Changing Front Tire

[Bat-1]

Decided I'm going to take the plunge and start doing my own tire changes.

Front tire on the 1125 is my first go at it.

My first speed bump was lack of a 22mm hex bit. Mine did not come with that adapter in the tool bag and jamming a spark plug wrench in there didn't seem like a great idea. Ordered the multi-size axle socket from Amazon.

Next potential problem is getting the caliper off. Since I have it on a standard front fork stand I can't easily rotate the caliper holder to remove it as instructed in the service manual.

If I remove the axle and drop the wheel (thereby allowing it to move towards the motor a bit) will I have enough room to wiggle off the caliper?

I suppose this is a long way of asking if the front tire be changed using a standard front fork wheel stand?

If no one knows I'll follow up and answer the question for posterity.

 

[d_adams]

There are cutouts on the back side of the caliper, they'll line up with the spokes. Tape the spokes off with masking tape to prevent scratching. Use a flat blade screwdriver to push/pry the pads back into the caliper (both sides) to allow for maximum room to remove the caliper if you want to do it that way. It can be left attached to the fork if you want, but I usually remove it (leave the brake line connected) just to have it out of the way.

Use a spark plug socket to loosen the axle. Easy way is use a 6" extension and put it into the socket from the front side.



Pitbull stands work well, I assume the cheaper ones will as well. T-Rex, Venom, whatever.

 

[user_deleted]

My first speed bump was lack of a 22mm hex bit. Mine did not come with that adapter in the tool bag and jamming a spark plug wrench in there didn't seem like a great idea. Ordered the multi-size axle socket from Amazon.

typical great info from dean.
see my pic. it works like a charm every time. all BUELL...BMW....V-STROM...ASSORTED OTHER HOLLOW AXLES.
if nothing else extremely helpful to know and remember this for road-side assistance as well as typical shop work.

 

[Cooter]

I have the problem that most of my large spark plug socks don't have the 3/8" square broached all the way through. Grrr...
I've had to jam a 5/8" nut (usually a 13/16" hex) on a bolt and use that. It doesn't work as well.

OP, since you are new at this let me recommend two things:
1) Replace your wheel bearings regardless of mileage. They are cheap, easy to swap (6004-2RS front, 6005-2RS rear IIRC, Lunatic has the right ones) and will save you a trip one day.
2) Torque the axles correctly. Since you don't have the axle tool, you probably need to buy a torque wrench but do it anyway. Front wheel is 20 ft/lbs, spin it, back off 2 turns and then re-torque to 40ft/lbs. The rear is the same procedure 25ft/lbs- 50 ft/lbs (IIRC)

IMO

 

[pdksh]

I have checked all of my spark plug sockets (one free in every box of cereal it seems like) and ones at the hardware store. None of them are bored all the way through. I picked up a funny looking tool that has stepped metric sizes like 19mm, 22mm. 24mm with a 3/8 socket at a local bike shop. When I needed a side of the road tire change, the YAMAHA bike shop mechanic welded two bolts together to make a tool. I told him I had the tool under the seat if he had asked. I think St. Paul HD is selling them on sale for a ridiculous low price.

^^^ Change those Bearings ^^^ +1

 

[Silverrider]

Decided I'm going to take the plunge and start doing my own tire changes.

Front tire on the 1125 is my first go at it.

My first speed bump was lack of a 22mm hex bit. Mine did not come with that adapter in the tool bag and jamming a spark plug wrench in there didn't seem like a great idea. Ordered the multi-size axle socket from Amazon.

Next potential problem is getting the caliper off. Since I have it on a standard front fork stand I can't easily rotate the caliper holder to remove it as instructed in the service manual.

If I remove the axle and drop the wheel (thereby allowing it to move towards the motor a bit) will I have enough room to wiggle off the caliper?

I suppose this is a long way of asking if the front tire be changed using a standard front fork wheel stand?

If no one knows I'll follow up and answer the question for posterity.

Get a bolt with a 7/8 head and 2 nuts jam them on it , you will be good to go.

 

[Bat-1]

Got the axle tool before I read any of this. Clever thing that. Worked great, axle came out without issue.



Once the wheel dropped and was able to move towards the motor there's enough room to remove the caliper. I had already removed the mounting bolts. Not sure if it would work with the caliper still mounted.

So now I'm bearing shopping: All Balls or Drag Specialties? Anything superior? I'm no racer.

I have several torque wrenches and this tool is a standard 3/8 inch drive so no problem there.

 

[wickedchop]

All balls.......do the right thing and PM John and get them from him! (Lunaticfringe)

 

[Bat-1]

SKF seems to have good buzz on the forums. Never bought bearings before.

 

[Bat-1]

So is the advice to replace the bearings because there are known issue with the stock one's?

Here's what mine look like:



The bike is going on 11 years old but only has 7k on it.

I ended up ordering SKF brand. All Balls are not universally loved to put it mildly. Rebranded Chinese from what I read.

