Charging Issue

[walnuts]

To start, I have a 2003 XB9S with just over 28,000 miles on it. Recently, my battery went dead as what I thought was a result of sitting for too long during shipping of the bike from US to Europe. I've just replaced the battery with a brand new one which was fully charged when I installed it. Started the bike to check it worked and bike started just fine. A few days later I rode it to work. In the morning it started just fine. In the afternoon there was a split second hesitation but it still started first try so I thought nothing of it at the time. This morning (3 days sitting in the garage later) I tried to start it and the battery didn't have enough juice to get it going at all. I am currently 3750 miles away from my home, my tools, and my garage so this is really frustrating me. I didn't notice any issues during riding when I could it started the other day, no dimming of lights, no stuttering at idle, etc. so I feel like it isn't the stator. However, I am concerned/convinced at this point that it is a bad rectifier.

The rectifier is what controls the voltage going from the stator to the battery to maintain the charge, correct? I don't believe the 77 connector on my bike has ever been changed out for the updated one but I do not know that to be a fact either. I am going to attempt to get an eye on the connector this afternoon when I get home from work to see if there is any signs of arcing or build up of corrosion inside of it.

I am hoping that the parking attendant will have something they can use to jump start my bike, otherwise I'll I have to find someone else that can. I know, if its from a car battery, make sure the car is not running.

I am tempted to just replace the entire rectifier and connector with the item available from American Sport Bike just to cover all the bases. Does it sound like I am on the right path here? From what I've read in my searches (the search function here is terrible!) it sounds like I am but most of the other threads I've read indicated issues with running also.

Can anyone point me to a picture that shows where the rectifier is located? I'm not with my bike at the moment and I'd like to be able to think this through a bit more before I make a decision. I know the manual is available above, but I cannot download it at this computer.

I know its not possible to diagnose an issue like this over the internet, I'm just looking for a sanity check to make sure it is realistic that I'm heading in the right direction to solve the issue and not over looking something due to my frustration

 

[go cytocis]

The VR is a finned black box, about the size of a pack of butts, located just ahead of the front header pipe.

Your symptoms are not inconsistent with a bad VR or 77 connector, so if you are unable to run a proper diagnosis using a multi-meter, it's possible that a new VR & connector kit will get you back up & running.

Might be worth just double-checking that the new battery is actually good & that the terminals are tight first though.

 

[user_deleted]

walnuts: what go said above plus let me add that yes....the VR is what changes the stators' AC voltage to DC vehicle voltage. get a simple multi-meter or borrow one. start bike and gently rev to 2500rpm or so to allow charging system to "settle". set meter to DC volts. check across battery terminals. they must be tight and clean. you should see something in vicinity of 13.2-14.5 volts DC at 3000rpm. this is for a fully charge battery with no electric gizmos plugged into the bike. if it fluctuates wildly or well below 13.2 in most all cases it is the VR. if replacing it you simply remove it (3 allen head bolts) from front mounting bracket, remove front pulley cover which exposes the bundled plugs, and snip the factory wire ties on lower left motor area. be ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN to run the new harness precisely where the factory did and secure with large wire ties to factory oil cooler line. it must be routed correctly.

 

[user_deleted]

lower left motor area

apologies......lower right motor area

 

[Omiotek]

This is what happened to me but I have a feeling the stator is the issue. After all of my diagnostics the stator showed lack of voltage at the plug terminals and the battery does not have the range of recommended voltage. My battery sits at roughly 12.2 give or take some.

For the future I recommend a mini jump pack to keep in your pack whileriding. I jumped my bike with some jumper cables and it died again right before I got out of the parking lot. Got it home and charged the completely and it runs fine and has enough voltage but a multimeter on the battery shows its under where it should be

 

[go cytocis]

For the future I recommend a mini jump pack to keep in your pack whileriding

Or, just install a volt gauge to give you constant real-time feedback on the health of your charging system.

 

[walnuts]

I checked today and the connectors are nice fancy water tight ones. Not sure if they are the upgraded ones or something aftermarket that was popped in. I'm going to try to pick up a multi meter tomorrow and get the bike jumped so I can check the voltage over the terminals then.

