Changing a head gasket, have a question?

[Metzman]

2006 XB9R

rear head gasket is blown (loud and obvious).

Can I change the rear cylinder head gasket with the engine in the frame? It looks very doable, wondering if anyone has tried?

Thanks for the advice in advance!

Metz

 

[rchuff]

You can do it but you have to swing front of motor down and when you get head off just move it to the side to do gasket.

 

[user_deleted]

steve: what rick said above. link below is great post done up by wiznut a few years ago on engine rotation with pics. it should be extremely helpful. also....the gasket sets for these types of jobs can get a bit confusing in both content and part number. alot of members including myself prefer James. competitively priced and absolute top quality. here is the James part # for all XB's 2003-2006 full top-end gasket kit: JGI-17049-04-X.

http://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?16821-How-to-Rotate-your-engine-With-Pics!

 

[Metzman]

Thanks guys!
Metz

 

[Dellinger]

I've used Cometic top end kits with great results. Be sure to change the base gasket, it'll leak if you don't. Pull the jug and leave the piston in the bore. Pull the wrist pin clip and push out the pin. Easier than the ring compression tool. Use a new c-clip.

 

[Metzman]

Ok, good to know, thank you Dellinger!

 

[Metzman]

Well, I went off the deep end now...

Since I needed a head gasket, and the old Buellster has had a hard shifting issue in 4th and 5th gears, I went ahead and pulled the engine testerday for a complete tear down all the way to the trans. I figure I can fix all the little issues, freshen it up with a set of rings and valve guide seals, and get her ready for the next 30K miles.

If you know of any internal issues or simple improvements, tips, tricks, must do's, to be made to the XB9R while I have it ALL the way apart, now is the time to share!

Thanks, Metz

 

[Cooter]

here is the James part # for all XB's 2003-2006 full top-end gasket kit: JGI-17049-04-X.

Good info! +1 for you... I cataloged the #

I've used Cometic top end kits with great results. Be sure to change the base gasket, it'll leak if you don't. Pull the jug and leave the piston in the bore. Pull the wrist pin clip and push out the pin. Easier than the ring compression tool. Use a new c-clip.

Also fantastic info. More points! Way to think outside the box on the jug removal. I just waited a week for a different ring compressor to show up, because I didn't think of that:upset:

Metzman: If you need anything trans related like parts, heat treating, or upgrades, call these guys: Mark at R&D transmissions, Clearwater, FL. 727-447-4552. Seriously THE place to go.

 

[Metzman]

Sweet! Thanks, Cooter!

 

[Metzman]

Checking in after a long winter's rest

As I posted on 10-21-15, I removed engine from the Buell after blowing a head gasket while goofing off on a wonderful October Saturday night ride. Since then I have been busy raising my 2 boys and taking care of my wife, celebrating the holidays, and my son's birthday, all the while sneeking time in to work on the Buell. While I had it apart I decided to freshen it up, I don't want to be this deep in it again for as long as possible!

I replaced the piston rings, honed the cylinders, installed new valve stem seals, all new gaskets, complete de-carbonizing of the intake tract from the throttle body to the valves, new 1st/2nd gear shift fork, new clutch cable, and I added a Jardine RT-1 muffler.

While I had it apart I also had the shift drum, shift forks, and shift shafts Dicronite coated (www.dicronite.com) to keep them moving easily and help with the hard shifting issue into 4th and 5th that the bike was troubled by. This process adds a super slippery coating infused into the metal so there is no buildup (0.0002"), and it really allows things to move easily even when not lubricated by oil. Think of it as the oil on the components when the oil isn't there, adding oil to it only makes it work better. I can say that without a doubt the bike now shifts as easily as any motorcycle I have ever owned. The shift action is smooth, light, and solid.

Just to be clear, the hard shifting issue was caused by the dowel in the 1st/2nd shift fork coming loose and binding in the shift drum. The Dicronite just makes everything feel soo much smoother!

Last night I finished reassembling the Buell and started it for the first time with the new Jardine RT-1 exhaust. It really sounds nice!

Rode it to work today, VERY HAPPY! :up:

 

[djs2k2]

Congratulations