, Roasting the inside of my Thigh again... and naturally pissing off every Suzuki, Yamaha, Honda, and Kawasaki...and Some Guy on a Ducati Multi-Strada...

I have no idea what I would have done without the help of some really great troubleshooting post on this forum...

A Big Thank you goes out to all the folks on Buell Forum...
 
THE ORIGINAL BATTERY FROM 2006...

14280_20120820191925_L.jpg
 
Still running the orignal 2006 battery in my XB12Ss, 24,000 miles, no problems. Is this rare ???
 
I would say so... I have never had a battery last more than 2 years.... But, I do ride all of my bikes... Bought this one for 3K, with 4Kmiles, 2 months ago, and now just turned 17K...
 
Still running the orignal 2006 battery in my XB12Ss, 24,000 miles, no problems. Is this rare ???
Click to expand...

i would venture to say so. seems that regardless of battery mfg. normal life expectancy in any buell XB is about 3-4 seasons. they get pretty damn hot under these seats and the vibration and shaking inherent in a Buell doesn't add to their longevity either.
 
I've got the original in my 2007 XB12X, but I'm guessing it's time to go. I usually get around four years in my Harley. Usually you don't get any warning, they just crap out and leave you somewhere.
 
Heat kills batterys. They say for cars 2-3 years is normal life. For bikes it's usually longer because often they are stored inside, and they are used less.

Keeping the battery on a trickle charger helps prolong life as well.

My 1996 suzuki still had the original battery when I bought it ~2008ish. Still had it when I sold it too in 2010. Started strong, had like 30k miles on the bike IIRC. Always stored indoor and on a trickle charger (PO said so as well).

My father in law recently replaced the battery in his SV1000(I think it's like a 2005 model or so). He had like 60k+ miles on it and it was starting weak so he replaced it before getting stranded.

My 2005 buell was stored outside by the PO, not maintained on a charger, and it died when I went to buy it. The guy started it up, pulled it out of the parking garage, shut it off, and it wouldn't start again. This was about 2 years ago.
 
I just replace my factory battery on my 2007 Ulysses last week with 25,890 miles on it. I bought the harley battery again, because they seem to last a long time from what I had seen and a trickle charge does help allot. It was getting slow cranking on that first stroke so I used my volt meter on record to see how low it was getting. It was down to 7.5 volts and the new one stays above 10 volts, so it was time.
 
Well... The issues continue... After New Battery, for like less than 2 weeks... I am out after midnight on a 2 am, ride... Both Head Light Blow... Checked all the grounds, It appears to be the Stator... (MultiMeter shows grounded... Which is a Bad thing, plus when I opened the primary adjustment hole, I now know what burned up stator smells like...)

So the Question... I got the Clutch Nut Broken Loose... I have tried damn near everything on the crankshaft in a attempt to get it break loose to no avail.
Anyone got any ideas? I am following the steps in the manual and also reviewing the write up from one of post here in the forum... I am hoping to have another pair of hands in the morning to assist... The next idea is Impact, (issue there is I do not own one yet... )

If that fails, I guess it may have to go to the dealer...
 
Use a cheater bar with at least a 3 foot handle ... that nut is tight. It's right-hand threaded so loosen that one by turning counter-clockwise. Make sure you wedge something between the gears. I used half of a 4" brass door hinge from Lowes. When you install it make sure you torque it to spec.
 
manrules: clutch hub bearing LEFT hand thread...front compensator sprocket bearing RIGHT hand thread just to confirm this for you. i've never seen either a front or rear nut that won't come loose with 125psi or more of air driving a 1/2 inch impact gun. you have access to this equipment? brass hinge like djohnk mentioned above not a bad idea OR anything brass. you want to use a soft metal if you do this.
 
Check this out... For a guy that has some mechanical skills... Here it is... BTW... LOWES Kobalt 1/2 18V Lithium Impact Tool... Good ... No... Great Idea... Also the Brass door hinge... Excellent..

Here is the burnt spot... Damn did this ever cause some havoc for like 3 weeks....

14280_20120830201142_L.jpg
 
Got another issue... In an attempt to pull the stator bolts, 1 of the heads is stripped... So now tomorrow I have to get an extraction bit. Another thing that was noted... 2 of the 4 bolts were barely tight... They also had no thread locker on them... I am wondering if the vibration caused the stator to die...
 
That looks just like my stator did when I had to replace it.

Go back to Lowes. Purchase a brand new small vice grips (new because it will still have very sharp teeth). Bring one of those bolts with you so you pick one that will work good. I bet it will get that bolt easily for you.

I don't remember for sure, but I think the service manual says you are supposed to use new stator bolts.
 
OR since metal shavings aren't a problem just grind a slot in the head of the bolt with either matabo tool or air grinder with thin grinding pad in it. then take your harbor freight impact driver with straight slot bit in it, make sure it's on CC setting, and give it a tap with hammer. cap bolt will come right out. and YES...replace all those bolts and use blue loc-tite on reinstall.
 

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