DYI Fork Seals ...

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ulyboy

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Mar 24, 2009
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I'm fed up with relying on the shop to do my forks. Too much $$ to replace my seals when they go. So, I've bought the seals, fork oil, and oil measuring tool to do the job myself. Question: Can I get around buying the fork tube holder tool? I've already tried making the one out of a wood clamp. Broke during the first try, and I thought I made it better than the guy on the web did. I'm thinking of making a better one out of heavier metal strapping bars next. I just can't see buying something so seemingly simple to make.

Also, it really seems the fork cap is pretty tight - can't get it off, which is why I'm stressing about the tube holder. I've read places that it shouldn't be torqued down very much. Thoughts anyone??

-UB
 
why not just use the triple trees to hole the fork and loosen the cap while on and then remove the fork.
 
Confession: I don't have a specific fork cap wrench, so I've been trying to use an adjustable. This particular wrench doesn't fit on the cap because the handlebars get in the way. I guess if I'm going to save money in the long run, I'll have to get the proper tool. Anyone know what size fork cap wrench is used on the Uly?

-UB
 
Drop the tube so it is only in the lower triple clamp and buy a wrench that fits the cap. The cresent wrench will round off the cap real fast.
 
or buy the socket. might be cheaper.
and no, i don't know the size off-hand. sorry. got a ruler?
 
I have a feeling it's 46 or 50mm, since looking-up "Showa Fork Cap Wrench" on Google returns a bunch of the two-headed wrenches with these sizes on it. Mine's probably the 46mm, since the later models have the larger tubes. I think I'll buy one and try it out using the "in-the-trees" loosening technique.

A socket of this size would require the dreaded fork tube holder!

Thanks guys, for the input!

-UB
 
Cresent wrenches should be banned from existance.....

~Mike.........

No way there great for bending stuff , O and as Weapons no one ***** with a guy with an 18'' adjustable , haha . seriously they have there place ... stranded on the side of the road is one
 
dude fork seals on my buell go out about every 10k so i use a feeler gauge but they are simple to change they come apart easy and go back together easy filling with oil is the hardest part you don't even need speical tools
 
Hello, I am doing a set of fork seals now on my 09 XB12R, I have gotten the fork in a wooden vise and cap loosened. But since this is the first set I have done I am not confident on the spring tension behind the cap or even how far the cap comes out before I can expect the release of spring pressure. Can someone give me an idea of how much force the spring will have behind it. (all ready dialed down all the preload I can). Also does anyone know about how far the cap comes out before the release? Pics would be excellent if anyone has them (probably not i expect). Thanks in advance.
 
Zombie thread! Mwahahaha...

Make sure you have the small snap ring off the re-bound adjuster (blue thing) so you can take the preload nut completely off.

The cap has very fine threads and will unscrew less than 1/2" or so. Keep slight pressure with your hand above the cap (on the back of the ratchet or wrench) so it doesn't shoot off and get lost in the shop, but it won't be very hard at all, maybe an inch of free spring play?

You can push it together by hand on re-assembly.

Note: Follow the specific instructions in the manual regarding the re-bound setting (long pointy thing that screws to the blue thing) when you re-assemble them. Once you are done you'll go "Wow! That was easy!"
 
Last edited:
Fanstastic, thanks. Its a start. There do seem to be differences like removing the preload adjuster, mine seems integrated and about 1/4 the size outside the fork. But nevertheless, vids are great
 
Last edited:
Cooter said:
Zombie thread! Mwahahaha...

Make sure you have the small snap ring off the re-bound adjuster (blue thing) so you can take the preload nut completely off.

The cap has very fine threads and will unscrew less than 1/2" or so. Keep slight pressure with your hand above the cap (on the back of the ratchet or wrench) so it doesn't shoot off and get lost in the shop, but it won't be very hard at all, maybe an inch of free spring play?

You can push it together by hand on re-assembly.

Note: Follow the specific instructions in the manual regarding the re-bound setting (long pointy thing that screws to the blue thing) when you re-assemble them. Once you are done you'll go "Wow! That was easy!"
Click to expand...

And what specific instruction is there for an 09 XB12R? I do not see anything in my owners manual and I do no have a service manual. Copy paste please if anyone has this info.
 
Im going to take pics and post them here
as well as an alternative method of overcoming the spring that seems good.
 

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