midway
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2016
- Messages
- 363
I need to properly adjust the damper rod as some ne'er-do-well service tech or previous owner put the full range of adjustment out when last reassembled. This is the area you skip in the service manual if the damper lock nut as never been tampered with... well it's been tampered with. So I get to go all the way down this rabbit hole and thought I would share some things I see and learn along the way. Keep an eye on me please, I don't want to screw this up. New seals will also be installed.
Tearing down the forks is a snap, we can all do that per the SM. Removing the center bolt from the bottom of the fork slider lets the whole rebound assembly slide out (something you don't need to do if only replacing seals) However sludge is found on the lower end of the damper rod assembly. You'll never see it if you don't go all the way... see image.
Not real happy with how the SM describes making the actual (damper range of motion adjustment) but perhaps it will be obvious.
SM reads like this;
Damper Rod Assembly
1. Fully thread the damper rod lock nut onto damper rod clockwise until it lightly bottoms.
2. Adjust rebound assembly for proper range of motion.
a. Lightly turn the rebound adjuster screw on top of the
rebound adjuster assembly counterclockwise until it stops.
b. Turn the rebound adjuster screw three full turns
clockwise.
3. Fully thread rebound adjuster assembly onto the
damper rod assembly until it lightly bottoms. Do not
tighten.
4. Thread the damper lock nut until bottoms lightly on
the rebound adjuster assembly. Do not tighten.
5. Turning the rebound adjuster screw counterclockwise
three full turns or until stops.
6. Tighten the damper lock nut to 22-30 ft-lbs (30-40 Nm).
7. Repeat for other fork assembly exactly the same.
At this point in the thread everything will be flushed out, cleaned and inspected as I'm waiting on a 43mm fork seal driver. I won't be using the bullet tool as you guys seem to prefer seran wrap to slip new seals over the sharp edges.
Tearing down the forks is a snap, we can all do that per the SM. Removing the center bolt from the bottom of the fork slider lets the whole rebound assembly slide out (something you don't need to do if only replacing seals) However sludge is found on the lower end of the damper rod assembly. You'll never see it if you don't go all the way... see image.
Not real happy with how the SM describes making the actual (damper range of motion adjustment) but perhaps it will be obvious.
SM reads like this;
Damper Rod Assembly
1. Fully thread the damper rod lock nut onto damper rod clockwise until it lightly bottoms.
2. Adjust rebound assembly for proper range of motion.
a. Lightly turn the rebound adjuster screw on top of the
rebound adjuster assembly counterclockwise until it stops.
b. Turn the rebound adjuster screw three full turns
clockwise.
3. Fully thread rebound adjuster assembly onto the
damper rod assembly until it lightly bottoms. Do not
tighten.
4. Thread the damper lock nut until bottoms lightly on
the rebound adjuster assembly. Do not tighten.
5. Turning the rebound adjuster screw counterclockwise
three full turns or until stops.
6. Tighten the damper lock nut to 22-30 ft-lbs (30-40 Nm).
7. Repeat for other fork assembly exactly the same.
At this point in the thread everything will be flushed out, cleaned and inspected as I'm waiting on a 43mm fork seal driver. I won't be using the bullet tool as you guys seem to prefer seran wrap to slip new seals over the sharp edges.