I have had my 2008 xb12r on the road the last couple days. I just bought the bike this winter so I am new to buells, but I need to adjust the clutch and had a few questions. I have read some places that a new gasket needs to be installed every time the clutch inspection cover is removed, and other places have no mention of a gasket. I havent even found where to get a new gasket for that so I need some advice from people who know more about the topic. Thanks for your help!
Clutch adjustment
- Thread starter NYhokie
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williegoat
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I have had the cover on and off half a dozen times, always re-used the gasket and have not had a leak yet.
ASB has the gaskets: http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-prodshow/17101.html
ASB has the gaskets: http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-prodshow/17101.html
A mod on this forum has made a video how-to for this.
clutch adjustment.
clutch adjustment.
A few gaskets in case of never hurts.Most times you can get by For a small amount of time on them.American Sport Bike /Harley Davidson/And I'm sure others can get the gaskets when needed.As far as the Clutch(primary)adjustment,Take the Small spring and lock plate[hex shape]off. Then you just take a flat screwdriver & 1st turn the adjuster screw counterclockwise till it just lightly bottoms(gently stops).NOW turn the same screw Clockwise 1/2 turn.You Can Start at (1/4 turn)[Suggested] cause sometimes the Hex doesn't line up but I don't know the wear on your clutch.Now if the Hex shaped lockplate won't line up with the recess in the outer Ramp, Slowly rotate the adjusting screw clockwise till it lines up.pop it back in.AFTER that is done and screws & plate are installed,Make SURE to [before starting the bike]PULL THE clutch Lever at least 3 times to set the Ramp assembly.Make sure to have [AT the LEVER]1/16 inch of freeplay. Easy on the bike the first 20 miles for best performance.~Jimi
First Make and Model plus Year helps when you first post a problem this way the members can help. Explain exactly SAY Like is the Clutch Lever To hard to pull? OR best describe what the bike is OR not doing. If the Bike is a Buell check the post above for adjustments.
The Manuals at the Top of the Page for a Visual will help also. Daves Do IT Yourself (DTY videos all in one Thread), here on the Forum will also help you keep riding. Remember One thing at a time. Take your time learning your Bike. Welcome to the Forum. Ride Safe. *Jimi [cool]
The Manuals at the Top of the Page for a Visual will help also. Daves Do IT Yourself (DTY videos all in one Thread), here on the Forum will also help you keep riding. Remember One thing at a time. Take your time learning your Bike. Welcome to the Forum. Ride Safe. *Jimi [cool]
highfructosecornsyrp
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ok so I still cannot get my bike performing the way it needs to with this information.
The video is nice, but, to a newb, its meaningless. I don't know what freeplay is.
My clutch slips like crazy. If I turn the adjustment screw counterclockwise, it still slips. How tight should the screw be? If I tighten it all the way, the rear wheel spins regardless of me pulling the clutch handle.
Oddly enough, the bike will also roll forward even though it is in gear without using the clutch handle (impossible to push start then).
If I turn the screw clockwise, the bike will no longer roll forward and backwards (i.e. it should be able to be push started if necessary). BUT the clutch slips worse than ever if I do this.
Does anyone have a link to a comprehensive how to for this? I will gladly rip this bike to shreds to get to the clutch and use a micrometer to make sure it does not need to be replaced.
However I have never done this and I don't even, honestly, know what a clutch looks like.
I havent ridden the bike in months due to the clutch slipping and multiple multiple multiple clutch adjustments.
Please help.
The video is nice, but, to a newb, its meaningless. I don't know what freeplay is.
My clutch slips like crazy. If I turn the adjustment screw counterclockwise, it still slips. How tight should the screw be? If I tighten it all the way, the rear wheel spins regardless of me pulling the clutch handle.
Oddly enough, the bike will also roll forward even though it is in gear without using the clutch handle (impossible to push start then).
If I turn the screw clockwise, the bike will no longer roll forward and backwards (i.e. it should be able to be push started if necessary). BUT the clutch slips worse than ever if I do this.
Does anyone have a link to a comprehensive how to for this? I will gladly rip this bike to shreds to get to the clutch and use a micrometer to make sure it does not need to be replaced.
However I have never done this and I don't even, honestly, know what a clutch looks like.
I havent ridden the bike in months due to the clutch slipping and multiple multiple multiple clutch adjustments.
