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cylinder gasket

Buellxb Forum

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fishxb12

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2012
Messages
882
Sorry to make another post on this. I pulled my front head to have repaired. Do I need to replace the cylinder base gasket since I took the pressure off of it when I took the head off? Really dont want to pull the jug unless I have to. The guy also wants to do a valve job on both heads for me. Is it worth pulling the rear head just for a valve job with 12K on the bike? I am buying a top end gasket kit, so I will have everything, but I want to tear my motor down as least as possible. Thanks for any input.
 
Ok, so I went ahead and pulled the rear head also so I could get a valve job on both heads. If I pull the jugs to replace the base gaskets, whats the best way to pull them? should I leave the pistons inside the jug and pull the wrist pin? If I pull the pistons, do I need to re hone the cylinders and put new rings in? The cylinder walls look new, still see the cross hatches in them. If I leave the pistons in the cylinders, l think I will be good. If I put new rings in, do I have to re hone the cylinders? I feel like I am rebuilding my motor with only 12k on it.
 
Pull the wrist pin, leave piston in jug. Clean everything up nice, (mating surfaces), put it back together. NO need for new rings, honing, etc. :)
 
If you remove the pistons from the bore I would do new rings and a light hone, nothing to change the size of the bore. If you leave the pistons in the cylinder and remove the wrist pin you should be fine.
First time (leaking base gasket) I took engine apart I did new rings and hone. Second time (trans output bearing problem) I just removed the wrist pins.

You will struggle getting the factory gasket scraped cleanly off of the bottom of the jug. I used a lot of permatex gasket remover. soak scrape repeat. Then I brought the cylinders to a shop and had them cleaned up. The guy had some kind of block plate for dressing the gasket surface. I've heard a nylon brush in a dremel can help but I didn't try that method. Don't use any type of abrasive tools on it as you will create a low spot. Rebuild with steel gaskets and you will never have to scrape one again. They also wont blow out. For that reason Id do the rear too. It will suck if you get this back together and two months from now your rear base gasket starts to leak. Its fairly common, but it's your call. I wouldn't criticize you either way.
 
Thanks for input. I figured wrist pins were the way to go. If my bike had higher miles, I would do rings and hone. What's the easiest way to clean the black build up off the top of the pistons without getting crap inside the cylinder? Is there any trick to pulling the wrist pins? First time doing this, I do have a manual though.
 
I am sure that probably takes a special tool, huh? I havent started to pull jugs yet. I actually got a couple pieces of 1/2 inch pvc pipe as spacers and put 2 of the head bolts back in to keep pressure on the base gaksets till I decided if I wanted to change them out or not.
 
Cool, of course the manual shows some special tool. My cometic gasket set should here this week, just dropped off my head for repair, she will be ready by spring!
 
The base gasket is not an option on the head you took off. Unless you really like putting your bike together and taking it apart.
 
I figured that. I am going to pull the wrist pin and leave the piston in the cylinder so I don't have to hone or put new rings in and then change out the base gasket. Should I worry all the build up on top of the piston? If I try to clean will all that crud fall into the cylinder and hurt anything or should I just leave it be. It ran great before, that's my theory.
 
Roll the pistons up to the top of the jugs and clean the carbon of them use a little solvent after you have them as clean as you can get them, to break any oil residue in the groove above the rings and an air gun to blow any crumbies from the ring gap.
 
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