I have an '05 xb12s that keeps blowing the ignition relay. one went today after about 120 miles and the next one after another 20. Seems to happen at low rpm, stopping, or shutting the bike off. I am not an expert with electrical systems and have checked for bare wires and cleaned the grounding points. Anything else to look for? anyone in the Savannah GA area that is knowledgable? Thanks
Blowing the Ignition Relay
- Thread starter pono55
- Start date
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What's part of the relay is "blowing"? The primary or secondary side?
My apologies for my lack on knowledge on the system. Im not sure whether it is the primary. It gets a fried look. When this happens the fuel pump doesn't come on. But when I put in a fresh relay fuse she fires right up.
user_deleted
Well-known member
you have several possible issues causing this and all need to be checked. follow the list below that i am providing for you and report back with results. NOTE; on your ignition relay pins #30 and #87 transfer the current load. if only #87 looks charred or burned the problem lies with the female spades of the fuse box. if both 30 and 87 look charred or burned the problem is in the circuitry itself.
1-remove relay...CAREFULLY AND CLOSELY check the female spades of the fusebox that it plugs into. if corroded or worn that is typically the result of over-heating.
2-with new relay in place turn ignition key on...red run switch ON....and observe the gauge cluster. now wiggle the ignition key. anything weird going on in the cluster or fuel pump repeatedly priming? faulty ignition switch. replace same.
3-remove your stock flyscreen and carefully check all wiring bundles for chafing, shorts, bare spots, positive horn feed wire rubbing on horn bracket, chafing or frayed wires on the main harness feeding into the flyscreen area.
4-find ignition fuse in your fusebox. remove...check spades....check female sockets....clean and replace.
5-another known cause is over-charging problem. start bike...get heat in motor...pin a multi-meter onto the battery terminals...set meter to DC VOLTS...rev to 2500rpm and hold there....now check meter. you want 13.2-14.4 DC volts. anything outside that window you've got a charging system problem.
What a great write up... Do that ^^^
If it is truly only the #30 pin on the relay thats burned and everything else Lunatic had you check is OK:
The load circuit (including the fuel pump) is compromised somewhere. High load, chaffed wires that are grounding... Is there anything aftermarket hooked up? Did someone attach grip heaters to the wrong circuit?
If it is truly only the #30 pin on the relay thats burned and everything else Lunatic had you check is OK:
The load circuit (including the fuel pump) is compromised somewhere. High load, chaffed wires that are grounding... Is there anything aftermarket hooked up? Did someone attach grip heaters to the wrong circuit?
Thanks lunatic much appreciated
1. Female spades are corroded and plastic melted. Going to clean and see how it does
2. Not seeing anything weird with ignition switch.
3. Can't find anything with the wiring, but I'm not the most knowledgeable with the system.
4. Will clean and test how she does
5. Doesn't seem to be over charging currently
1. Female spades are corroded and plastic melted. Going to clean and see how it does
2. Not seeing anything weird with ignition switch.
3. Can't find anything with the wiring, but I'm not the most knowledgeable with the system.
4. Will clean and test how she does
5. Doesn't seem to be over charging currently
user_deleted
Well-known member
thanks much shaughn. i just re-read this guy's update and if in fact the #30 pin on the relay is the one showing resistive over-heating and/or burn marks then the problem is either a broken ground wire coming from the fusebox itself....faulty ignition switch...or a short in the right handlebar switchgear. that switchgear contains red-run switch which energizes several other circuits including fuel pump. that is where the problem lies. see schematic attached.
user_deleted
Well-known member
always my pleasure. you do NOT need to go ripping and tearing into electrical components and wiring harnesses. you'll drive yourself nuts. do the simple thing first and hope that is the problem. the simple thing is very carefully inspecting the female spades of the fusebox that holds the relay. you mentioned that they look dirty and corroded. right there is the likely source of the problem. they must be tight and pristine. NO corrosion or dirt. start there. 90% of these relay problems lie in that area.
Last edited:
I like your thinking to replace them but I wouldn't bother looking for a Buell specific wire terminal:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/25-PCS-6-5m...887981?hash=item41a74fa16d:g:eyEAAOSw9uFW9Uw8
Be sure they have the little tang to hold them in the box, get the width, and the wire gauge size right.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/25-PCS-6-5m...887981?hash=item41a74fa16d:g:eyEAAOSw9uFW9Uw8
Be sure they have the little tang to hold them in the box, get the width, and the wire gauge size right.
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
user_deleted
Well-known member
was reasonably certain when you initiated this post that you would find, as i said, that the source of the problem was the connections/circuitry in the fusebox. with that in mind and apparently isolated and somewhat resolved...get yourself a spray bomb of kano kroil. it is truly amazing stuff. not cheap but money well spent. those female terminal ends a bitch to clean but if corroded/dirty....simply blow out what you can with compressed air nozzle....then fog with kano kroil...let sit overnite...blow out again with air....reinstall your relays....and give it a go. should resolve it for good.
