So just drian the swingarm then? I wasnt talking about changing the primary oil. But i have read/heard that you need to drain the little allen bolt on the right side of the bike to get all the pil out. Just trying to figure out if that holds any truth.
let me walk you thru this before you start removing unnecessary fittings, strip out threads, cause leaks that had previously not existed. NOTE: all info from memory...several IMO's offered up.....having owned over 20 buells this is what works for me. it may NOT work for you.
1-do what carlos said and as time permits go to his link and download service manual for your year and model.
2-there are only TWO drain plugs: swingarm plug and plug bottom slightly aft of center on primary drive cover. they interchange as do the O-ring on each. do NOT remove any other plug or fastener under the driveline. clean each magnet thoroughly, do not use thread locker or sealant, replace O-ring IF it appears flattened or nicked. see link below i have provided. TEN CENTS each.
3-2007 and up toyota yaris/scion 1.5L vehicles take precisely same filter as all XB model buells. i avoid house-brand discount mart filters like the plague. buy quality, price shop, pick up a few, change it at every oil change. FILL THE FILTER with oil prior to installing same.
4-DO NOT rely on listed torque settings in the service manual for drain plugs. some of those printings showed false torque values resulting in stripped threads. rule of thumb is either have a pro show you what "sufficiently snug" is or use new updated revised torque values. this is not rocket science. using a standard 5/8th inch box or swivel head wrench with 8 inch handle just snug up the plugs till taut. you can feel it when sufficiently taut.
5-swingarm holds 2.5 US quarts of oil with full warm drain of 20 minutes minimum.....primary holds 1 US quart. the oil inside the primary cover also lubricates the transmission.
6-if consistently riding in temps of 50 degrees F or higher use 20-50 in both swingarm and primary. any quality conventional or synthetic oil works nicely in the swingarm. XB motors reasonably gentle on oil. i prefer castrol, rotella or any cycle specific 20-50 that happens to be on sale. they're all good. if subjecting motor to constant red-line shifts and extraordinarily high city style stop and go temps then consider a full true synthetic. 3000 mile oil change pretty much rule of thumb with these bikes OR at END of riding season regardless of accrued mileage.
7-amsoil motorcycle 20-50 seems to work best in the primary and i've tried them all. i change it every other time i change the motor oil. you can refill the primary thru either the top window or derby cover window. makes no difference.
8-safety wired filters and plugs for the race-track crowd and waste of time for street ridden bike. i've changed oils and filters at least 500 times now on these XB's and if all above items installed correctly they will NOT come loose or leak.
9-oil additives for motor and primary complete waste of money. XB's have a "wet-clutch" style system. contrary to popular opinion the primary fluid does NOT lubricate the clutch pack...it only "mists" the clutch plate ears to assist with engagement/disengagement of the clutch pack. it also cools the clutch pack. that is it. whatever primary fluid you choose to use it MUST be JASO MA rated and specifically designed to be "wet-clutch" compatible.
use this link.....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/180851948152?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
