Buell XB and 1125 Quickshifter install. CHEAP and EASY!

[Cooter]

This is a "Quickshifter". It is an ignition/fuel kill that will allow easy WOT upshifts. It will not rev match to downshift, you can still do that yourself by putting a little down pressure on the lever with a little throttle blip.

The wiring install for a '08-up XB and any 1125 (DDFI-3) is exactly the same. Mounting the sensor is slightly different between the 2. There's a whole lot of unfinished and bad info about this very simple mod. I don't know why? It was super easy.

There are a couple types of sensors, and at first I was tempted to try the 'strain gauge' type for an easy and clean looking install:
This was a good one...
https://www.healtech-electronics.com/products/qse/

I did not go that route for a couple reasons. The output from that sensor isn't recognised by the Buell ECM, and the stress sensor sensitivity needs to be adjusted. That means you need the entire kit, and possibly an engine rotate to get to the fuel injector harness, negating the whole purpose of cheap and easy install.

For a XB you will need a Dynojet 4-113 "pull sensor".

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dnj-4-113
one of these 6mmx1.0 RH female rod ends:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qa1-mcfr6/overview/
one of these 6mmX1.0 RH male rod ends:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qa1-mcmr6/overview/
They are 6mmx 1.0 (lame) and both right hand thread. Lame because metric sucks, and both RH means to change the shifter height adjustment, you need to unbolt one end
I looked for the Dynojet ones (with a 10/24 hole) and had no luck. If you find a source PLEASE post it!

For an 1125 a Dynojet 4-104 "linear push sensor".

http://cart.dynojet.com/popup.aspx?src=images/PRODUCT/large/807.jpg
The pic shows that it comes with the rod ends, and I sure with it did! They look to have the right 10/24 sized hole for the pivot bolt, but still 6MMx1.0RH for the sensor.

WARNING: Dynojet uses identical part numbers for carburator jet kits and there are a LOT of incorrect sales sites with the right pics, the right part number, and the wrong thing shows up. I paid about $145 for the sensor (on 02/17). If you see it for $85 or so, it's NOT the right part.

Thats all you need, just the sensor and rod ends. You don't need the Dynojet Quickshifter add-on computer, or the DynoJet Powercommander.

 

[Cooter]

You'll need to cut about 1/2 the threads off the male rod end so the assembly will be short enough to replace the stock linkage


Now you have a choice on how to attach the assembly to the bike.
You can drill/tap the aluminum shifter and 'splined shifter collar' (the other end) to a 6mmX1.0 and replace the tiny 10/24 bolts with larger stuff
OR
Go to a hardware store and get some thin wall hobby tubing in order to re-use the stock hardware. The tubing will take up the extra space in the 6mm rod end.

I also had to clearance the aftermarket shifter for the slightly wider rod end

All of this is unnecessary if you can find the dynojet rod ends...

 

[Cooter]

Good times!
View attachment 7122
View attachment 7123

An 1125 install looks like this (not my bike, but it's sick)
Drill/tap the shifter lever to bolt the rod end, and the other end attaches to the clutch cover. The "linear sensor" reads the compression motion and grounds the wire to tell the ECM when to cut fuel/spark.

 

[Cooter]

So now you have the part installed and need to wire it.
The pig tail has 2 wires and since this is just a switch, it doesn't matter which wire goes where:
Ground one to a clean chassis ground. The other wire needs to go into the grey plug on your ECM in pin position #3
So unplug the connector and push up on the little white tab on the bottom, that makes these 2 tabs pop up and unlock the pins inside the connector,

add the correct pin to the end of your wire, insert all the way, lock the white tab back down and plug it back into the ECM.
View attachment 7124

You can route a wire up to it like I did:
View attachment 7125
View attachment 7126

Or there is a good cheat...

 

[Cooter]

There is deutch connector for the kickstand switch that you can use.
It is a 3-wire plug, you can use the ground (black/white) and middle (Tan/white) that goes all the way up to the ECM to the grey plug pin#32. Its behind the stock Right side scoop:

You can attach both sensor wires to those in the kickstand plug. It doesn't matter which wires from the sensor go to the Black/white and Tan/white.

Take off the plug and it's missing the terminals of course:

But they are part# 1060-20-0122. Install the pins in the connector with the Green and blue shifter wires, plug in the connector, re-attach the RSS.

Then go up to the ECM and remove the tan/white wire from the grey plug (pin#32*) and put it in the empty pin #3. You'll have to remove the little clear space holder pin from empty #3. You WILL drop it. Several times. and push it in the no empty #32 spot that you got the tan/white wire from.

Ignore the loose black wire in the plug, it's a front O2 beta testing thing on my bike and unrelated


*I found the Tan/White wire on pin #34 grey plug on my '09 XBSS. Not sure if it was an anomaly but thought I'd edit here just in case. You should always test for continuity just to be sure.

 

[Cooter]

Now the fun part: You need to turn on the shifter function in the ECM.
You can use any tuning program you wish, I use ECMDroid and a wireless Buelltooth dongle so I'll describe how to do it that way.
You need to have some kind of 'Race map' installed, a stock ECM won't have the option

Connect to the ECM and go to:
ECM parameters
general config
scroll to the bottom and enable "Shifter feature"
Make sure on the same page that the "side stand interlock" is disabled
apply changes...