Please help.
highfructosecornsyrp
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- Sep 12, 2012
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I have the shop manual pdf. It has a lot of information, but is not written for someone that is learning, but for someone that already knows.
The first time I adjusted my clutch after changing the stator I had lot of trouble until I followed ALL the steps in the service manual EXACTLY. When tightening that screw (#3 on Figure 1-28) don't tighten it all the way until you can't turn it anymore - that's WAY to tight , just until it gets harder to turn (see step four where its says "lightly bottoms").
highfructosecornsyrp
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So turn the adjusting screw until it "lightly bottoms.". Does this mean turn it until any resistance is felt? Then twist a quarter turn clockwise? I did that and it did not improve my situation. I've actually done that at least three times hoping I missed something.
Once that is complete and the plate is back on, how tight do I turn the cable adjuster?
Is there a means of testing the clutch while it is still on the stand or do I have to drop the bike down to the ground and drive it down the highway (read: put all my gear on and get the bike hot before finding out it is incorrectly adjusted, then burning myself while doing the procedure over again)
If I do this adjustment over and over and get the same poor results, is the next step to remove the clutch and measure the plate(s)?
If so does anyone know where simple straightforward instructions can be found?
Once that is complete and the plate is back on, how tight do I turn the cable adjuster?
Is there a means of testing the clutch while it is still on the stand or do I have to drop the bike down to the ground and drive it down the highway (read: put all my gear on and get the bike hot before finding out it is incorrectly adjusted, then burning myself while doing the procedure over again)
If I do this adjustment over and over and get the same poor results, is the next step to remove the clutch and measure the plate(s)?
If so does anyone know where simple straightforward instructions can be found?
highfructosecornsyrp
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That's the video I used for my adjustment, painstakingly pausing and rewatching to make sure I did everything precisely the same.
I even counted the turns he made while tightening the cable adjuster. It didn't work.
My question would be, since I suppose the adjustment screw was lightly bottomed and then backed off a quarter to a half turn, then I must have tightened the cable adjuster too much after...even though I counted the amount of times the guy in te video turned the adjuster.
How tight should the cable adjuster be?
If I make sure I do all this and STILL the clutch slips, is my next step to remove the clutch assembly and measure the thickness of the plates?
I even counted the turns he made while tightening the cable adjuster. It didn't work.
My question would be, since I suppose the adjustment screw was lightly bottomed and then backed off a quarter to a half turn, then I must have tightened the cable adjuster too much after...even though I counted the amount of times the guy in te video turned the adjuster.
How tight should the cable adjuster be?
If I make sure I do all this and STILL the clutch slips, is my next step to remove the clutch assembly and measure the thickness of the plates?
HFCS, when did your bike start doing this? All of a sudden? Did it follow an oil change? Need some history if you have it.
Since you have the service manual, take a look at the section titled "Clutch Slips".
In addition to the things recommended therein, I would be curious if anyone has used "additives" in your transmission oil, or even if the correct fluid is there? For example, oils for an auto with dry clutches are different than what most motorcycles need, so that's something to rule out.
Since you have the service manual, take a look at the section titled "Clutch Slips".
In addition to the things recommended therein, I would be curious if anyone has used "additives" in your transmission oil, or even if the correct fluid is there? For example, oils for an auto with dry clutches are different than what most motorcycles need, so that's something to rule out.
highfructosecornsyrp
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it has a small amount of synthetic and normal motor oil in it-I found the bike to be dangerously low and had to put oil I had laying around in it to get to the autoparts store. Most is synthetic vtwin oil, can't remember the type, but it was one of the ones that I found recommended on buell sites. I ordered it on ebay.
The slipping came on so slowly that I am not sure when it started.
The bike has 19000 miles on it and I've had it almost 3 years, bought it new.
I can change the oil out tomorrow.
My question is still, though, how tight should i turn the cable adjuster after loosening it?
On a side note, is some oil so slippery that it will not let a clutch grab while other oil is not slippery and will allow a clutch to grab?
Since it has a bit of normal car motor oil (synthetic and non synthetic) perhaps that is the issue. Ill find out tonite or tomorrow.
The slipping came on so slowly that I am not sure when it started.
The bike has 19000 miles on it and I've had it almost 3 years, bought it new.
I can change the oil out tomorrow.
My question is still, though, how tight should i turn the cable adjuster after loosening it?