 

[Silverrider]

I think what Cooter was suggesting, just to play it safe change them then you will not have to worry about them on a adventure and have them act up since you have the wheel off all ready. No know issues just 11 yrs old ??

 

[konarider94]

So is the advice to replace the bearings because there are known issue with the stock one's?

Here's what mine look like:

View attachment 10890

The bike is going on 11 years old but only has 7k on it.

I ended up ordering SKF brand. All Balls are not universally loved to put it mildly. Rebranded Chinese from what I read.

I agree, any name brand is the way to go. SKF, NSK, Timken, FAG. Just be sure to order them from a reputable source. There are lots of pirated parts out there especially with bearings.

 

[Cooter]

That pic shows either the wrong bearings, or the seals came out. They are Junk now, and check the rears.

When Buell wheel bearings fail, it is usually catastrophic and usually without warning. You may get a weird un-timed cracking noise from the hub, or you may have a loud muffler or ear plugs that won't let you hear it. If you hear that noise (I have) you have a dangerous > 50 miles to go before you are calling a tow truck, stuck in the 'hood, where your helmet is worth more money than most the cars on the street and they haven't seen a sober person in months. (Avalon and the 110 fwy) . OR you are 1800 miles from home, 100 miles from anywhere and 200 miles from ONE bearing (Napa) and 200 miles from the OTHER bearing (Napa) and thank you again Opto for saving my butt:angel:...but I digress:upset:

I promise you they will never fail while the bike is apart in your garage and you conveniently have the time to fix it, like right now. :sorrow:

SR is right. I'm saying to replace them when you are putting on tires. Yours are 11 years old on a barely ridden bike (50-ish miles a month) =condensation=rust pitting=ruin your day. For less than $30 and 5 minutes of your time while the wheel is off and staring at you, I'm suggesting a tiny bit of preventative maintenance.
Lots of strong opinions with bearing mfg's, so I'll stay out of that one. I have used All Balls with never a problem, but I replace mine every time I put on tires so...

This isn't just for the OP, its a PSA for easy maintenance that will save you untold time money and inconvenience.
IMO.

 

[Bat-1]

The photo is after I pried off the orange dust cover. I knocked both of them out today but noticed they are 6005, NTN brand. Cooter said front should be 6004 so that's what I ordered. Is that correct?

I have no dog in the hunt about where All Balls are mfg. but a guy on the CBR forum emailed them. Here's his question and the answer he got:

"I would like to know more about your product, Part Number 25-1415. Are the bearing parts "completely" made in the USA with USA "parts" or are pieces to this kit made from China produced materials?"

All Balls answer:
"We do the design and specifications on the bearing in house , then they are manufactured in China to our specs. They are a Abec 3 level same as OEM."

Paul Waslin
All BAllS Racing
Bearings and Components
822 North Reading Ave.
New Berlinville, PA 19545.

 

[konarider94]

The photo is after I pried off the orange dust cover. I knocked both of them out today but noticed they are 6005, NTN brand. Cooter said front should be 6004 so that's what I ordered. Is that correct?

I have no dog in the hunt about where All Balls are mfg. but a guy on the CBR forum emailed them. Here's his question and the answer he got:

"I would like to know more about your product, Part Number 25-1415. Are the bearing parts "completely" made in the USA with USA "parts" or are pieces to this kit made from China produced materials?"

All Balls answer:
"We do the design and specifications on the bearing in house , then they are manufactured in China to our specs. They are a Abec 3 level same as OEM."

Paul Waslin
All BAllS Racing
Bearings and Components
822 North Reading Ave.
New Berlinville, PA 19545.

6005 is the size of the front. 6006 is for the rear.

6004 isnt gonna work. Hopefully you can cancel that order.

I have used all balls as well and ran them for 10-15k miles. I will never admit to them being as good as a known brand bearing though. Cost can be a deciding factor.

 

[wickedchop]

I've also seen that email response on the internet, where? I don't quite remember. Sooooooo, is it a real email? Has anyone ever called all balls and asked them are they made in China? Regardless, I get mine for my Buells from John and also run them in all my track bikes and never had an issue.

 

[34nineteen]

I bought my bearings from Lunaticfringe as well, and aside from him opening an occasional can of whoop-ass on me, I've been extremely pleased.

 

[Cooter]

I guessed at the part numbers ..."IIRC"..., hopefully you can get the right ones. Lunatic will help you out.

I don't care where anythings made, I know what quality is.

 

[njloco]

Be careful, since the season has ended, he stocked up on those cans of whoop ass !

 

[Bat-1]

The 6004s I ordered are returnable but will fit on the front of my CBR 600rr so I'm keeping them.

I don't like a mystery so contacted All Balls. Helen Turner -- [email protected] -- responded within a couple hours.

She confirmed that their wheel bearings are 100% Chinese made. Some of their steering head bearings are made in India. Mystery solved. The Internet isn't always wrong.