Done!

You also have the option to cut fuel/spark, or just kill the spark and you will get a cool little popping between gears.

Both ECMSpy and TunerPro have a ton of variables you can mess with if you are legit racing. But I find the stock settings work very well on the street and for track days.

 

[Cooter]

This whole job took less that one beer! (15 mins) I paid about $145 for the sensor and $4 each for the rod ends. I feel its one of the best additions I've done to Stella. I will be buying lots of back tires, but not many fronts...

To use a quick shifter effectively, you want to be above 4K RPM and ON the throttle. I ride like that, and I don't normally use the clutch other than neutral to first, so training my throttle hand to stay on the throttle on upshifts instead of slightly releasing (to upshift) it wasn't that big a deal.

I tried using the clutch between every gear (like I'm lust learning how to ride:black_eyed and was surprised that I really didn't notice the ignition cut at all. I figure since you're off the throttle, so the engine is decelerating anyway.

Leaving the setting stock (I believe it's 120ms) is long enough to be effective in all the gears under a wide range of loads, but it is short enough that it won't kill the bike if you are in first (clutch in) and want to get to neutral.

Shift with authority. You don't need to kill or kick the lever, but a wimpy upshift won't have enough pressure to actually shift the trans. Motor will cut out (for 120ms) then back on, trans won't shift and you'll still pressing up on the lever. No worries. Just release and press up again, a little harder.

Since you will now be leaving the stop light and doing your 1-2 shift after 4K rpm... when the front tire touches back down and your mirrors re-alighn with the road behind you... don't give the cop my name, it won't help you:eagerness:.

 

[Cooter]

bam!

 

[Cooter]

Hopefully I can put 1125 install pics here...

 

[BambamXB12r]

After I get all the parts together I will be installing it on my 1125r. If you haven't beat me to it illl be adding the pics for install on the 1125.

 

[Cooter]

Sweet! Please do!

 

[Shatrat]

Just to clarify, when you say a 'race map' is needed, you mean a 'race ecm' right? A physical race ECM has to be installed to support the Quickshifter feature?
There's no way to write anything to my current ECM to support this, if I understand correctly.

 

[Cooter]

There is no difference between a "Race ECM" and a non race ECM.

You simply need access to the ECM parameters on your ECM you have now, whether it's ECMDroid and a wireless Bluetooth dongle, or ECMSpy/tunerpro and a cable to your laptop.
Look in "ECM parameters", if you see "shifter feature"... enable it, and you are done.

If you do not see it, install a 'race map' that matches your firmware version (even for a stock pipe) and that should have that parameter show up.

 

[MakingPAIN]

So this is a no no on my old 03 xb huh I seen the years you posted but just want to verify ??

 

[Shatrat]

So when you say map you're meaning more than just the fuel and spark tables, the whole firmware config.

The quick shifter settings are currently greyed out on my BUEIB ECM.
I'm not finding a BUEIB 'race' file available online. I'm currently experiencing technical difficulties anyway, so I may end up needing a new ECM, which would make this a lot easier I guess.

Thanks.

 

[Silverrider]

Yea , only XBs http://buellmods.com/#TabbedContent

 

[Cooter]

MakingPain: I'm fiddling with a DDFI-2 ECM like yours right now. Not sure what I'll find, but I'll post here!
This all works for the DDFI-3 computers like the -'08-up XB's and all 1125's have.

Shatrat: No. When I say "Fuel map" or "Race map" I mean the .xpr file (ECMDroid) that has the fuel mapping info as well as the ECM parameters. There is no need to change firmware. Firmware is basically the OS on the computer. Your fuel map needs to match the firmware version, as they hold the mapping info in different locations.

I would suggest Buelltooth.com. They have been very helpful and you'll need a dongle and ECMDroid to communicate with the bike anyway. You can find both on their site. I believe they can supply maps of any firmware version to their customers, but I haven't been on the site for awhile.

 

[Shatrat]

Siverrider, I'd found that website but all the Race files are for the BUEGB hardware.

I have a USB to serial based cable for my laptop and an ECMspy license.
Maybe I wasted my money and should have gone with ECMDroid. I don't see anything on the ECMspy site about providing assistance with maps.

 

[nickdylan92]

You also have the option to cut fuel/spark, or just kill the spark and you will get a cool little popping between gears.

I'm sorry for re-opening an old thread, don't know the rules about that. But will it harm you engine if you only cut of spark and not spark and fuel? Because it has a bit more fuel to ignite at once from the cycle it cut off. Seems like a silly question because the whole point of a combustion engine is exploding fuel. But still I was wondering what these specific effects would be on high revs with a sudden increase of fuel out of nothing...

 

[Cooter]

Won't harm anything. And that simple program wouldn't give that option if it was harmful

I don't understand your specific question but the ignition is only cut for about 120-200ms. Even at redline that not enough power cycles to flood the cylinder or even richen it past re-ignition.