Buell XB fuel pump removal in 7 minutes.

[Cooter]

These awesome bikes are getting older and the scourge of Ethanol in our gasoline and sitting in a garage is a hard life for a electric fuel pump.

I hope this serves as inspiration for the home mechanic to do this job themselves and get out there and RIDE your Buell!!
Couple of hints:
Its not always the pump itself so get a COMPLETE kit from a GOOD SOURCE, that includes the o-rings, internal hoses and seals, and of course the filter.
The o-rings on the output are different sizes, and DO NOT over tighten that 1/2" nut.
Put sealant on the 4 pump mounting bolts.
a tiny bit of grease on the o-rings helps install easily.
Do not be tempted by the cheap off-shore options, unless you like doing this job so much you want to do it twice?
Here ya go
Tools ya need.
drain pan, funnel, 1/2" wrench, 3/16" allen, T40 torx, prybar/spacer

Getting access:
An a-frame ladder and ratchet straps works really well if you don't have rafters, or a moto lift. You're only lifting about 100-150lbs so if you feel safe doing a chin-up on it you're good.

 

[Cooter]

Draining the always-topped-off-and-disgusting gas is always 'fun'. You can control the flow using the gas cap as a vent. No smoking!

Removal: Use one of the pump mount bolts (or rear-set bolt is the same) to pry it out. Slow pressure works better than trying to smash it out. You can add a washer to the bolt, or use a door trim removal tool if you have trouble with it slipping off the head.


Just like that!
Took 7 minutes including taking the video, so put down the beer and get out there and do it:very_drunk:

 

[Kurlon]

One small tip - For draining the gas, raid the kitchen and steal some aluminum foil. Use that to make a splash shield and flow diverter into the bucket/fuel jug/wife's finest mixing bowl or whatever you're catching the slop in. No gas soaked rags/etc to clean up after, and gas won't go through it so no gas mess transfer through either.

 

[Cooter]

Thats a good tip!


SMT

 

[motoguy]

I'd recommend picking up a small roll / bit of cable wrap as well. My '06 didn't have any and there were a couple of abrasion marks on my wires. The later bikes (08?) had it installed from the factory to prevent abrasion / shorting of the wires. You only need about 6" of it.



You'll also want a set of Oetiker pliers for the metal clamps on the fuel pump assembly.

https://www.amazon.com/Oetiker-14100396-Pincer-Straight-Jaw/dp/B01LBHX1CY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=oetiker+pliers&qid=1703251637&sr=8-3

Other than those two items, my Revision Moto kit had everything I needed. I'd recommend a Revision Moto kit or Aasgard kit. As mentioned in the OP, for a few extra $ you'll only have to do the job once. I started pricing the individual components, and for $100 I don't think you can beat the Revision Moto kit. It included the OEM Walbro pump as well.

 

[Cooter]

Thanks, love the info! Should I document the re-build process the next one I do?

 

[Starman]

Thanks Cooter, I have the fuel pump on my winter maintenance list. Helps to see the processes,

 

[motoguy]

I used the Aagaard video posted here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdRLwDRlqhA&t=2529s

It doesn't help with removal (there are other videos on that), but it does help with the rebuild. Once difference I ran into...he places the rubber hoses/fittings on the filter before installing the filter in the housing. I was unable to seat my filter when I did this. The rubber fittings "coned" up in the housing and wouldn't allow the filter to seat all the way. I had to install the rubber hose/fitting into the housings first, and then push the filter into them. I oiled up the nipples on the filter and this worked just fine. This allowed me to fully seat the filter.

All in all the process was pretty straightforward. Remember to oil / lube up your o-rings well prior to installing them, and make sure not to damage them as you install them (metal threads, sharp edges, etc). The O-rings on the fuel line fitting are 2 different sizes, but look the same size at first glance. They aren't the same size.

Speaking of the fuel line fitting, make sure you do not overtighten the fitting when you reinstall the unit into the bike frame. It appears to be a hollow brass fitting...I can only imagine how easily it can snap off.

