the bike is new to me and im slowly checking things out. i know there is an inspection cover to look into the primary but when you remove it ya cant see jack. i know there should only be a quart in there and from what ive researched you cant see the oil and there is no fill line. im probably going to drain and fill just to be sure but i would like to know if there is a way to actually check it. the closest ive come to a correct way is to remove the serby cover on the primary and see if the clutch is half way submerged.
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checking primary oil
- Thread starter evilokc
- Start date
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More experienced will chime in. Best bet is to drain it, and fill. From what I've heard 28-30oz. Some use formula+ some use 20w-50 vtwin oil.
https://youtu.be/PhLcUzvadHo
https://youtu.be/PhLcUzvadHo
34nineteen
Well-known member
The fluid has to be enough of a lubricant to keep the trans gears well oiled, but not enough to have clutch slippage issues.
Formula+ us $8.50/qt and available at and HD dealer. It is the factory fill and every bike produced by the factory has/had a warranty that backed it up. So, it works well, is reasonably priced, and relatively easy to find.
Are there better lubricants? Probably. Some swear by Lucas, AMSOIL, or others. You’re on your own and if something goes awry, it’s all on you. Maybe it works better, maybe it doesn’t. But if you’re running a stock-ish setup Formula+ is the best baseline fluid to start with.
Read the manual and it shows an illustration of fluid level. In my experience, that level is achieved with a little less than a full quart. On a Sportster or tuber, it’s closer to the full quart. If you overfill, it can make the trans shift rougher than it can. However don’t expect a 2003 Buell to shift as nice as a 2003 Honda. Not even close.
Formula+ us $8.50/qt and available at and HD dealer. It is the factory fill and every bike produced by the factory has/had a warranty that backed it up. So, it works well, is reasonably priced, and relatively easy to find.
Are there better lubricants? Probably. Some swear by Lucas, AMSOIL, or others. You’re on your own and if something goes awry, it’s all on you. Maybe it works better, maybe it doesn’t. But if you’re running a stock-ish setup Formula+ is the best baseline fluid to start with.
Read the manual and it shows an illustration of fluid level. In my experience, that level is achieved with a little less than a full quart. On a Sportster or tuber, it’s closer to the full quart. If you overfill, it can make the trans shift rougher than it can. However don’t expect a 2003 Buell to shift as nice as a 2003 Honda. Not even close.
kz6fittycent
Well-known member
I'd be one to say Lucas synthetic. Excellent oil, period. Amsoil is awesome, so are the others. Basically, pick one that meets your demands and the engine's - read the manual on the ratings. Frankly, modern synthetics are going to meet those standards so you'd be happy with about any brand. I'm sure someone will disagree but I don't care. 
34nineteen
Well-known member
However, some aftermarket clutch manufacturers such as Energy One and others explicitly call out NOT to use a synthetic.
This is the balance you have to deal with... or yeah, I’d just recommend a top shelf synthetic such as amsoil.
Cooter tried that once. He can tell you how that worked out. :black_eyed::love_heart:
This is the balance you have to deal with... or yeah, I’d just recommend a top shelf synthetic such as amsoil.
Cooter tried that once. He can tell you how that worked out. :black_eyed::love_heart:
Cooter
Well-known member
I found using the wrong fluid (20W-50) on a wet clutch made it grabby and hard to manage slipping off a stop light. Once I put Formula+ in there the problem cleared up.
The current clutch recommended ATF so thats what I used. No need to outthink the people that designed it.
The current clutch recommended ATF so thats what I used. No need to outthink the people that designed it.
34nineteen
Well-known member
You only need one quart of formula + or whatever you choose.
On my last XB i ran type f atf in it and it seemed to run fine.
I have nothing against amsoil whatsoever and think that it’s a fine product. However for me, formula+ is priced right, easy to get (the harley dealer is right down the road) and works great for this application.
There were some issues years back with stators being damaged due to people running hypoid gear oil in their primary. But I haven’t hear anything about that in years either.
On my last XB i ran type f atf in it and it seemed to run fine.
I have nothing against amsoil whatsoever and think that it’s a fine product. However for me, formula+ is priced right, easy to get (the harley dealer is right down the road) and works great for this application.
There were some issues years back with stators being damaged due to people running hypoid gear oil in their primary. But I haven’t hear anything about that in years either.
Cooter
Well-known member
Ya, I forgot to address the level. While the bike is on the side stand(*), pull off the three bolt plate on the primary cover and fill with proper fluid (about a quart) until the level is just under the hole. The level isn't actually critical in any way, get close.
RTFM:
Buellmods.com
Edit: *straight up and level
RTFM:
Buellmods.com
Edit: *straight up and level
Last edited:
chief_of_smoke
Well-known member
Did this thread just turn into a which oil is the best thread again? Smh
34nineteen
Well-known member
Ugh yeah.
The moral here is: If you have to ask, stick to formula +. If you know better, then why are you asking a bunch of strangers on a forum?
The moral here is: If you have to ask, stick to formula +. If you know better, then why are you asking a bunch of strangers on a forum?
Cooter
Well-known member
Good catch oh9Bolt. I wrote 'on the side stand' thinking engine oil, my mistake.
Page 1-27 and 1-28 in the manual where the good way to check the level is written step by step and more dependable (obviously) than asking strangers on the internet. Like me. Who made a mistake...
Thankfully, anyone with a maintenance question about levels or fluids can find THE MANUAL, FOR FREE at: Buellmods.com
Page 1-27 and 1-28 in the manual where the good way to check the level is written step by step and more dependable (obviously) than asking strangers on the internet. Like me. Who made a mistake...
Thankfully, anyone with a maintenance question about levels or fluids can find THE MANUAL, FOR FREE at: Buellmods.com
cvc
Well-known member
Watch it on using the type F it's mineral oil based and even old fords leak trans fluid if not run and heat cycled regularly. I don't know but it could be harder on the stator as Ford switched to Mercon (Dexron in GM) when electronics entered the transmission.
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34nineteen
Well-known member
Then you should be telling the clutch companies about your epiphany, not me.
https://www.energyoneclutches.com/clutchinfo/BTX11.pdf
https://www.energyoneclutches.com/clutchinfo/BTX11.pdf
kz6fittycent
Well-known member
Smart move, IMO. It never hurts to have fresh oil in there.
Cooter
Well-known member
Yup. We have that Energy One clutch in Bubbles SCG and run Type F (as recommended by them) with no issues:eagerness:
34nineteen
Well-known member
In their energy one clutch installation video, hammer Dan uses formula +.
Dan at NRHS preferred Ford type f. I ran type f to help clean the insides of the primary/transmission to help flush any debris/gunk floating around by the virtue of the high detergent quality of the atf. Worked fine.
Dan at NRHS preferred Ford type f. I ran type f to help clean the insides of the primary/transmission to help flush any debris/gunk floating around by the virtue of the high detergent quality of the atf. Worked fine.
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