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Buell XB and 1125 Quickshifter install. CHEAP and EASY!

Buellxb Forum

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hey! hello everybody:afán:
in Xaloc from spain, and no speak english:trastornado: i have a two buells, xb12s (before scg) and 1125R with CR apparence.

I have participated a lot in the Spanish Buellmotards forum, but I am new here because I have a lot of problems with English (sometimes I use a translator)

I have installed shifter on both bikes, but the 1125 does not work. I thought the shifter would connect to the BAS connector, wouldn't it?
I have connected between negative (GND), and pin 3 of the gray connector. The xb does fantastically well (it has a map of twinmotorcycles is the ECM), but the 1125 does not cut the spark (it has an EBR map with an engraving "RACE USE ONLY").

What's the problem????
 
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With the bike running and the wheel raised, I shift into second gear and spin it. I connect a direct cable from the negative of the battery to pin 3, and it does nothing.

The leg lateral sensor is activated (here it is mandatory), but if it is deactivated it does not cut either.
 
They normally come that way. Just needed to check.

Does the grey wire show ground when you activate the shifter?

what is the gray wire? color doesn't matter, right?
I connect the sensor to ground, and to pin 3, and it doesn't work. If I connect pin 3 to ground, either.
 
Dope. THANK YOU for sharing, C!

This whole job took less that one beer! (15 mins) I paid about $145 for the sensor and $4 each for the rod ends. I feel its one of the best additions I've done to Stella. I will be buying lots of back tires, but not many fronts...;)

To use a quick shifter effectively, you want to be above 4K RPM and ON the throttle. I ride like that, and I don't normally use the clutch other than neutral to first, so training my throttle hand to stay on the throttle on upshifts instead of slightly releasing (to upshift) it wasn't that big a deal.

I tried using the clutch between every gear (like I'm lust learning how to ride:black_eyed:) and was surprised that I really didn't notice the ignition cut at all. I figure since you're off the throttle, so the engine is decelerating anyway.

Leaving the setting stock (I believe it's 120ms) is long enough to be effective in all the gears under a wide range of loads, but it is short enough that it won't kill the bike if you are in first (clutch in) and want to get to neutral.

Shift with authority. You don't need to kill or kick the lever, but a wimpy upshift won't have enough pressure to actually shift the trans. Motor will cut out (for 120ms) then back on, trans won't shift and you'll still pressing up on the lever. No worries. Just release and press up again, a little harder.

Since you will now be leaving the stop light and doing your 1-2 shift after 4K rpm... when the front tire touches back down and your mirrors re-alighn with the road behind you... don't give the cop my name, it won't help you:eagerness:.
 
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