How can I check that it is the rectifier and not the stator causing low voltages if they are low ?

Other possibility is a slow drain somewhere when the bike is off which will be a headache and then some to chase .

 

[user_deleted]

a manual surely helps with your trouble-shooting but do the following:
test complete charging system using instructions i furnished you with as above. this will test the entire charging system.
if you receive low readings then remove front pulley cover and separate the VR to stator #77 plug. with bike running as above test the stator. with same engine speeds i outlined above you want to see approx. 47-52 volts AC coming out of the stator. again......that is AC volts. if ok then in all likelihood it is your VR at fault. replace.
to test static battery drain place your multimeter on DC amps....NOT DC volts....DC amps. and remove negative cable from battery. connect your multimeter in series between the negative cable and negative battery post. on all buell XB models anything above approx. 1/4 amp draw is a parasitic loss that must be located and resolved. here is a great link that will walk you threw the draw test. hope this helps.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdIKNnwEjIs

 

[walnuts]

Thank you so much!

 

[jimijeans]

The 77 change kit is so far cheap so please fix the connector even if there is nothing wrong in the wiring. the new connector KIT is a better option than the old one.
The video is a good one. if your Regulator is mounted up against the front head very close then moving it out will help from frying the next one. Only move the Regulator out NO MORE than 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. This way the Regulator stays cool all the time and Steering ability is not affected. You should be able to slide your fingers behind the regulator and touch the solid gel at the back of Regulator when completed with the extended fix. Purchase 3 one inch long bolts same size as original Thread size..
3/ hollow dowels and just extend it out away from the head.
A good ACE Hardware store will have what is needed. Make sure to use the aluminum hollow dowels to extend. Put the bolts through the Regulator front then slide the dowels over the bolts threads then put the regulator up against the mounting frame. Watch the wiring and route it the same but PUT a piece of Vacuum line on the Bolts end after all is done so the wiring does not rest on top of the bolt threads that is left through the mounting bracket . I have done this to many Buell XB bikes.
I put a dab of RTV sealant on extra threads Black Or Red OR Blue then slide the Short piece of Vacuum Line over the Extended threads, so that tiny piece of vacuum line does not come off. Take your time. Jimi *

 

[walnuts]

Ok, here 'a what I've done. I checked the DC Amps putting my multimeter in-line between the negative cable and the negative battery lug. Sure enough there's a parasitic drain. I just recently had at a shop for maintenance and they'd checked the rectifier and stator, all was A Ok. They did not check for a drain.

Removing the circuits one a time, I determined that the drain went away when I pulled the 30 AMP "battery" circuit fuse. Later, after disconnecting the 77 connector but with the fuse in, the current draw was still there.

To me, this means that the wire between the fuse and the connector has grounded somewhere. Does that sound like a proper diagnosis? I pushed the cable bundle around a bit and the drain current is even bigger now.

Done for the night as I can't really reach anything in there.

 

[jimijeans]

Hey there, if your wire was grounded or rubbed a metal area the fuse most times will blow not always.. Whatever the Fuse is make it the same ALWAYS. There are manuals usually at the top of the page for downloading if needed.
it does pay to measure the drain in a lot of areas on enclosed bikes like the buells. the heat issues are always a factor when bikes like this are invented. Go through your bike wiring you are on the right track. if the drain is in the areas you described then you may need to use the same color wire if possible and the size must be the same also., Completely replace the wire.to the source if needed. use some Friction tape wrap to protect the wire once completed with your work.Usually you can find the Friction Tape at Hardware Stores Like Home Depot Electrical Dept., and such.
Please DO NOT use Vinyl Tape. .After use of That then An External conduct {the black plastic} will work for couple of years.
it is a pain staking process. I have done it more than i will like to remember on many makes of bikes. Motorcycles are always a labor of Desire . A Battery Tender is always a good investment when you own old cars and Trucks. Also Motorcycles and Boats Never use a Car Battery to Jump Start a Small Battery on most Motorcycles. it can smoke the Wiring or it will just get hot and later on cause many problems, especially if the vehicle you are getting the jump from is running at the time you are getting the assistance.Make sure to also check the Relay as well that part can stick. Make sure to Mark the Relay. Take your time. Jimi*