I've been messing with my blast for about 3 weeks trying to get it to start and run by itself. The only way I've been able to get it to start is with starting fluid directly into the carb even then it won't stay running. I've checked fuel lines and everything else I can think of. Please help.
Can't get blast to start.
- Thread starter Cphilll94
- Start date
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rchuff
Well-known member
I think you should be asking the blast vet this question. ( jetlee). He is the blast man.
rchuff
Well-known member
Did you try changing the plug? It might be fouled.
jetlee
Well-known member
Since it's not staying running even with starting fluid, I would check compression. It's quick and easy.
Then change the boot. It's cheap and the tiniest of cracks will ruin it. Scrub the carb and manifold with a wire brush so the sealing surface is nice and smooth for a good seal.
Past that it sounds like a fuel issue. Remove the carburetor, remove the fuel bowl (carefully), remove the cap (carefully), remove the slide assembly (keep needle/plastic/spring in order). Then spray the living hell out of everything that's not rubber with a can or two of carb cleaner.
Put the slide assembly back into place and the cap on top (careful not to pinch the diaphragm). Replace the fuel bowl. Snug the screws down securely, do not over-tighten them.
The screws on the fuel bowl and cap are soft japanese screws (Keihin carb). If you don't have the proper JIS screwdriver, being very careful with a #2 phillips. Or you can use a dremel/hacksaw to slot the screws and use a flathead driver.
Then change the boot. It's cheap and the tiniest of cracks will ruin it. Scrub the carb and manifold with a wire brush so the sealing surface is nice and smooth for a good seal.
Past that it sounds like a fuel issue. Remove the carburetor, remove the fuel bowl (carefully), remove the cap (carefully), remove the slide assembly (keep needle/plastic/spring in order). Then spray the living hell out of everything that's not rubber with a can or two of carb cleaner.
Put the slide assembly back into place and the cap on top (careful not to pinch the diaphragm). Replace the fuel bowl. Snug the screws down securely, do not over-tighten them.
The screws on the fuel bowl and cap are soft japanese screws (Keihin carb). If you don't have the proper JIS screwdriver, being very careful with a #2 phillips. Or you can use a dremel/hacksaw to slot the screws and use a flathead driver.
jetlee
Well-known member
You can rent a compression gauge. To buy, they can be had for like $20-$40.
Remove tank cover.
Remove tank snubbers.
Remove tank bracket (on bottom that cover was bolted to).
Remove fuel line from petcock.
Remove tank (requires some force, it's ok, pull it straight back).
Remove spark plug.
Screw in compression gauge (careful to not crossthread)
Hold throttle WOT and crank the engine over a few times.
Write down number on gauge.
Depress pressure relief button on gauge.
Test a couple more times and write down all the numbers.
Reinstall everything opposite of removal.
Report back here with compression number.
Remove tank cover.
Remove tank snubbers.
Remove tank bracket (on bottom that cover was bolted to).
Remove fuel line from petcock.
Remove tank (requires some force, it's ok, pull it straight back).
Remove spark plug.
Screw in compression gauge (careful to not crossthread)
Hold throttle WOT and crank the engine over a few times.
Write down number on gauge.
Depress pressure relief button on gauge.
Test a couple more times and write down all the numbers.
Reinstall everything opposite of removal.
Report back here with compression number.
Did the compression test and it came back 9.2:1. When I returned the gauge they said that sounds about right. I also took the carb off and looked at the boot and there is a crack on the inside that doesn't go completely through. I still think it's not getting fuel. Can I use the seafoam carb cleaning trick?
jetlee
Well-known member
How'd you get 9.2:1? The gauge should read psi. 9.2:1 is the static compression ratio, the dynamic ratio would actually be lower given valve open/close events. Neither of which value can be derived from the compression value in psi.
That crack is bad. Replace the boot.
Seafoam won't do anything at all if fuel isn't already flowing through it.
That crack is bad. Replace the boot.
Seafoam won't do anything at all if fuel isn't already flowing through it.
jetlee
Well-known member
To get the recessed jet out...use a small screwdriver.
Have you replaced the boot yet?
When the engine is turning over, look at the ignition module on the right side, make sure the red light is blinking as it turns.
Have you replaced the boot yet?
When the engine is turning over, look at the ignition module on the right side, make sure the red light is blinking as it turns.
jetlee
Well-known member
Get Dan's SuperBoot at http://buellridersonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7730
jetlee
Well-known member
Don't upgrade the jets until you get it running. Have you blown everything out completely with carb cleaner?
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