Can Anyone Make This For Me?

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I have a vendor in PA that laser cuts and CNC bends. PM me if you want their contact info. They'll probably need more than a pdf though... dxf at a minimum but you'd have to ask them.
 
have u tried just printing the PDF, maybe its the right scale???

I've got some sheets of aluminum, and a few road signs (nice thick aluminum) either of those would work great i bet. maybe ill try and make one by hand, wish i was friends with a CNC guy :D
 
If you took your time this can be done with a dermal,drill and a vice, along with a piece of sheet metal. Obviously a small torch to heat the metal would get you a tighter bend. If you are a do it yourselfer I say go for it.
 
cold bend the aluminum, .032" -.060" aluminum would do just fine for that, a vice, any thickness lumber that you can sandwich the sheetmetal and put in the vice will work, use another piece to push the metal over, use a scribe or other sharp pointed object to make your lines outlining the bends, when placing the material between the lumber in the vice, the scribed line should be visible...remember to bend the material in the direction of the grain, if not you can crack it. a press break would be best since you have tabs on either side, relief holes drilled to avoid stress cracking at bends, you need to have some dimensions to allow for the bend or you'll come up short...like mentioned above that's pretty simple job

have u tried just printing the PDF, maybe its the right scale???
Click to expand...

same thought here, cut it out and lay it up on the bike and see...
 
I have talked to a guy here in Portland OR. He said about $90 a piece made by hand, and upwards of a hundred (i think considerably upwards) for CNC or whatever. If there's any other people interested, I could see about getting some done. I think that the PDF you linked is the correct size (according to the thread from where I snatched my copy on badweb or advrider, i don't remember which). Measurements would definitely be wise, however. I think making one initially would be needed for a test run and I have been putting off doing mine. This might just motivate me to get-er-done.

Here is a 2-piece I found that has measurements for comparison purposes:
2-piece tidy
2 piece tidy pt. 2

Also, my only concern is whether this will affect any spray from the rear tire onto my back. I leave the topbox on, as this is my commuter, but these ulys seem to be more of a function-over-form kinda bike...

Let me talk to my guy and PM me if anyone is interested in ordering one. Very tentative right now, until I get mine done. If anyone else can make a few for a better price or if this seems like too high for the relatively simple job, pipe up!
 
I just found this on another site. All pictures are expired, but I think these measurements refer to the one piece template. Google search for treadmarks tail tidy. Oooh, i'm getting itchy to get this done...

"I had a few minutes at work yesterday and decided to knock this out. Was way easy!

The sheet of paper above is standard 8.5" x 11" for size reference. (Donated from our copy machine) Different states/countries have different size tags. After marking the centerline, place your tag on the bottom as shown, then trace around tag and mounting holes.

The distance between the first line from the top, and the second line is 4.7".
The distance between the holes on the top line is 6.7".
The distance between the holes on the second line is 2.8"

I laid out 3/4" washers just to give me an idea where my outside lines would go.

I went with oversize 1.0" washers on the top because these holes need to fit over the mounting posts for the forward mounts.

Use a straight edge and draw lines connecting all of the circle outsides. Add tabs for blinkers of your choice. Stock width was 1.2"

Cut out template, tape it to your material, centerpunch all hole locations, then trace around template with marker.

Rough cutout, with 1/8" pilot holes drilled and bend locations marked.

Smooth out all rough edges with file, use step drill to drill 3/8" holes in all locations, and 3/4" holes at forward mounting points. (I used a hydraulic greenlee hole punch for the big holes, but those are not really needed. They do look pretty spiffy tho!
I used a large vise with wood 2x4s to bend main bend. I also used a cresent wrench to bend blinker tabs. Try to get bends right the first time, as too many adjustments will cause the metal to weaken.
Another option would be to go to your local sheet metal shop and ask them to use a sheet metal brake to make the bends.

Perform a rough fit to locate key lock to suit your preference. Careful not to drill hole too large like I did. File notch in hole to hold key lock so it won't rotate. Mark and drill mounting holes and locating tabs for blinkers of your choice. Mark and drill hole for blinker wires to pass through plate to harness.
It may help to bend forward mounting points up on the sides, because the bottom of the tail section is not really flat.

I used 2 each, pieces of 3/4" heater hose, cut to 1/2" length with large fender washers to pull up the forward mounting points. You may also want to use weatherstrip to form a gasket to better seal out the elements.

Hope this helps 'splain things, and good luck fabbin yer own"

Credit where credit is due: thanks Treadmarks!
 
Found out tonight that a shop near me has a plasma cutter, so I may be using them depending on the price. Helps that my Mom works for them. [up]
 

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