 

[motoguy]

Cooter, I notice you didn't remove your rear wheel during the fuel pump exchange. I removed mine because I was concerned of damaging the belt at full extension when I removed the shock. If I can do the replacement without removing the rear wheel, the job just became much easier / faster.

 

[Cooter]

7 minutes, including the recording! :black_eyed:

Ahh! I didn't know Chaz had posted a vid, I'll check it out. I trust his work (and that's a RARE thing these days).

I agree with your installation tips and do it the same way myself. The fuel filter 'seals' supplied by Rev-Mo are just hose pieces cut to size, I'd recommend the OE seals (I think thats what Barrett supplies) as they fit much better. Both do work ok with a little lube. I address the outlet fitting and o-ring sizes in the vid, cranking on that poor 1/2" nut won't make it seal any better. If it leaks... som-ting went wong and you better take it back off and check.

I have noticed a weird thing with the large O-rings that seal the base. Once installed they swell a bit, so removing and trying to re-install them will pinch them. If you let them sit out overnight they'll shrink again. Weird. I only use Viton and haven't noticed that in any other application.

 

[Cooter]

An Scg with a new tire gets tight back there but I rarely have to remove the rear wheel. I can't tell if the belt gets tighter or looser, but it should stay approximately the same, because of the position of the tensioner. Thats why I can't stand the home-brew hole wobbling the tensioner bracket thing a couple people have done. IMO, don't engineer something if you're not an engineer. Either way I don't feel it's enough of a change to matter, and they are CRAZY strong. Like more than a tow strap strong

BUT, you make a good point I didn't mention to check the rear brake line at the master cylinder. If it's been moved or re-routed (like when changing the switch) it can get stretched. Holy heck I think I've changed 10 of those brake light switches this year. Every one of those had 20YO mud as brake fluid:down: FLUSH YOUR BRAKE FLUID EVERY YEAR PEOPLE!!!! It's cheap, and you don't even need to bleed it!:mad-new: But I digress....

 

[34nineteen]

Thats why I can't stand the home-brew hole wobbling the tensioner bracket thing a couple people have done. IMO, don't engineer something if you're not an engineer.

cough cough

like the engineer who built the one piece rear header pipe for the 1125/1190?

or better yet, the "Stark fix" for the 1190 airbox? I can only imagine that the original design was built by an engineer, just to be bested by Jacob ( I dont see it listed on Chaz's shop anymore).

or the Buell Super Tourer shown at Daytona a few years ago? I'm sure that falls back more on management as a "whose idea was it to hire this guy?"

There is a huge difference between engineering parts to be built in a clean well lit factory with every possible tool and resource at hard and parts that need to be installed by the end consumer in a dimly lit garage or carport who needs to justify a $100 tool that will only get used once, ever.

I'm not saying engineers dont know what they're doing, but sometimes they don't Who knows, maybe those belt tensioners were originally designed to have a little wiggle in them, but the notch would have cost an extra $1 and Erik said "No way". And I've seen it where production has to go back and fix an engineers oversight during the run.

In our cases, Harley, Erik and Co, left the building long ago, and its up to us to figure out if little tweaks need to be made to keep our bikes on the road. I dont think Erik or anyone from his engineering team has ever come on here to help point us in the right direction to engineer more longevity. I think we did get a stern warning from the "new Buell" legal team to not use their name or logos, but thats all I can remember. Maybe the Oracle Lunatic Fringe, will guide us?

 

[Cooter]

You ain't wrong about that.

I have cursed real Engineers, and their innocent progeny, many times over:upset: The way I see it, they owe me so many wrenches, and at least 2 windows:mad-new: Even then, I acknowledge they have design, cost, safety, failure point, and even obsolescence considerations that the end user does not.


My point is: Faking being a real Engineer, works out about as well as faking being a real Technician, and getting lucky doesn't make someone either of those things.

