These guys do a nice repair http://shop.strato.de/epages/63112045.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/63112045/Products/PF-Bue-0018
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Broken Primary Cover
- Thread starter Cheney
- Start date
Help Support Buellxb Forum:
s0dhi
Well-known member
That steel insert looks awesome. I wonder if it could permanently fix the issue?stellio78 said:
racepro716
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2009
- Messages
- 661
I had aluminum blocks welded in between the webs on the inside of the cover,had the whole mess milled down,drilled and tapped four holes in the blocks and put a steel plate in,screwed into the blocks instead of into the three clutch adjustment cover holes. Around 4500 miles since,no problem.
Wayne
Wayne
racepro716
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2009
- Messages
- 661
Ya somewhere on my kid's camera, if she can find them I'll try to get them posted.
Wayne
Wayne
I don't think I would trust sending my primary cover all the way to Germany and expect it to get back in one piece. Can't even imagine how long it would take or how much it would cost! Rrbuell will fix it for the price of the kit we offer plus labor...
BTW...any questions can be directed to [email protected]. We will have photos and an order form as well as a thread on here ASAP.
Well since this thread seems to have some life in it again, I can give a little update to how I fixed my primary.
First I made a jig to hold the primary level without damaging the exterior finish, locked it all up on the bed of a mill, and milled off the remainder of the lip. I continued to mill the lip area down and the surrounding webbing until the threaded holes were visible. From a steel plate about .110" thick, I cut a new piece for the clutch ramp to rest against. I then bolted it to the case using the same threaded holes that attach the clutch adjustment cover. The torx screws that hold the cover on were shortened to allow the bolts holding the plate on to fit. When putting everything back together I learned that I milled the cover down a bit too far and the clutch ramp was contacting the adjustment cover when actuated. I fixed this by spacing the plate out with washers. The bolts I used to hold the plate on were another problem, as the heads contacted the clutch basket. I ground the heads down a bit for clearance. The better option would be to countersink the plate and use flat head torx or phillips machine screws instead of hex head bolts. I haven't had any clutch problems since the fix and have put over 3000 miles on it so far.
First I made a jig to hold the primary level without damaging the exterior finish, locked it all up on the bed of a mill, and milled off the remainder of the lip. I continued to mill the lip area down and the surrounding webbing until the threaded holes were visible. From a steel plate about .110" thick, I cut a new piece for the clutch ramp to rest against. I then bolted it to the case using the same threaded holes that attach the clutch adjustment cover. The torx screws that hold the cover on were shortened to allow the bolts holding the plate on to fit. When putting everything back together I learned that I milled the cover down a bit too far and the clutch ramp was contacting the adjustment cover when actuated. I fixed this by spacing the plate out with washers. The bolts I used to hold the plate on were another problem, as the heads contacted the clutch basket. I ground the heads down a bit for clearance. The better option would be to countersink the plate and use flat head torx or phillips machine screws instead of hex head bolts. I haven't had any clutch problems since the fix and have put over 3000 miles on it so far.
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