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Cafe racer build - wiring question

Buellxb Forum

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lowklass

Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2021
Messages
6
Hi All, im in the process of converting my XB12R into a cafe racer, but i got shafted with using 2 different manuals for wiring diagrams. Both from Buell but with different colors for wires. Hense the need to restart the job and double check each wire one by one.

My question is, would anyone here have removed their instrement console to give it that minimal look?

And if so, can i wire led lights as my indicator lights for check engine, neutral light, oil light, ect?

Do i need to add resistors anywhere to allow tha bike to start without the cluster?

Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers
 

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Most of the wires in the diagram match, except for one or two on the cluster, but some reasoning will figure out that they just changed the color code on the two wires. I know this as I had to splice a new front wiring harness on my bike when a previous owner decided to chop the harness and get rid of the cluster. Meth is a helluva drug.

You can wire in LED lights for those indicators as all the cluster is doing is holding the bulbs. Most Sportsters did this. You may want to consider running a small digital speedometer such as a Motogadget or a Koyo, cause nothing is worse than wondering how fast youre really going with the popo in your rear view. The bike will start and run without the cluster. Its not CANBUS.

What headlamp brackets did you use?
 
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I went with the only available amazon 50mm fork clamp model...

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B088FPP87T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Came out pretty good.

Thanks for the follow-up. I was equally asking since the bike will not start now, crans but no start. So i will back track and double check all the wiring.
Maybe the clutch switch needs to be bypassed?
I figured it might be teh bank sensor as well causing the no start.

The clutch switch should affect the starter cranking, not the running. The bank angle sensor will cause the engine to crank but not run, if its tripped or disconnected. You may want to plug the cluster in to check for codes... or use something like ECMDroid and a Buelltooth module to check for codes. Or just jumper off the diagnostic port, but you will need to cluster plugged back in to read the flashing light.

1. Make sure the fuel pump is working and the bike has gas in it.
2. Spray some (flammable) carb/brake cleaner or starting fluid down the throttle body and try to start it.

If it starts (even for a moment), you have a fuel delivery problem. If not, you have an ignition issue. Figure this out first.
 
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Do you hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds when you turn the key on?
It is tied to the ignition circuit. No pump= no run.

Good point. Since you have removed the ignition switch. Did you jumper both of the leads in the plug the ignition switch plugged into?

I think there are 2 red leads and one red/gray and one red/black. Connect a red wire to the red/gray and the other red to the red/black. It could be that only half of the ignition circuit is active.

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I assume it is an ignition problem. The fuel pumps primes, engine cranks, but no start. Might be the bank angle sensor, and i suspect the ignition relay might be wired wrong due to the different diagrams i used.
Im actually on my way out to spend some quality time with my bike and reacess the wiring.
I will follow up with feedback later on.
Cheers
 
Not much riding in the rain then?:black_eyed:

Why do you keep thinking it's the BAS? Do you understand what it does? If it's been re-located it does have a proper mounting position, but it isn't critical to have it perfectly level. You can also easily turn off its function using ECMDroid.

Could just be the usual project bike fouled plugs. They foul really fast if the bike is test-started a couple times and not ridden. Remove, clean them with brake and parts cleaner, blow dry, and see if that does it?
 
Not much riding in the rain then?:black_eyed:

Why do you keep thinking it's the BAS? Do you understand what it does? If it's been re-located it does have a proper mounting position, but it isn't critical to have it perfectly level. You can also easily turn off its function using ECMDroid.

Could just be the usual project bike fouled plugs. They foul really fast if the bike is test-started a couple times and not ridden. Remove, clean them with brake and parts cleaner, blow dry, and see if that does it?

Thanks for the heads up Cooter, got it running. Was the power wire to the ignition relay that wasnt wired up right.
 
Not much riding in the rain then?:black_eyed:

Why do you keep thinking it's the BAS? Do you understand what it does? If it's been re-located it does have a proper mounting position, but it isn't critical to have it perfectly level. You can also easily turn off its function using ECMDroid.

I had to disable the BAS on my bike, cause it kept shutting down when I was pulling big G's on the turns. Erik Buell himself was making me a custom calibrated one before he was shut down by the corporate greed mongers from HD.
 
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