On a side note, is some oil so slippery that it will not let a clutch grab while other oil is not slippery and will allow a clutch to grab?
Since it has a bit of normal car motor oil (synthetic and non synthetic) perhaps that is the issue. Ill find out tonite or tomorrow.
I had the same issue the first time I tried to adjust mine. After many trial and errors, I finally got it. I think my biggest mistake was not realizing how little you have to turn the adjustment screw. After I followed that youtube video to loosen it, I barely turned the screw and then went and rode it. Made a tiny adjustment, and rode it, so forth and so on. It actually took me two different sittings because I got frustrated the first time. It's been awhile since I adjusted mine so I can't remember if he was saying make quarter turns, but I was barely making turns so I didn't go too far.
I know its a pain in the ass, but each time you do it, you get a better feel from the clutch and it'll be easier the next time. Just stay with it. If it gets too frustrating, walk away, drink a beer and come back.
You've had the bike 3 years and this is the first time you've done a cable adjustment? Thats either some good luck or it may have been loose to begin with. I usually adjust it each time I do an oil change as I already have it open.
Think of the cable adjuster and ramp adjustment (under the cover) as two ways to lengthen or shorten the clutch cable. Tightening the adjuster mainly affects the freeplay (amount of movment) at the handle. The adjustment screw at the ramp controls the freeplay at the ramp. You tighten the adjuster until you achieve the appropriate amount at the handle (like in the video Joel9 posted). I use a nickel to gauge my freeplay as its about the width the manual recommends. When they refer to "lightly seats", they mean when you start to feel a bit of resistance of it being tightened. After feeling that I usually go a half a turn, then back it off the 1/4th turn. Its not a science and exact, just go by feel.
Too much freeplay (too loose at the adjuster) will cause the clutch not to engage (preventing you from putting it in neutral) which can become problematic when trying to stop at a light
Side note: Make sure you put the spring back in properly. It should be pointing out like the videos. The first time I did my adjustment the spring fell out before I could see how it was, ended up putting it in backwards and the vibrations caused the adjustment to back out = increased freeplay and eventually made it to where I couldn't stop the bike as it would die (being that pulling in the clutch wouldn't take up enough slack to move the ramp)
*edit* clarified some parts
Think of the cable adjuster and ramp adjustment (under the cover) as two ways to lengthen or shorten the clutch cable. Tightening the adjuster mainly affects the freeplay (amount of movment) at the handle. The adjustment screw at the ramp controls the freeplay at the ramp. You tighten the adjuster until you achieve the appropriate amount at the handle (like in the video Joel9 posted). I use a nickel to gauge my freeplay as its about the width the manual recommends. When they refer to "lightly seats", they mean when you start to feel a bit of resistance of it being tightened. After feeling that I usually go a half a turn, then back it off the 1/4th turn. Its not a science and exact, just go by feel.
Too much freeplay (too loose at the adjuster) will cause the clutch not to engage (preventing you from putting it in neutral) which can become problematic when trying to stop at a light
Side note: Make sure you put the spring back in properly. It should be pointing out like the videos. The first time I did my adjustment the spring fell out before I could see how it was, ended up putting it in backwards and the vibrations caused the adjustment to back out = increased freeplay and eventually made it to where I couldn't stop the bike as it would die (being that pulling in the clutch wouldn't take up enough slack to move the ramp)
*edit* clarified some parts
Unfortunately this isn't definitive enough to help
I was just pointing out that, if the wrong type of oil or additives were put in the transmission, it could cause the slippage you mentioned. But unless you're positive, let's make sure it's adjusted properly first.You turn it exactly the amount needed to get between 1/16 and 1/8" free play between the cable ferrule and bracket. Examine that figure 1-29 carefully.
Just reply back when you've adjusted it and ridden again. If it still slips, is adjusted properly, and the correct oil was used, then the clutch plates may be glazed.
highfructosecornsyrp
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The motorcycle gods don't want me riding.
I removed the oil plug and rings of metal came with it. Apparently I cross threaded it last time I changed the oil. I suppose I'll be rethreading it, in addition to changing the oil and giving the clutch one more adjustment tomorrow.
I removed the oil plug and rings of metal came with it. Apparently I cross threaded it last time I changed the oil. I suppose I'll be rethreading it, in addition to changing the oil and giving the clutch one more adjustment tomorrow.
