cooling fan

[WickedGnarly]

hey fellas,

Haven't posted much since I joined. There's so much info on this site there hasn't been much of a need too.

However, my fan fried. My xb12r's front cylinder might have quit because some awesome tech cracked the insulation around the spark plug. Anyways .... it was raining I was sitting in traffic and the fan started up and then there was some smoke and the fan doesn't work.

The ecm spy diagnostic nets me some sparking around the fan "area".

Anyways do I need the fan? I also have an xr650l and it is also air/oil cooled. Im thinking of just taking the fan off and saving the weight. Anyone else done this?

Also you guys rock this site is awesome I love my buell. We should get on tapatalk.

 

[christianmb]

You definitely need the fan. Others have contemplated taking it off also, and since the rear cylinder is insulated by the frame and other parts, it tends to heat up and retain its heat much more than the front cylinder. Also, if you are caught in any kind of traffic, you stand the chance of creating serious damage to the rear cylinder because of the heat built up. I would by no means suggest running without the fan.

 

[snrusnak]

If you ever stop moving for more than a couple minutes the bike will overheat without the fan. It barely stays cool enough with the fan. Not a good idea...

 

[sparky300]

With the money you'll save by not replacing the fan you can buy new rings for the rear cylinder this winter.

 

[WickedGnarly]

Lol I cetch your drift ill hop over too asb after I post this thanks!

 

[sparky300]

Don't forget to check Buellparts.net

 

[WickedGnarly]

Thanks Sparky, very nice of you to link the fan directly. I dl'ed the manual on my phone a while ago. Replacing it looks like easy sauce. I could have fried a wire too now that I think about it. I swear this thing was in a flood or something.

Cheers,

 

[Rhino1]

Wicked, Although your fan is probably fires, i would still test it before ordering a new/replacement fan. Very easy to do, and you'll have to get in there anyway.

 

[jimijeans]

Yes the fan is a must on these bikes. Otherwise the Engines Rear Cylinder won't be able to lube and Cool down enough so the Rings and Pistons will eventually fail. The Electronics would also suffer damage due to how tight the Wiring is tucked into the Bike.
Each Model of Bike out on the Market is different in many ways.Honda ,Yamanas,Victory and many cruisers alike have a different Frame and Wider Heads angle so a little more air gets into areas that can't on the Tighter Buells and some other Aircooled Bikes out there.
The Fan on a Buell however also helps cool the Fuell in the frame. The 2/speed Fan motor isn't all that expensive even new, and pretty easy to replace. Buellister parts may have a used one if Buellers want to go that route. American SportBike.com will also be able to get that as well. Ride Safe.*Jimi

 

[levi]

I'm in the same boat here:

My fan powers up on the bench but blows fuses in the bike. I've had to ride the bike for a week with no fan on, and I want to sort this out asap.

Has anyone here "unpressed" the motor from the fan blade? There was a load of oil from a gasket failure that I cleaned. The rocker gaskets have been fixed but I can't clean the inside of the fan hub to get the last bit of grease.

I can't avoid riding the bike so the faster I get this sorted the better. Complicating this is the fact that I don't have the funds for a new fan. I can't seem to find the $30 and $40 used fans that were about last summer.



So the plan right now is to press the fan blade off of the motor and clean it properly. That feels like my only option at the moment.
I'm open to suggestions/assistance from you guys. Especially if you have a spare fan motor laying around.


Thx guys.

 

[jimijeans]

Oh man, hey levi, the fan is a sealed unit. you can try to remove it but the results might be a bad deal if it comes apart at those RPMs after reinstallation.Yeah if you keep on riding the bike the no fan can really burn up the rear cylinder.Start with your plug at the fan connection.
Use a meter OR use a 12/6/volts circuit tester for checking for 12/volts. Only one wire is hot on the fan connector. Possible sender temperature wire also but maybe not so/ start with the Fans area. You might need to check the wiring working your way back to the source to find the area that is gotten a possible short touching a metal area blowing that fuse. Please don't use a larger fuse that it is supposed to have in the Fuse Box.
A fire can start that way. Most likely the positive wire (red) on the fan connector on a stock Wiring harness has the problem . you have already gotten out the Fan so find the wiring and most likely it is close OR at the Fuse box area close by.
The Circuit tester is a great tool of being simple to use and test with. May even need to do a wiggle test of the wiring connectors in that area. Post up if you need more on that. and one of us will do our best to help you.Good Luck.*Jimi

 

[jimijeans]

Levi I forgot to mention that if oil is in the fan and it pulls too much voltage it will sometimes blow the fuse also. You may not have a short at all if it only blows the fuse when the fan is trying to respond to the Temperature Sender unit with too much heat and voltage is high from oil in the fans housing causing too much amps.
I figured you might have cleaned it before you Bench Tested the fan to be safe & might be lucky now it runs etc.. Try to check the Wiring with the Fan Removed.
The wiggle test & the connectors around first with only the Key on not running and if it blows then it may be a short. I myself would rather change the fan than chase down a short on my own Machines. For max voltage just unplug the Headlight!good luck. *Jimi

 

[levi]

Yeah the fan was cleaned as thoroughly as I could before I tested it. There's that space between the inside of the fan blade hub and the motor casing that's got unreachable oil in it still. I think this is providing too much resistance and smoking the ten amp fuse. The behavior(blowing the fuse right when the fan comes on) sort of supports this theory. I'm hoping to degrease the inside of the blade hub and relieve that drag that I suspect.

This brings me back to separating the blade from the motor. I remember a thread where someone had successfully done it, but I can't find it yet.

It makes me sick to be riding it around like this but I really have zero options.
The bike is a 2007 STT if anyone happens to run across a used fan.

Thanks Jimi for your time. I really appreciate it guy.

 

[sparky300]

Did you try a spray can of electrical contact cleaner in that "unreachable" area to remove the oil? You could also try brake parts cleaner or carb cleaner but I don't know what effect they would have on plastic or painted parts of the fan.

 

[Oldgit]

Aye I was thinking of some engine degreaser or something to remove the oil, which should evaporate over a short time.

 

[user_deleted]

with fan removed try any readily available cleaner like S100, cycle clean, any household general degreasing spray cleaner that is water soluable also works. spray the fan well, let it soak for a minute or 2 and spray off with hose. you won't hurt the fan as it gets wet as hell when you're riding in rain. that is why they are sealed.

 

[levi]

Yeah I hope that degreasing with the fan blade still attached works. I'll be looking for a fairly agressive solvent today at the store.

Here's to hoping this works.


Thanks for the words of advise guys.


Levi

 

[Oldgit]

As always, please update us with the results. Its good to keep a record for future searches

 

[sparky300]

Electrical contact cleaners are plastic safe and will remove grease and oil from impossibly small areas without submerging or immersing the part in solvent and/or water.

Fwiw, I have NEVER washed anything electrical with water, I don't care if it's unplugged and you let it it air-dry for two years before reinstalling it. They make products to clean electrical motors every day.

 

[snrusnak]

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