Clutch Release Bearing

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Pushr0d

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Mar 25, 2019
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This is a new thread that captures the issue I had with the clutch in my '08 Ulysses. I figure the new thread title will help with searches.

The clutch lever was not adjusting properly, and the clutch was 'draggy', and then started making a 'chattering' noise. I pulled the primary cover, expecting carnage, but found nothing amiss!

The next day, I took the release plate assembly (#12) out for a look. One circlip/retaining ring has to be removed.

Note: While the clutch release lever can, the plate cannot be removed through the inspection hole in the primary.

While the plate looked fine, the bearing (P/N A8885) is shot. Very rumbly, and at least 1/16 in. of play. It doesn't look like a big deal to replace the bearing in the plate.

I closely inspected the clutch basket - knowing it is supported by a single needle bearing, I believe the 'wiggle' i have is probably normal. And, I believe the messed-up release plate assembly/bearing is almost certainly the cause of the clutch weirdness and noise.

I'm wondering where the bearing gets its lubrication. It's kinda stuffed into a cave.

Neither the local HD dealer nor any independent shops had the 8885 bearing in stock. The Dealership said they normally did have them. The part is used in most (if not all) Big Twins back to the turn of the century (funny to put it like that - I'm talking 2000) and several Sportsters.

Anyhow, while looking for the part online, I happened on several posts on HD-related sites, and a couple of videos that discuss the (relatively) high failure rate of that bearing, and the 'upgrade' to a F A G 7200-B-XL-TVP 'angular contact ball bearing'.

Intrigued, since it looks to be a much better application than the stock ball bearing, I've ordered one.

While waiting for the new bearing. I removed the old one. I don't think a NTN-branded bearing is the original #A8885, but photo below is for reference.

The second photo shows a little bit more 'play' in a ball bearing than is normal. I'm thinking I had only a couple more clutch lever pulls before I snatched the inner race out of the bearing. That would have fragged the primary with bearing guts.

As it was, the bearing and its 'cave' in the clutch basket were well coated with what looked like anti-seize compound - except it was bearing roller powder. Some can still be seen inside the outer race.

This is my opinion - I don't think a ball bearing should have been used - don't know why they (HD and Buell) did.

For size: 30MM O.D., 10MM I.D., 9MM width.

After installing the new bearing - carefully, as it is directional - and putting the primary back together, all is normal!
Resized_20250201_093920_1738590843928.jpeg
Resized_20250201_093935_1738590843540.jpeg
 
This is great info Steve and top quality work on your part. Thanks very much for posting all this for future reference.
 
This is a new thread that captures the issue I had with the clutch in my '08 Ulysses. I figure the new thread title will help with searches.

The clutch lever was not adjusting properly, and the clutch was 'draggy', and then started making a 'chattering' noise. I pulled the primary cover, expecting carnage, but found nothing amiss!

The next day, I took the release plate assembly (#12) out for a look. One circlip/retaining ring has to be removed.

Note: While the clutch release lever can, the plate cannot be removed through the inspection hole in the primary.

While the plate looked fine, the bearing (P/N A8885) is shot. Very rumbly, and at least 1/16 in. of play. It doesn't look like a big deal to replace the bearing in the plate.

I closely inspected the clutch basket - knowing it is supported by a single needle bearing, I believe the 'wiggle' i have is probably normal. And, I believe the messed-up release plate assembly/bearing is almost certainly the cause of the clutch weirdness and noise.

I'm wondering where the bearing gets its lubrication. It's kinda stuffed into a cave.

Neither the local HD dealer nor any independent shops had the 8885 bearing in stock. The Dealership said they normally did have them. The part is used in most (if not all) Big Twins back to the turn of the century (funny to put it like that - I'm talking 2000) and several Sportsters.

Anyhow, while looking for the part online, I happened on several posts on HD-related sites, and a couple of videos that discuss the (relatively) high failure rate of that bearing, and the 'upgrade' to a F A G 7200-B-XL-TVP 'angular contact ball bearing'.

Intrigued, since it looks to be a much better application than the stock ball bearing, I've ordered one.

While waiting for the new bearing. I removed the old one. I don't think a NTN-branded bearing is the original #A8885, but photo below is for reference.

The second photo shows a little bit more 'play' in a ball bearing than is normal. I'm thinking I had only a couple more clutch lever pulls before I snatched the inner race out of the bearing. That would have fragged the primary with bearing guts.

As it was, the bearing and its 'cave' in the clutch basket were well coated with what looked like anti-seize compound - except it was bearing roller powder. Some can still be seen inside the outer race.

This is my opinion - I don't think a ball bearing should have been used - don't know why they (HD and Buell) did.

For size: 30MM O.D., 10MM I.D., 9MM width.

After installing the new bearing - carefully, as it is directional - and putting the primary back together, all is normal!View attachment 19511View attachment 19512
Hi Pushrod, John here from Sydney, Australia down under. I’ve been a follower for a few years and gleaned a lot of useful effective information from the wiser experienced members. Totally agree, excellent job which has got me considering replacing this bearing in my 2010 XB12R after I studied the cross section diagram of the *** 7200-B-XL-TVP. The cross section reveals the off set relationship of the inner to the outer ball bearing cage as compared with a standard ball bearing cage where they are both, generally in the same line of axis. For this application of the pulling out action of the Adjusting screw with its associated torsional force whereby the bearing becomes unevenly loaded due to the pressure plate load makes sense, given the torsional force acting on the bearing cage when the clutch is pulled in. Can you please confirm if my deduction for installation is correct, that the smaller radius bearing cage faces outwards to maximise the clutch pulled in torsional pressure plate load and the larger diameter bearing cage faces inwards to the motor / transmission because it has extremely minimal torsional loading ? Your confirmation will be appreciated.
 
Hi Pushrod, John here from Sydney, Australia down under. I’ve been a follower for a few years and gleaned a lot of useful effective information from the wiser experienced members. Totally agree, excellent job which has got me considering replacing this bearing in my 2010 XB12R after I studied the cross section diagram of the *** 7200-B-XL-TVP. The cross section reveals the off set relationship of the inner to the outer ball bearing cage as compared with a standard ball bearing cage where they are both, generally in the same line of axis. For this application of the pulling out action of the Adjusting screw with its associated torsional force whereby the bearing becomes unevenly loaded due to the pressure plate load makes sense, given the torsional force acting on the bearing cage when the clutch is pulled in. Can you please confirm if my deduction for installation is correct, that the smaller radius bearing cage faces outwards to maximise the clutch pulled in torsional pressure plate load and the larger diameter bearing cage faces inwards to the motor / transmission because it has extremely minimal torsional loading ? Your confirmation will be appreciated.
Hi Pushrod, After typing in this F A G bearing specification for Harley Davidson the XL Forum, June 2010 covers the technical specifications for the 7200-B-XL-TVP, where TVP stands for a resin base plastic inner ball race which has a 120 + degree C rating offering a low mass and better dampening, compared with a 7200-B-JP, JP being steel with a 120 to 200 degree C rating. So where am I coming from ? From a position of preventative maintenance with a maximum engineered fit for purpose. Maybe I’m overthinking it, however the off-set torsional loading while working in an environment which could, (and hopefully not) rise in temperature beyond 120 degrees C, to quote a thread in this forum, “for peace of mind” the JP steel inner race will be the ball bearing with the off-set inner race that I’m contemplating to install, unless I can be convinced otherwise ?
 
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