Clutch dragging

[GSXdoubleR88ciNINJA]

My friends '03 XB9R 's clutch drags a good bit. It makes neutral pretty hard to find. The clutch is adjusted properly, new fluid proper level. Old fluid was proper level, but when he drained it said it was metallic, I guess silver'ish...

What should we know ahead of time if we take the primary cover off to remove the clutch and inspect it? Any tools other than a clutch spring compression tool? What size nut is that holding the clutch basket in there?

 

[stopie20]

Might save your self some time... I think all the buells have this issue when the clutch is properly adjusted, especially when cold, but this problem could be amplified by the type of oil you use in the primary. Or if you are even just a little off on your adjustment it could make nuetral hard to find.

Is it any better when the bike is hot?
What type of oil is he running, and how many miles were on the oil with the material in it?

 

[GSXdoubleR88ciNINJA]

Bike hot or cold same thing. The Motul full syn in the primary had unknown miles. Now it's Mobil1 full syn like I use in my bike.

I've run my bike hard for the last 10k miles for a total of 19k on the original clutch/motor. His only has 6k and just doesn't shift in neutral easily like mine. On the rear stand, pull the clutch, shift to first, his bike "clunks" in to gear and immediately spins the tire with a good bit of force. Off the stands you feel the bike want to start pulling.

 

[themachineking]

I have a an 03 XB9R and neutral can be a bitch to find sometimes also. It sounds like its gona break when i shift. I have a friend that has a 05 XB12R and its the same. Im told thats just how they are. Ive also heard thet royal purple helps all of that. I havent tried it in mine yet but im going to as soon as i find some. If you find a fix let me know.

 

[bajabomber87]

They are just loud clunky transmissions.

The clutch obviously isnt adjusted right. Even if you have it in spec per the FSM, its never going to be the same after the cable gets thousands of miles on it. My clutch is tits but its sure as hell not in the spec listed, seriously takes over an hour of just going back and forth adjusting the clutch cable in front of the engine and the adjustment inside the clutch inspection cover to get it just right.
Can you hear the primary chain sliding across the tensioner inside the case while is idling?

 

[bronjeremy]

mine did the same... lurched forward when i started it in gear and hard to find nuetrel... paid a friend who went to schoool for harley 20 bucks and he adjusted it!!! havent had a problem sense!

 

[bronjeremy]

and you ABSOLUTLY HAVE TO USE THE HARLEY CLUTCH OIL!!!!!

 

[konarider94]

mine doesnt drag too bad but if its cold sometimes it really hard to get it to shift out of 1st before i start it. once it finally does, it goes into 2nd and i have to go down for neutral. i can almost never hit neutral on the up when its cold. also if i try to push it with the clutch lever pulled while its in gear and cold its very difficult. this is the biggest thing i dont like about this bike. when everything warms up it seems to be better.

and from what im hearing it sounds normal?

 

[stopie20]

Ok, it sounds to me like the adjustment procedure needs to be revisited...
the oil you are using should work fine.
there is also an adjustment on the shifter mechanisim, but I'm not very familiar with it.

 

[bajabomber87]

Yeah, well there are two available at Harley but this is the best one http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-prodshow/17135.html

 

[bajabomber87]

there is also an adjustment on the shifter mechanisim, but I'm not very familiar with it.

That's more for how far up or down you want your shifter arm.

 

[GSXdoubleR88ciNINJA]

Clutch is adjusted properly. It's not brain surgery.
No it DOESN'T have to be Harley lube... shesh!

So, nobody responded yet that has actually had their primary cover off...

 

[konarider94]

did you read the service manual? if not click on "buell service manuals" at the very top. there happens to be one for the 03 xb9r. its pretty in depth. section 6 would be the one your interested in. it does not give the size of the nut but it looks like the only special tool you will need is the clutch compressor. you will also need a micrometer to measure the plates if you plan on reusing them. a dial caliper will do but micrometers are better.

 

[07Bolt]

heres a sporty with the clutch pack/engine rotor/sprocket removed. same as buell really.
-remember clutch pack nut is left-hand thread.
-Turn clockwise to loosen.
-engine sprocket is right-hand thread.
-the 07s came with pre-applied loc-tite, the 03s u might have to re-apply the loc-tite to the clutch nut
-use the reccomended bolt pattern remove/install. it helps with alignment & leakage problems

 

[bajabomber87]

Clutch is adjusted properly. It's not brain surgery.
No it DOESN'T have to be Harley lube... shesh!

So, nobody responded yet that has actually had their primary cover off...

Actually it's not since your clutch engages when its not supposed to.
The synthetic actually does make is slip more so the Harley dyno oil is preferred fyi.
The nut is 1 1/4'' left hand thread. You'll need to use an impact to get it off.
The FSM is 75 ft lbs if I remember correctly at least on my 08 with the conical washer to preload the nut. Check with your dealer, they can tell you out of their books.
You dont need a special compressor tool, I used 3 vise grip open jaw clamps to compress my spring. Works fine especially on the stock springs which are pretty soft.

 

[FEN13]

Check the clutch If you have the tool to compress the spring you dont have to remove the basket. Excessive wear can cause similar problems. Formula+ works best but what you are using should be fine.

 

[stopie20]

I have actually, replaced my entire clutch, and removed the basket, I didnt go into that detail , because I dont think your problem is that deep, but if you want you can tear into it. Just tell ya though it is a bit of a pain in the ass, not complicated just akward as **** and I have the clutch spring tool.

I just keep going through the whole assembly in my mind and I really dont come up with anything that would cause your clutch to drag if it was worn... clutches have a pretty basic function and usually slip instead of drag.

Where is your "friction zone" adjusted to.just wondering

 

[stopie20]

The nut is 1 1/4'' left hand thread. You'll need to use an impact to get it off.

Impact wrenches make engine and tranny parts sad..[sad]

The synthetic actually does make is slip more so the Harley dyno oil is preferred fyi.

Synthetic oil can be run at a lighter weight and provide superior pretection therefore there is less slippage, this is provided you are using a oil that is designed to be used in clutches and does not have the friction modifiers that are used in motor oil... as for "genuine Harley" oil, plugs, filters,...[down]

 

[GSXdoubleR88ciNINJA]

Well we didn't tear it open yet. It's acting better with the new Mobil1 fluid. Maybe it will clear up after it's run some more and changed again.
Yes clutches usually slip. Please... there is 3 other Firebolts right here, all adjusted properly. It's just this 4th one new to the heard. It needs to be broken.

TY [up]

 

[bajabomber87]

Impact wrenches make engine and tranny parts sad..

I'm talking a few ft lbs, 20 will do it unless you have a fixture to hold the clutch basket from spinning or jam a block of wood in between the sprockets. Nothing that is going to hurt it considering your engine puts out 80+ft lbs into the tranny.