Can't Remove T27 Torx Bolt

[devonbiker]

Was attempting to change my front brake pads the other day when I hit a problem - removing the T27 Torx bolts which hold the front mudguard. I've never removed them before and they were TIGHT! I managed to removed 3x bolts but the 4th was so hard that I must have turned it only half a dozen times when the torx thread shred alittle now preventing me from removing the bolt. I can't tighten it or remove it. The bolt is about flush with the plastic mudguard now from it's recess. Seems Buell were over keen adding Locktight 565 when they built the bike I guess?

Any ideas how to remove it?

 

[Shawns]

Easy out kit and some penetrating oil. Take your time and work it back in and out.

 

[adrnlnjnky700]

yea, i was trying to remove mine as well to change my tire. i ended up just lifting the bike up some more so i could get the tire off because i couldnt get those bolts out. there was a ton of loctite on there.

Easy out kit and some penetrating oil.  Take your time and work it back in and out

that should work though

 

[06xbss]

Sounds like you almost have the bolt out and just stripped the torx part of it............... If that's the case, I'd just use a dremel tool and cut a slot for using a flat blade screwdriver.

 

[ReconLdr]

Sounds like you almost have the bolt out and just stripped the torx part of it............... If that's the case, I'd just use a dremel tool and cut a slot for using a flat blade screwdriver.

If this doesn't work. Use drill to drill off the bolt head, remove the mud guard then grab the nub with a pair of vice grips.

 

[ROOK]

I've broken off two torx bits in the last month with all the stuff I'm doing...

 

[Noss4atwo]

I had to easy out mine as well. It was also the front fender. Pain in the butt.

 

[hntnfsh]

If you have a reversible impact driver, you can use that with a T27 socket. Had to on mine. Make sure you have the bike secured and apply enough pressure from the opposite side of the fork to keep the T27 engaged or you'll just strip it even worse.

Good luck. Replacement screws are over two bucks apiece...

 

[devonbiker]

I'm going to get my local bike mechanic to do it. The Torx T27 is rock solid and only out by a couple of turns. Even removing the head might be difficult because the fender is so close. Can't believe how soft these Torx bolts are, I have just order 4x new ones [£2.95 each!!!] to replace the ones that hold the base of the airbox to the frame because they are showing signs of going also.

I thought about replacing the Torx with an allen key type bolt but all the bolts on the Buell are AF and not metric. We do metric here in the UK so finding replacement bolts that are AF with the right thread and head type will be a challenge/impossible I reckon. So in the mean time I'm keeping my Harley dealer afloat by paying their high prices.

Can anyone recommend where one can source alternative AF nuts and bolts for the Buell without going to harley? I mean they are charging £1.23GBP [I think it was] for one of those plastic clear washers!!

 

[Negative]

Those are pretty high prices for rinky dink bolts and ridiculous for one plastic washer ... How about this? or this (even tho it's zinc plated carbon screws) .....

 

[devonbiker]

Negative; that first one you posted looks good and ill use that for reference. Yes incredibly ridiculous prices into the greedy category me thinks.

 

[Negative]

Those are the correct sizes you need ... 1/4-20 button head shoulder torx bolts ... Should be the same for all of those T27's ... The 1125's use a metric bolt ...

 

[devonbiker]

If you have a reversible impact driver, you can use that with a T27 socket. 

This bolt feels welded, it will not move in the slightest!

I'd just use a dremel tool and cut a slot for using a flat blade screwdriver.

Tried cutting a slot for a screw driver but couldn't budge it. So I tried my impact driver and that didn't budge it either.

Use drill to drill off the bolt head, remove the mud guard then grab the nub with a pair of vice grips.

It would be tight and I might mark the plastic mudguard. My main concern is that it's so tight that it might make it next to impossible to removed whats left?

I don't see how this is possible to remove being that it's SO tight and feels permanent? Some of the other torx bolts look like they have had some loctite or similar added in the past because there is a blue ring on some of the shoulders of the bolts. I don't remember ever removing the mudguard so I don't think i've done it! Either way I'm in a pickle!

 

[Jasenko9643]

I would use a brass or aluminum punch and smaller hammer. Tap the head of the bolt few times followed by the application of penetrating oil, let it sit few minutes then 3-4 more hits, then try unbolting it

 

[dmp0001]

I had this problem with a bolt for the chin fairing. I ended up removing the head with a drill bit and removeing the rest with some vice grips after i got the body piece off.

 

[stensg]

Everyone keeps saying t27 but my 1125 has t30 bolts.[confused] Maybe you are striping them because your using the wrong bit? I've had some Hella tight stuff and yet to strip one. I also use a security bit the kind with the hole in the center so if it is going to strip it will break the bit first. I've broke 2 and on the third one i soaked the bolt in wd40 for a few days before it let loose.

 

[devonbiker]

Everyone keeps saying t27 but my 1125 has t30 bolts. Maybe you are  striping them because your using the wrong bit?

Definitely not T30 on my bike. I am using the right bit as I've checked a few times.

 

[devonbiker]

Fixed it and it's now been removed. Thanks for all your advise. I sprayed some WD40 around the bolt both sides and jacked the bike up so I could hit the impack drive harder - and it worked. Took alot of hits. Once removed the bolt looked very clean, no mass loctite or anything??

 

[Negative]

A lot of the problems people have with stuck bolts/stripped bolts and stuff like that is because of the materials used ... the bolts are steel ... a lot of the stuff they bolt into is aluminum ... these two metals don't really agree with each other in that sense so they will eventually seize up over time ... it's just the nature of the materials ... It sucks you had to encounter that crap man ... it really sucks when it happens to something a bit more important than the mudguard ... lol

 

[devonbiker]

Very true Negative, which leads to me ask, the new bolts I've ordered will come with some loctite already on them. Will the loctite have a problem with the WD40 I sprayed on the threads? I'm noticing all my threads are dry. So it's like being stuck between a rock and a hard place. In one sense the threads need some lubricating to stop from seizing but on the other hand we need to use Loctite so they don't vibrate off! Can the two mix? I'm thinking not.