I am positive that the Engineers at Buell and Gates belts can provide massive amounts of analysis and testing documentation for belt wear and longevity, with considerations for MFG tolerances, weather, UV exposure and other things I wouldn't even know about. Hogging out a hole with a step drill... uh... isn't that.

And I am a hypocrite! Guilty as charged for engineering solutions without training or experience, and I shudder to think of some of the 'engineering' I did some 30+ years ago. So when I see others try those same solutions, and know how bad they were in hindsight, I try to help.

No pilot training but wanna fly a plane? OK, I hope you get lucky:eagerness:

"But I digress.." should be my new sig:black_eyed:

 

[Barrett]

Maybe the Oracle Lunatic Fringe, will guide us?

Happy New Year Aaron. Guide to where?
Some dubious info and suggestions on this thread.

 

[Cooter]

Some dubious info and suggestions on this thread.

If you have any helpful information to give, please elaborate.

 

[TheWood]

You ain't wrong about that.

I have cursed real Engineers, and their innocent progeny, many times over:upset: The way I see it, they owe me so many wrenches, and at least 2 windows:mad-new: Even then, I acknowledge they have design, cost, safety, failure point, and even obsolescence considerations that the end user does not.
View attachment 17257

My point is: Faking being a real Engineer, works out about as well as faking being a real Technician, and getting lucky doesn't make someone either of those things.

I am positive that the Engineers at Buell and Gates belts can provide massive amounts of analysis and testing documentation for belt wear and longevity, with considerations for MFG tolerances, weather, UV exposure and other things I wouldn't even know about. Hogging out a hole with a step drill... uh... isn't that.

And I am a hypocrite! Guilty as charged for engineering solutions without training or experience, and I shudder to think of some of the 'engineering' I did some 30+ years ago. So when I see others try those same solutions, and know how bad they were in hindsight, I try to help.

No pilot training but wanna fly a plane? OK, I hope you get lucky:eagerness:

"But I digress.." should be my new sig:black_eyed:

Hey there Shaughn. You're obviously referring to the very slightly enlarged holes on the tensioner bracket. Done right(like I did)I stand 100% behind my easing the ridiculous tension that created early graves to many bearings apparently. "Hogging out a hole with a step drill" is crazy hyperbole. Using a step drill would of course be stupid as fluck! After doing it properly, there is still major tension on the belt. After replacing my rear wheel 3 bearings and installing a new belt, it seemed obvious to me that there is no harm with this slight modification.

 

[Barrett]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Happy New Year Bob. Shaughn only mentioned the modded tensioner bracket to take a slightly oblique bitch-slap at me. My Amish engineering annoys him. Keep living your own life. LOL

 

[TheWood]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Happy New Year Bob. Shaughn only mentioned the modded tensioner bracket to take a slightly oblique bitch-slap at me. My Amish engineering annoys him. Keep living your own life. LOL

Perhaps I misread his sense of humor; Sorry Shaughn. All is good, and my belt is still tight as a stretched tow strap.

 

[Cooter]

Sheesh!:black_eyed:

Shaughn only mentioned the modded tensioner bracket to take a slightly oblique bitch-slap at me. My Amish engineering annoys him. Keep living your own life. LOL

John, you are a fountain of information, and we are seriously blessed to have you here with us. I think you're great! No worries here, I've got no reason to lash out at anyone! My statement was for the broader meaning 'know what you are doing or own the consequences' and I hope we can all agree with that. Like I said, I'm a hypocrite, and have paid MANY a consequence.

Bob, I'm just happy, that you're happy! I'm glad your mod works for you:eagerness::eagerness:



So... what type of oil do you guys like? Maybe put a little 2-stroke in it?:upset:

 

[Barrett]

^^^^^^^^^^
Hey Shaughn: Thanks a ton for the kind words and you know I've always had the utmost respect for you as well and all the help you've provided people on here for over a decade now.
And I remember that blown-out roadside rear wheel bearing replacement you did ions ago. As entertaining as your ECM trip replacement several summers ago.